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Item #: OP9467A-846
CLIMBS AND SKI RUNS: MOUNTAINEERING AND SKI-ING IN THE ALPS, GREAT BRITAIN AND CORSICA F.S. Smythe 1929 1st ed Hardcover Fine
By Smythe, Frank
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List Price: $75.00
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London, 1929, 1st ed. 307 pp, 61 b/w plates. Navy cloth hardcover with former owner's name on FEP, No Dust Jacket, else bright and Fine.
Frank Smythe was one of the most skilled alpinists in Britain in the 1930s. This book tells of his early and perhaps hardest adventures in the Alps and UK. Neate calls it, ''His first and perhaps his finest book." Introduction by Geoffrey Winthrop Young.
This book is an account of the many post WWI climbs and ski runs in the Alps which hasd been
inaccessible for half a decade. This si where Smythe's climbing developed to where he was invited to accompany some blue-er bloods in the Himalaya. The British caste system, still at work today, worked against Smythe and Finch who were passed over even though mosty upper class British climbers had recently died in the mud of France and Belgium.
Smythe's greatest climb was in 1931, when as the leader of a six man summit party, which included a young Eric Shipton, he made the first ascent of Kamet, which at 7756m was the highest peak climbed to the summit (climbers had gone higher on Everest, but did not summit.) Unfortunately their triumph was overshadowed five years later when Nanda Devi 7815m was climbed.
THere was always competition in climbing. The first half of the twentieth century saw a race for who could climb the highest, and who could reach the highest latitude. A number of good men died on those exploits.
Francis Sydney Smythe, better known as Frank Smythe or F. S. Smythe (1900 – 1949), was an English mountaineer, author, photographer and botanist. He is best remembered for his mountaineering in the Alps as well as in the Himalayas, where he identified a region that he named the "Valley of Flowers", now a protected park.
His ascents include two new routes on the Brenva Face of Mont Blanc, Kamet, and attempts on Kangchenjunga and Mount Everest in the 1930s. It was said that he had a tendency for irascibility, something some of his mountaineering contemporaries said "decreased with altitude".
He trained as an electrical engineer and worked for brief periods with the Royal Air Force and Kodak before devoting himself to writing and public lecturing. Smythe enjoyed mountaineering, photography, collecting plants, and gardening; he toured as a lecturer; and he wrote a total of twenty seven books. Smythe's focused approach is well documented, not only through his own writings, but by his contemporaries and later works.
During the Second World War he served in the Canadian Rockies as a mountaineer training officer for the Lovat Scouts.
I have owned and sold this copy of
Climbs and Ski Runs
before. It has my handwriting in faint pencil on the FEP. Probably in the 1990s we sold it to the fellow from whom we acquired it again.That is why we started putting those small labels in the back of most books. We sold hundreds of thousands of books, amps, ice axes, etc, with no way to tell it passed through Chessler's hands.
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