AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2009 Multiple copies available (American Alpine Club 2009 Journal)

	Item #: AAJ2009-2336 AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 2009 Multiple copies available By American Alpine Club 2009 Journal Price: $25.00 List Price: $35.00 You Save $10.00 (29%) Add to wish list Click Here For Related Selections
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AAC, Golden, CO, 2009. 295 pp, many color & b/w photos, maps. The 2009 American Alpine Journal Volume 51 Issue 83 is now in stock. * The American Alpine Journal is the reference source for everyone planning anything new in the mountains or venturing into remote ranges. * Nearly 150 pages of exciting stories about the most important climbs of the year, as told by the climbers themselves, and reviews of the best climbing books of the year. * Nearly 250 pages of short reports from new routes in the world's mountains In this year's American Alpine Journal, Chad Kellogg finds closure on a Chinese mountain with bitter memories; Mike Libecki surveys a wild region of unclimbed walls in Greenland; Katsutaka Yokoyama and the Giri-Giri Boys introduce enchainment to North America's highest mountain; Paul Knott and Bruce Normand lift the veil from unclimbed summits of the Chinese Tien-Shan range; a Japanese pair succeeds on the much-eyed southeast face of Kamet, the third-highest peak in India; and Valery Babanov recounts his two new routes on 8,000-meter peaks in a single season. Plus more from Baffin Island, Patagonia, and summits between. Table of contents: 16 Samurai Direct, by Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi. The first ascent of the southeast face of Kamet in India. 24 Pachinko on Denali, by Katsutaka Yokoyama. The Giri-Giri Boys make the Big One even bigger. 32 Bushido, by Yusuke Sato. The first ascent of the complete north face of Kalanka in India. 38 Return to Siguniang, by Chad Kellogg. 72-pitch new route in China concludes a story of obsession and redemption. 47 Untapped Potential, by Paul Knott and Bruce ormand. Exploring the Chinese Central Tien Shan. 8 Checkmate, by Ueli Steck . change in strategy brings success on the northwest face of Tengkangpoche in Nepal. 64 Karakoram Doubleheader, by Valery Babanov. Broad and Hidden peaks: Two new routes in less than four weeks. 72 Roar of the Wind, by Simone Moro. The first winter ascent of Makalu. 78 Take the Long Way Home, by Stefan Glowacz. The first climb in Baffin Island�s super-remote Buchan Gulf. 86 The End of the Affair, by Mike Libecki. First-ascent potential in southeastern Greenland. 9 Risky Business on San Lorenzo, by Jordi Corominas single-push new route on Patagonia�s second-highest peak. 100 Another Level, by Maria Coffey. Explorers of the Infinite asks a basic question: Why? 106 Contiguous United States 126 Alaska 14 Canada 1 4 Greenland 177 Mexico 178 Peru 183 Venezuela, Brazil, Bolivia 194 Argentina & Chile 21 Antarctica 220 Middle East (Turkey, Oman) 223 Africa (Morocco, Madagascar) 226 orway 236 CIS: Russia, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan 2 4 Afghanistan 260 Pakistan 286 India 316 Nepal 348 China 3 6 Tibet 3 9 Australasia (Irian Jaya) 361 AAC Grants 363 Book Reviews, edited by David Stevenson: New books by Majka Burhardt & Gabe Rogel, Andy Cave, Elizabeth & Nicholas Clinch, Maria Coffey, Lincoln Hall, Nick Heil, Michael Kodas, Tomaz Humar, Maurice Isserman & Stewart Weaver, Jennifer Lowe- nker, and Stephen Venables. 376 In Memoriam, edited by Cameron M. Burns Remembering Theodore H. (Ted) Church, Pavle Kozjek, lan Nelson, Bill Stall, and Gene F. White. 383 Club Activities, edited by Fred Johnson 389 Index 399 Grade Comparison Chart PREFACE After a year in rehab, the Piolet d�Or�the �golden ice axe� prize in world alpinism � reinvented itself as the Piolets d�Or. In case you missed it, the change is an �s,� which in French makes a word plural. The editors of the AAJ were among the many voices disapproving of the original Piolet d�Or because judges picked a single �winner� from the year�s climbs. We feel that climbing, and especially climbing mountains, is a deeply personal pursuit; we like to see it driven by private goals and a love of the mountain environment. And we look to climbing events and media for inspiration that helps to keep our minds in the clouds even when we�re sitting at our desks. From our perspective, a high-visibility event like the Piolet d�Or should celebrate our shared passions, not promote a competitive spirit. When Marko Prezelj used the stage to turn down a Piolet d�Or that had been offered him (for his new route on Chomolhari�see J 2007, cover and p. 14), the controversy went pub-lic. As the rhetoric boiled over, the organizers, spearheaded by Montagnes magazine, decided it was time for a re-think. They reached out widely, including to the J, and drafted a new charter recasting the event as a celebration rather than a competition. But not everyone was convinced, and so in January 2008, shortly before the 17th annual Piolet d�Or ceremony was to take place, the award was suspended. Now please welcome the Piolets d�Or. In the words of Doug Scott, president of this year�s international jury, �This edition signals the rebirth of the Piolet d�Or. For us there are no winners, no losers. The honored are the ambassadors of an art, a passion.� The new awards �aim to celebrate the taste for adventure and sense of exploration that lie behind the art of climbing in the world�s great mountain ranges.� Criteria include style, exploratory spirit, commitment, respect for objective dangers, respect for people on and off the team, respect for the environment, and respect for the needs of future generations who will tread these hills. A lot of respect. Because these are things we all hold dear, the J�s editors support the Piolets d�Or organizers� efforts to live up to these ideals. Not only is the J the world�s reference for new mountain routes, we�ve long chosen our feature articles by informal criteria much akin to the Piolets d�Or�s new charter. We provided the jury with extensive information about climbs in 2008, a role we�ll likely continue as long as the Piolets d�Or is more celebration than competition. The ceremony last April�honoring 2008 climbs�was a great initial effort. Our associate editor Dougald MacDonald traveled to France to observe. He saw that the French love alpinism, and they know how to throw a party. Walter Bonatti earned a golden axe for lifetime achievement, and three teams took home axes for their ascents: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi on the southwest face of Kamet in India; Kazauki Amano, Fumitaka Ichimura, and Yusuke Sato on the north face of Kalanka, also in India; and Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck on the north face of Tengkangpoche, Nepal. All three ascents are featured in the following pages. There you�ll see why they deserve praise and attention. But, were their climbs somehow �better� than the other ascents covered in these pages? Only if they had more fun�and left the mountain clean and earned friendship from those they met along their journey. These are goals that inspire us all. JOHN HARLIN III
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