Seattle, 1999 [1978]. 276 pp, b/w and color photos. New paperback.
One of the greatest Himalayan climbs ever; Messner's and Habeler's first Everest ascent without oxygen. In May 1978 Reinhold Messner became the first man in history to climb Mount Everest without the use of artificial oxygen.
In this book he tells how he and his long time associate Peter Habeler managed to accomplish what had previously been considered impossible, and how it felt.
He combines technical information about all facets of mountaineering with spectacular photographs and a compelling text to convey to readers the exhaustion, exhilaration, and despair of climbing. Messner tells of the dangers of the Khumbu icefield, the extremely difficult Lhotse flank, two lonely storm filled nights at 26,247 feet, and finally the summit. In addition the book includes a summary of 25 years of Everest climbs, recounting the debates in the early years over the use of artificial oxygen.
