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NINE ATOP EVEREST: THE FIRST INDIAN ASCENT Kohli 2000
By Kohli, M.S.
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Due March 2008. India, 2000, 2nd edition. 236 pp, 26 photos. The ascent of Everest always makes a dramatic story; but when the Indian Expedition of 1965 put nine members atop the summit, the event made headlines around the world.

'In this book Capt. M.S. Kohli, the leader of the expedition, gives a first-hand account of the spectacular climb. It is the story of how the team took on the formidable task, from the birth of the idea and organising the expedition to battling the impossible odds on the treacherous slopes of the Himalaya, and leading to the unbelievable climax of four successive teams reaching the summit. Hardcover, DJ, New.

'The book exudes an air of intense excitement and a sense of challenge that characterised the whole expedition. It is a story of superb mountaineering skills, admirable team work and rare indomitable courage.' 

Contents: Preface. Introduction. 1. They have done it. 2. The offer. 3. Rathong. 4. Preparations. 5. Jaynagar. 6. On the March. 7. Thyangboche. 8. Ice-fall. 9. Western Cwm. 10. Lhotse face. 11. South Col Part I. 12. South Col Part II. 13. Forced rest. 14. The summit. 15. Summit again. 16. The hat trick. 17. Drama below. 18. The grand Slam. 19. Farewell. Appendices: 1. Diary of events. 2. Who's who. Index.
 
Internationally renowned mountaineer, Captain M.S. Kohli, belongs to the exclusive band of three climbers in the world who in 1962 spent three nights at 27,650 feet on Everest, two without oxygen. He led the first successful Indian Expedition to Mount Everest in 1965 which put nine climbers on the summit. He climbed nanda Kot (22,510 feet) in 1959 and made the maiden ascent of highly challenging Annapurna III (24, 858 feet) in 1961 after high-altitude bandits had looted the Base Camp, taking two team members as hostages. From 1965 to 1968 he led the world's longest and highly sensitive Indo-American expedition to Nanda Devi and Nanda Kot.

He was closely associated with the Indian Mountaineering Foundation for 14 years, 10 years as Vice-President and 4 years as President. He developed the Indo-Tibetan Border Police into a formidable mountaineering organisation with a tally of over 100 Himalayan summits. In 1977, he joined Sir Edmund Hillary in 'From the Ocean to the Sky', jet-boat expedition from Bay of Bengal to the source of Ganges, which heralded white-water rafting in India. On October 14, 1989, in consultation with Sir Edmund Hillary he founded the Himalayan Environment Trust to save the Himalayas for future generations.
Padma Bhushn and Arjuna awardee, Captain Kohli was born on 11 December, 1931 at Haripur in the hilly Hazara district of North-West Frontier. He has authored 20 books. On 8 September, 1965, he was given the rare honour of addressing Members of both the Houses of Indian Parliament.

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