The sandstone towers of the Colorado Plateau offer airy summits in a setting of unrivaled natural beauty. There is nothing as aesthetic as a slender sliver of chocolate sandstone and nothing as exhilarating as standing atop it. In the desert, summit glory comes easy. While mountaineers have to slog up 10,000-foot snowfields to get that glory, desert climbers jam up a couple of hundred feet of rock. Not a bad deal.

That said, sandstone climbing is not for everyone. Few tower routes are easier than 5.10 and the rock is soft and can resemble dried mud. The continuous parallel cracks require unfamiliar strenuous techniques; and you have to borrow gear from all your friends to find a rack big enough to climb safely.

Desert Towers Climbing Skills
Most of these towers are on Wingate sandstone. This rock is solid, for sandstone, but still potentially hazardous. Don't pull out on flakes, especially if it has rained or snowed recently. It is best to wait a day after a storm as the rock is weaker when wet. Watch for loose blocks in cracks and on ledges. Face holds may be rounded or sandy, and take some getting used to. Solid crack climbing skills are necessary. The cracks are generally vertical, have poor rests, and few face holds. The leader needs extra endurance to hang out in strenuous positions in order to place gear at least every 6 feet. Most climbers use athletic tape to protect their hands from abrasion.

Gear and Equipment
Sandstone cracks are mostly parallel-sided, which means they accept cams and often reject nuts and hexes. Although it's tempting to run it out to save strength, protection has been known to pull out of this rock, even from textbook placements. Be conservative, and borrow or buy enough gear so you can protect adequately. A basic tower rack is two-three sets of cams, from sub-finger to fist size, a set of wired nuts, and many slings. Each SuperTopo notes where other gear is needed. Two 50-meter or 60-meter ropes are standard for rappels. Always back up every anchor, including bolted anchors. While most of the classic desert climbs have good bolts, there is no such thing as an absolutely bomber bolt or cam in sandstone. Be cautious.