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Item #: OP284B-8302
THE CLIMB: TRAGIC AMBITIONS ON EVEREST Anatoli Boukreev 1997 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine Multiple copies available
By Boukreev, Anatoli and G. Weston Dewalt
Price: $19.99


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New York, 1997, 1st edition. 256 pp, color photos, maps. Hardcover with dust jacket. Fine-New.

Boukreev was a guide on Everest in May 1996, during the events described in Into Thin Air. He saved three lives in that terrible storm, but endured criticism, and died in 1997 on Annapurna. 

This is a first-person account of the tragic climbing experience in May 1996 on Mount Everest that left eight climbers dead and several others struggling to stay alive. Boukreev, a top-rated high-altitude climber originally from the Soviet Union, uses notes and memories recorded only five days after the tragic events to tell what happened on the world's highest mountain.
 
He writes partly in response to other best-selling accounts (e.g., Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air). From the first chapter, as members of the ill-fated group met and organized for the climb, to the last chapter, which raises questions still unanswered, is a detailed, day-by-day description of this chilling tale. Fast-paced and easy to read, Boukreev's story of adventure and survival will remain in the reader's memory long after the book is finished.

No storm could be as devastating as that in May 10, 1996 on Everest that robbed eight climbers of their lives. However a ferocious literary storm was unleashed when the survivors and spectators of the disaster began to publish their testimony

When Jon Krakauer published his superb account Into Thin Air, some read into it a possible suggestion that Anatoli Boukreev, the lead guide on Scott Fischer’s expedition, had forfeited the safety of his clients to add to his already considerable climbing achievements and had also not acted like a proper guide e.g., descending to Camp IV before his clients.

Boukreev resented this and so in January 1997, Boukreev gave his expedition logs, personal journals, letters and memories to investigative writer Gary Weston DeWalt. G. Weston DeWalt also used taped statements from the surviving climbers and translated interviews from Boukreev to piece together the events. All this information was collected together to produce the book now being offered The Climb.

The overall effect was to demonstrate that Boukreev's role was heroic, not opportunistic. Initially when it first came out there was a suggestion that the purpose of the book was to salve Boukreev’s conscience whereas now it is genuinely recognized that Boukreev performed a truly heroic role and his superhuman efforts saved lives. The result is a detailed, day-by-day description of a disaster as it happened.

Sadly, Boukreev did not live long to enjoy the restoration of his reputation. In the winter of 1997, Boukreev was attempting to climb the south face of Annapurna I when he was swept to his death in an avalanche.


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