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Item #: H48
DOLT HANDMADE STOVELEG PITON FROM 1957
By Â
[ SOLD ]
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Detailed Product Description
This is an original
stoveleg steel piton hand made by William Feuerer, also
called Bill Dolt (or Doldt) that was created in 1957 for the attempted ascents of the Nose of El Capitan, the first major route climbed on El Capitan.
The cracks on the route in one area varied from 2' to 3', larger than had been encountered before, and new technology was needed to climb up such a wide cracks. According to Roper's history, 'Camp 4', The stoveleg pitons used by Harding in 1958 were made by Frank Tarver, but on page 70 he clearly says that Dolt made stoveleg pitons for use on the Nose.
This is the story, partly from the Internet:
'
Today, climbers tend to associate The Nose with Warren Harding, who undoubtedly was the driving force behind the climb: the route is, indeed, his masterpiece. However, Harding had numerous companions on the venture, most notably Mark Powell and Bill (Dolt) Feuerer in the beginning and Wayne Merry and George Whitmore at the end.
Aced out of the first ascent of Half Dome in July of 1957, Harding, Powell, and Feuerer began a siege (of the Nose of El Capitan) that continued until November of 1958. Powell was injured on a simple climb, and unable to continue climbing at his previously high standard he slowly dropped out of the climb. Feuerer developed other interests too, leaving Harding to con whomever he could into belaying or portering. The route was the work of many people, but it had been planned from the start by the original three, Harding, Powell and Feuerer.'
The steel pins look like long, heavy 2' angle pitons, welded at the eye end, and heavy as hell. (We had only three of these Stoveleg Pitons. One was signed by Royal Robbins and we sold it). We have one left that is unsigned, and we donated the third to Reinhold Messner's Mountaineering Museum in Italy.
The only other Stoveleg pitons I know of are the ones in the Yosemite Museum.
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