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Item #: BK1246-297
STARLIGHT AND STORM Gaston Rebuffat 1999 New Paperback
By Rebuffat, Gaston
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1999 [1954]. 214 pp, photos. New paperback.

This classic by the great Rebuffat recounts the awe and beauty of being the first to climb all six of the great Alpine North Faces: Eiger, Matterhorn, Dru, Cima Grande, Piz Badile, Grandes Jorasses. Rebuffat's books expressed the love that he had for the mountains, and even today are in inspiration for climbers and mountain lovers. This book was one of the first that compiled a list of great climbs to do, and these six north faces have become a goal for many great climbers, perhaps most recently Alison Hargreaves who climbed them all in one season. 

From the 1920s to the 1950s, the race was on in Europe to score first ascents of the most formidable routes in the Alps and Dolomites. Buoyed by the advent of artificial climbing techniques (primarily the use of pitons), teams from France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and Poland scaled the north faces of the Eiger, the Drus, the Matterhorn, the Grandes Jorasses, and other hallowed peaks, often pooling resources to obtain previously unimaginable success (and often tragedy), while the world below was ravaged by two brutal world wars.

Noted French climbing guide Gaston Rébuffat lived at the center of this crucial era in mountaineering history. Starlight and Storm, first published in French in 1954 as Étoiles et Tempêtes, is his personal account of a rugged and glorious time before Gore-Tex, when men, soaked and chilled to the bone, sang to keep each other from falling asleep (forever) during exposed bivouacs in sub-zero degree snowstorms. Rébuffat's love of the climber's life is evident with each turn of the page


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