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WHERE THERE'S A WILL THERE'S A WAY: AN ASCENT OF MONT BLANC BY A NEW ROUTE AND WITHOUT GUIDES Hudson, Charles and Edward Shirley Kennedy New Paperback 2 Copies Available
By Hudson, Charles and Edward Shirley Kennedy
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MODERN REPRINT. Longman, London 1856 [First edition]. 143 pp. Charles Hudson and Edward .Kennedy were among the pioneers of guideless climbing. Hudson, in particular, was considered to be one of the most daring climbers of the Golden Age of Alpine Climbing (1850-1865). New paperback.
 
Wikipedia:
Eward Shirley Kennedy (usually known as E. S. Kennedy) (1817 – 1898) was an English mountaineer and author, and a founding member of the Alpine Club.

During an ascent of the Finsteraarhorn on 13 August 1857, Kennedy discussed the formation of a national mountaineering club with William Mathews, who had corresponded with F. J. A. Hort about the idea in February 1857. At the end of that year, Kennedy was chairman of the meeting at which the Alpine Club was founded (the meeting was attended by twenty of the leading British alpinists of the day, and was held at Ashley's Hotel in London on 22 December 1857). Kennedy was made vice-president, with John Ball as president. Kennedy served as President of the Club between 1860 and 1863.

In 1854 Kennedy attempted the unclimbed Dom – the highest mountain entirely within Switzerland – with Saas-Feepriest and hotel owner Abbé Joseph Imseng and two Swiss guides, but the guides were unwilling to tackle a particularly tricky passage, although both Kennedy and Imseng were happy to continue. Together with Charles Hudson, Kennedy was one of the earliest practitioners of climbing without guides in the Alps, climbing Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Blanc (by a new route) in guideless parties.

Kennedy was the editor of the second series of Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers(1862). Like the first series (1858), this was a collection of papers (in two volumes) published by the Alpine Club; these were theforerunners of the Alpine Journal, which first appeared in 1863.  Kennedy was also active in discussions concerning modification to the traditional ice axe, proposing a design based on the American backwoodsman's axe.

Carles Hudson (4 October 1828 – 14 July 1865) was an Anglican chaplain and mountain climber from Skillington, Lincolnshire.

Hudson was one of the most important climbers of the golden age of alpinism. An immensely strong walker, he is considered a pioneer of guideless and winter climbing in the western Alps, having made the first guideless ascent of Mont Blanc in 1855, the first official ascent of Mont Blanc du Tacul with Edward John Stevenson, Christopher and James Grenville Smith, E. S. Kennedy, Charles Ainslie and G. C. Joad on 5 August 1855, a guideless ascent of the Breithorn and a near ascent of the Aiguille du Goûter solo in winter, being forced back close to the summit by fresh snow. Amongst his guided climbs were the first ascent of the Dufourspitze in 1855, the first completed passage of the Mönchjoch in 1858, the first ascent of Mont Blanc by the Goûter route (incomplete) in 1859 with E. S. Kennedy and party, and the second ascent of the Aiguille Verte (the first by the Moine ridge) in 1865 (with T. S. Kennedy and Michel Croz).

Matterhorn accident:
During the first ascent of the Matterhorn on 14 July 1865 Hudson was killed in the notorious accident during the descent. Edward Whymper was planning to climb the mountain with Lord Francis Douglas, when he heard that Hudson (together with Michel Croz) had the same objective.

Whymper wrote: "Lord Francis Douglas and I dined at the Monte Rosa hotel, and had just finished when Mr. Hudson and a friend entered the salle à manger. They had returned from inspecting the mountain and some idlers in the room demanded their intentions. We heard a confirmation of Croz's statement, and learned that Mr. Hudson intended to set off on the morrow at the same hour as ourselves. We left the room to consult, and agreed that it was undesirable for two independent parties to be on the same mountain at the same time with the same object. Mr. Hudson was therefore invited to join us, and he accepted our proposal. Before admitting his friend Mr. Hadow, I took the precaution of asking what he had done in the Alps, and, as well as I remember, Mr. Hudson's reply was, 'Mr. Hadow has done Mont Blanc in less time than most men.'"

The accident occurred because Hadow slipped on the descent not far from the summit, pulling Croz, Hudson and Douglas down the north face of the mountain; the rope between these four and the other three members of the party (Whymper and the two Zermatt guides named Peter Taugwalder, father and son), snapped, saving them from the same fate. Some have blamed Hudson for insisting on the presence of the inexperienced Hadow in the party, and for not checking the quality of the rope or the boots Hadow was wearing. Hudson's body was retrieved from the Matterhorn glacier and was buried in the Zermatt churchyard.

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