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Item #: BK440-457
GLENN EXUM: NEVER A BAD WORD OR TWISTED ROPE Charlie Craighead 1998 1st ed Paperback SIGNED by Glenn Exum
By Exum, Glenn and Charlie Craighead
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SIGNED on the half title page by Glenn Exum.

Wyoming, 1998 1st edition. 131 pp, many b/w and color photos. Large Paperback, Near Fine condition.

Exum did many Teton first ascents and ran the world famous Teton Guide Service.

If you love the Tetons of Wyoming or have ever climbed with Exum Guides, then you'll enjoy this book. Filled with wonderful photos from a by-gone period of Teton climbing (when you just tied in around your waist) and funny stories from one of the men who created Teton climbing, this book will make you chuckle and impress you with the simple humor and ease of Glenn Exum. If you're looking for a detailed story of the early years of Teton climbing, this is not the book for you. It gives you a view through Exum's own eyes, but that's pretty interesting. It's worth the cost just for the photos alone!

The Grand Tetons from Wikipedia:

Grand Teton is the highest mountain within Grand Teton National Park, and the second highest in the U.S. state of Wyoming (after Gannet Peak in the Wind River Range). The origin of the name is controversial. The most common explanation is that 'Grand Teton' means 'large teat' in French, named by either French-Canadian or Iroquois members of an expedition led by Donald McKenzie of the Northwest Company. However, other historians disagree, and claim that the was named after the Teton Sioux tribe of Native Americans.

There is a controversy over who made the first ascent of Grand Teton. Nathaniel Langford and James Stevenson claimed to reach the summit on July 29, 1872. However, their description and sketches match the summit of The Enclosure, a side peak of Grand Teton. The Enclosure is named after a man-made palisade of rocks on its summit, probably constructed by Native Americans. When William O. Owen climbed the true summit, he found no trace of prior human passage. Therefore, The Enclosure was probably first climbed by Native Americans, and the true summit was first climbed by William Owen.

Grand Teton can be climbed with minimal gear via the Owen-Spalding route (5.5). However, it is highly exposed and experience is recommended. The Owen-Spalding route is named after the climbers who made the first claimed ascent: William Owen, Franklin Spalding, Frank Peterson and John Shive. There is some debate as to which person made the first ascent; however most agree this group was the first. Their route begins at the Upper Saddle which is reached by walking from Lupine Meadows Trailhead, up Garnet Canyon, to the Lower Saddle.

Another famous route up the mountain is the Exum Ridge route (5.6), a 13-pitch exposed route first climbed by Glenn Exum, co-founder of Exum Mountain Guides. This route, too, can be found on the southern face of the mountain. The Owen-Spalding and Exum Ridge routes can be climbed from the base of the mountain at Lupine Meadows in one long day but the average person takes two days (a permit is required for an overnight stay in the backcountry). Routes up the north face are more difficult but famous in the climbing world.

The Grand Teton can also be skied in the winter. The first descent on skis was made by Bill Briggs in the spring of 1971; a route on the Owen-Spalding is now named in his honor.



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