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THE MATTERHORN EDWARD WHYMPER by T.G. Bonney in British Weekly Periodical Once A Week August 1865
By Bonney, T.G.
Price: $75.00


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August 1865, London, Bradbury & Evans, 1st edition. A complete issue of a British Weekly Periodical called Once A Week that contains an article by the noted Mountaineer and Geologist T.G. Bonney, reporting on Whymper's first ascent of the Matterhorn, and the tragedy of 4 people falling to their deaths on the descent, only a few weeks after the climb on July 14, 1865.
 
This is a complete issue of Once a Week, in original condition with publisher's blue printed wrappers, and containing the ads. Spine sparse, wrappers chipped, otherwise in Very Good Condition. The above mentioned account, found within this issue is 4 pages in length including a sketch illustration.
 
In 1865 there was already telegraphic communication between Europe and England, although the cable to the USA was still several years away, so news was spread across Europe as fast in 1865 as today! But to get the news into every home, periodicals like this one plus daily newspapers were in keen competition to report the latest news, and as this was the final climb of the 'golden Age' when all the major peaks of the Alps were climbed, the whole population of the UK was following Whymper's race against Tyndall for the Matterhorn first ascent.
 
Edward Whymper (1840-1911), was a British illustrator, climber and explorer best known for the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865. On the descent four members of the party were killed.

Professor John Tyndall and Whymper emulated each other in determined attempts to reach the summit of the Matterhorn by the south-western, or Italian, ridge. In 1865 Whymper, who had failed eight times already, attempted unsuccessfully to climb a couloir on the south-east face with Michel Croz. After Croz left for a prior engagement with Charles Hudson, Whymper was unable to secure the services of Val Tournanche guide Jean Antoine Carrel, and instead planned on trying the eastern face with Lord Francis Douglas and the two Zermatt guides, Peter Taugwalder father and son.

Whymper was convinced that its precipitous appearance when viewed from Zermatt was an optical illusion, and that the dip of the strata, which on the Italian side formed a continuous series of overhangs, should make the opposite side a natural staircase. This party of four was joined by Hudson and Croz, and the inexperienced Douglas Hadow. Their attempt by what is now the normal route, the Hörnli ridge, finally met with success on 14 July 1865, only days before an Italian party. On the descent, four members of the party (Croz, Douglas, Hadow and Hudson) slipped and were killed, the rope between them and the three surviving members of the party snapping as they slid.

In the early 1900s, Wympher visited the Canadian Rockies several times and in 1901, he and his four guides made the first ascents of Mount Whymper and Stanley Peak in the Vermillion Pass.


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