Kamet lies in the northern part of Uttarakhand in Garhwal, the tallest and mightiest of a group of four high mountains – Abi Gamin, Mukut Parbat, Mana Peak and Kamet itself. A climb of Kamet by its western flank was first attempted by Capt Slingsby in 1913.
The numerous subsequent efforts concentrated mainly on its eastern approach and the first success was achieved in 1931 by an expedition led by the late Frank Smythe. Incidentally, it was after their success on Kamet that Smythe and his companions stumbled upon the Bhyundar Valley and their accounts of its floral wonders led to their accounts of its floral wonders led to its popularity as the Valley of Flowers.
Practically all subsequent attempts on Kamet followed the route taken by Frank Smythe. On the other hand, the mountain’s western route, the highest unclimbed route on any Indian mountain, remained untouched for 70 years until Col Kumar’s Kumaon Regiment team decided to make an attempt in 1983. From the beginning the Kumaonis encountered unusual odds. Inclement weather, problems of transportation, death of a team member due to non-acclimatisation, all hampered their progress.
Yet progress was made-inch by inch, foot by foot, through avalanche and landslide, blinding snow and blizzard and the summit was climbed from the eastern route. The team also climbed Abi Gamin and made a daring ski descent from just below the summit. On the western side, though the Kumaonis failed in forcing a route to the top, their attempt on the 6000-foot sheer North-West Face of Kamet has uncovered an exciting and exacting challenge for mountaineers.
The ever-fascinating encounter between man and mountain is revealed in this book in vivid detail with all its trials and tribulations, triumphs and failures, agonies and ecstasies. The book is illustrated with color as well as black and white photographs, and embellished with sketches and painting s by R.N. Pasricha.
