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Item #: OP4D-8522
SHINING MOUNTAIN: TWO MEN ON CHANGABANG'S WEST WALL Peter Boardman 1st US ed Hardcover DJ Fine Multiple copies available
By Boardman, Peter
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New York, 1982, 1st US edition. 193 pp, b/w photos. Hardcover with dust jacket. Like New.
The ascent of Changabang with Joe Tasker.
Changabang (6,864 m or 22,520 ft) is a mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. The climbs are all particularly steep and, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many world-class climbs.
It does not have a high topographic prominence, being slightly lower than its near neighbor Kalankato the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity. But its steep rocky profile has made it a much more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate.
Changabang was first climbed on June 4, 1974 by a team led by Chris Bonington, via the Southeast Face, leading to the East Ridge. This is the easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow and ice climb, as opposed to a rock climb with some snow, ice, or mixed terrain. The whole team summited: Chris Bonington, Martin Boysen, Alan Hankinson, Dougal Haston, Balwant 'Ballu' Sandhu and Doug Scott.
This two man ascent of Changabang in 1976, with Joe Tasker, could not have been a more different undertaking, and was rated the hardest climb achieved in the Himalaya at the time. The route took over 25 days to ascend, and their use of big wall climbing techniques to overcome the serious, sustained difficulties was revolutionary. The book went on to win the John Llewelyn Rhys Prize in 1979.
Later, in 1997, Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy made the first ascent of the North Face of Changabang, a 1,600 m (5,250 ft) route involving steep, sustained ice, mixed, and rock climbing. Unfortunately Murphy was hit by an avalanche and swept off the face to his death on the descent.
On October 12, 2006, two Mexican climbers, Andrés Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra, were successful in climbing Changabang by a new route. However, while descending, they encountered a storm and went missing on October 15, when they last made contact via satellite phone. India put on a rescue effort despite harsh weather conditions. On November 8, 2006, the search for them had been canceled due to inclement weather. (Adapted from Wikipedia).
Peter Boardman was a brilliant climber and an exceptional writer. While still at school, he went climbing in the Alps and made the first British ascents of the North Face Direct of the Olan, the North Face of the Nesthorn and the North Face Direct of the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn. While at the University of Nottingham he undertook his first expedition to the Hindu Kush of Afghanistan, climbing the North Face of Koh-I-Khaaik and making the first ascent of Kohi-Mundi.
A number of expeditions followed, and in 1975, he summited Everest via the South West face, as part of the second assault team, on an expedition on which fellow climber Mick Burke was tragically killed.
He was on K2 when climber Nick Estcourt was killed in an avalanche, Boardman successfully climbed Kangchenjunga in 1979 via the North Ridge. He returned to K2 in 1980, reaching a height of 7975 metres. He was killed on the North-North East ridge of Everest in 1982, along with his climbing partner Joe Tasker. In 1992 Boardman's body was found by climbers from Kazakhstan in a sitting position near the Second Pinnacle 'looking like he was asleep'. Boardman's body was identified through photographs by relatives in the UK.
Boardman's book
Sacred Summits
covers his climbs of three sacred mountains over one climbing year. The first, in the new year, was the South Face of the Carstensz Pyramid in the Snow Mountains of New guinea, one of the most inaccessible of peaks and the highest peak in southeast Asia. Carstensz is one of the Seven Summits.
With Doug Scott, Joe Tasker and Georges Bettembourg they made a four man oxygenless attempt on Kanchenjunga the world’s third highest peak by the unclimbed North Ridge.
Twice beaten back by hurricane force winds, on the third attempt they stood within feet of the summit, leaving the couple of yards untrodden in deference to the deity said to inhabit the very peak.
In October with four others he tackled the mountain most sacred to the Sherpas, Gauri Sankar, and made the first ascent of the South summit by the heavily corniced 4km long West Ridge which took an incredibly grueling 23 days.
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