Chessler Books
Rock Climbing - Mountaineering - Exploration
New - Used - Collectible - Signed
Chessler Books Accepts PAYPAL Chessler Books Accepts VISA Chessler Books Accepts MASTERCARD Chessler Books Accepts DISCOVER CARD Chessler Books Accepts AMERICAN EXPRESS
All Orders Shipped via United States Postal Service   Chessler Books Ships Via USPS
Author:
Title:
Keyword:
Item #:
A B C D E F G H I
J K L M Mc N O P Q
R S T U V W X Y Z
Item #: OP389H-855p
AMERICANS ON EVEREST: THE OFFICIAL ACCOUNT James Ramsey Ullman 1964 BOMC ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Jim Whittaker
By Ullman, James Ramsey
Price: $75.00

List Price: $150.00
You Save $75.00 (50%)



Add to wish list


Detailed Product Description
New York, 1964, true 1st edition. 429 pp, 74 b/w and color photos. Hardcover with dust jacket. Book and DJ are Fine.

The 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition was like a huge African Safari. There were 20 American climbers, about 40 Sherpas, and a thousand porters to carry everything to the Khumbu Glacier. It was only the fourth expedition to reach and succeed on Everest. It wasn't just climbing. It was political too. It was America flexing its new muscles, after being ''the last man standing'' after the War.

This copy is SIGNED by Jim Whittaker who was the first American to climb Mount Everest. He was only the tenth person to climb Everest. There was no runway in Lukla so the AMEE  walked in from Kathmandu, and carried their loads, just like Mallory did in 1921, 22 and 24 (that was only 40 years earlier!)



The first American ascent of Mount Everest was an unqualified success, a tour de force that put six climbers, in three groups, on two routes, up the mountain. 
 
In 1963 an American mountain-climbing expedition reached the top of the world's highest peak. It was the fourth expedition to reach the summit. They did it after weeks of exposure to the thin and bitterly cold air of Everest, after climber Jake Breitenbach was crushed under a falling ice wall, and in the teeth of howling winds and snowstorms. Success came first on May 1, when Jim Whittaker and Nawang Gombu gained the summit via the South Col route. This was followed three weeks later by an even more extraordinary feat: four more men made the peak - Lute Jertsad and Barry Bishop by the South Col route and Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein via the West Ridge, which had never been negotiated before.
 
Americans on Everest is an incredibly vivid account of their victories, and now a classic of American mountaineering literature.

In 1963, Swiss mountaineer Norman Dyhrenfurth invited the Whittaker brothers to join him on an Everest expedition. Lou was unable to make the trip, but Jim leapt at the chance. In his 1999 autobiography A Life on the Edge he describes how it felt to stand atop Everest: 'I did not feel expansive or sublime. I felt only, as I said later, 'like a frail human being'. 

People, mostly non-climbers talk about conquering mountains. In my mind, nothing could be farther from the truth. The mountain is so huge and powerful, and the climber so puny, exhausted, and powerless. The mountain is forever. Gombu and I, meanwhile, were dying every second we lingered.'
 
JIM WHITTAKER
 
There have been many firsts in Jim Whittaker's life. He was the first North American to summit Mount Everest (1963). As the first manager and employee, and ultimately the CEO, of Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), he led the company through years of record-setting growth. In 1965 he guided Bobby Kennedy up the newly-named Mount Kennedy, helping him to become the first person to summit the peak. In 1990, he led the historic International Peace Climb, which put climbers from the U.S., Russia, and China on the summit of Everest in the name of world peace.

Summitting Everest changed Jim Whittaker's life. An invitation to the White House led to a friendship with the Kennedy family and in particular with Bobby Kennedy, President Kennedy's younger brother and Attorney-General. Following the president's assassination, Whittaker guided Bobby Kennedy to the top of the Yukon mountain named in the president's memory.

Whittaker went on to lead expeditions to K2, organizing the first American team to summit the mountain in 1978. In 1990 he surmounted physical and bureaucratic hurdles to place a combined U.S-Chinese-Russian team at the summit of Everest as part of the 1990 Mount Everest Earth Day International Peace Climb.

Today Jim Whittaker spends his time lecturing, writing and, when time allows, sailing with his wife Dianne Roberts, and their two teenage sons. Life, Whittaker says, is still full of adventure: 'I think a life well lived is also inseparable from being able and willing to learn continuously. A climber who doesn't learn, almost with every foothold and handhold, is unlikely to be around long enough to have a life well lived. Learning is what happens when you risk a journey beyond what you know and are comfortable with, to something you don't know and aren't comfortable with. A lot of people my age act like they've seen it all and have nothing much else to learn. But I'm still a learner.

 
From Wikipedia: Born in St. Louis, Missouri in 1930, Hornbein developed an interest in geology as a teenager. His study of geology led to a fascination with mountains. Eventually he also became interested in medicine; he studied and worked as an anesthesiologist. He studied human physiological limits and performance at high altitude. He was Professor and Chairman of the Department of Anesthesiology at the University of Washington School of Medicine in Seattle, Washington from 1978 to 1993. His life was a link of medicine and mountaineering.

When Hornbein and his partner Willi Unsoeld attempted to climb Mount Everest in 1963, eight men had already reached the summit. Hornbein and Unsoeld were the first to attempt an ascent of the daunting West Ridge. Previously,ascents of the mountain had been made only via the South Col and Southeast Ridge or the North Col and Northeast Ridge. This first ascent of a new route on Everest is considered a landmark event in Himalayan mountaineering.

On May 22, 1963 at 6:50 a.m. they left their camp and started the climb, and even though progress was very slow made it to the summit at 6:15 that night. They found themselves hours behind the generally accepted schedule and after spending 20 minutes at the top they began the descent. They used the South Col for the trip down deciding that it would be unwise to attempt a night descent via the extremely dangerous Yellow Band, which they had surmounted on the way up. Shortly after they started down Unsoeld ran out of oxygen.

At 9:30 P.M. they came upon two other Americans from the same expedition, Barry Bishop and Lute Jerstad. Bishop and Jerstad had reached the summit earlier in the day using the now standard South Col route, and by this time they too were exhausted and nearly out of oxygen. The four climbers joined together on the descent and continued to make very slow progress until they felt it was too dangerous and stopped sometime after midnight.

They huddled together until 4:00 a.m. and started down again, meeting expedition members carrying extra tanks of oxygen. They made it to camp to find Unsoeld’s feet hard and frostbitten. Barry Bishop and Lute Jerstad also suffered from frostbite and Bishop and Unsoeld lost toes as a result.

Hornbein wrote about this night event in his book 'Everest: The West Ridge':  'The night was overwhelming empty.The black silhouette of Lhotse was lurking there, half to see, half to assume, and below us. In general there was nothing – simply nothing. We hung in a timeless gap, pained by the intense cold air – and had the idea not to be able to do anything but to shiver and to wait for the sun arising.'

Hornbein named the Hornbein Couloir, a snow gulley in the utmost upper part of the north wall, which Hornbein and Unsoeld passed. In his book Into Thin Air, Jon Krakauer writes that 'Hornbein's and Unsoeld's ascent was--and continues to be--deservedly hailed as one of the great feats in the annals of mountaineering.'

How to tell the difference between a true 1st edition and a BOMC edition (Book of the Month Club) of Americans on Everest.

Since 1926 the Book of the Month Club (BOMC) has sold thousands of copies of new books at the same time the regular trade edition was available in bookstores. The BOMC copies were much cheaper in price. Nowadays most book collectors prefer true first editions, and what gets confusing is that many BOMC editions also say 'First Edition' on the copyright page. The same thing happened to Heinrich Harrer's Seven Years in Tibet. Indentation on lower rear cover, next to the spine.Most 'First editions' of Seven Years In Tibet are BOMC editions.

Below is an image of the copyright page on a 1st edition Americans on Everest and a copyright page of a BOMC edition.  

Note the letter W on copyright page of the BOMC edition. In a nutshell, that is all you need to know. The book's color photos are all included in the BOMC edition and are just as good.  

Other differences is cheaper text paper, cheaper dust jacket paper, no price on the dust jacket, and a small indentation on the bottom of the rear cover of the BOMC copies. Also the number 1066 at the bottom rear of the BOMC DJ.  The indentation often applies to all their offerings.


Above: Copyright page of a true first edition of Americans on Everest.


Above: Copyright page of a BOMC (Book of the Month Club) 'stated' first edition of Americans on Everest. Note the letter W.


Above most BOMC books made a small indentation at the bottom rear of the book (not the DJ).  It can be round or square:

One last way to tell a BOMC from a 1st ed. At the bottom of the BOMC dust jacket is the meaningless number 1066:

At the bottom of the BOMC dust jacket is the meaningless number 1066:






Other Items You Might Like

  • Similar Items Available
  • Items From This Author
  • Items From This Category
AMERICANS ON EVEREST: THE OFFICIAL ACCOUNT James Ramsey Ullman 1964 True 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Leader of 1963 AMEE: Norman Dyhrenfurth
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $75.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $75.00 (50%)
- Item # OP389D-855p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AMERICANS ON EVEREST: THE OFFICIAL ACCOUNT James Ramsey Ullman 1964 BOMC ed Hardcover DJ/No DJ Near Fine Multiple Copies Available
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $10.00, You Save $5.01 (50%)
- Item # OP389C-8614
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AMERICANS ON EVEREST: THE OFFICIAL ACCOUNT James Ramsey Ullman 1964 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $49.95, You Save $39.96 (80%)
- Item # OP389B-882
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
A LIFE ON THE EDGE: MEMOIRS OF EVEREST AND BEYOND New Hardcover DJ INSCRIBED by Jim Whittaker
By: Whittaker, Jim
Price $50.00 ~ Regular $66.95, You Save $16.95 (25%)
- Item # BK1680B-879
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
A LIFE ON THE EDGE: MEMOIRS OF EVEREST AND BEYOND 1999 1st ed New Hardcover DJ SIGNED by Jim Whittaker 3 Copies Available
By: Whittaker, Jim
Price $79.95 ~ Regular $90.00, You Save $10.05 (11%)
- Item # BK1680-8492
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST THE WEST RIDGE 1965 1st edition Large Format Hardcover No Dust Jacket SIGNED by Tom Hornbein and James Whittaker Multiple copies available
By: Hornbein, Thomas F.
Price $195.00
- Item # OP327E-8422p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST THE WEST RIDGE 1965 1st edition Large Format Hardcover Dust Jacket SIGNED by Tom Hornbein and James Whittaker Multiple copies available
By: Hornbein, Thomas F.
Price $295.00
- Item # OP327C-8572p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
A LIFE ON THE EDGE: MEMOIRS OF EVEREST AND BEYOND Jim Whittaker 1999 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine 3 Copies Available [Not Signed]
By: Whittaker, Jim
Price $19.95 ~ Regular $26.95, You Save $7.00 (26%)
- Item # BK1680E-9573
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
KINGDOM OF ADVENTURE: EVEREST James Ramsey Ullman 1947 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by James Ramsey Ullman Rare!
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $195.00
- Item # OP390A-854
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST THE WEST RIDGE 1965 1st edition Large Format Hardcover Dust Jacket SIGNED by Tom Hornbein, Jim Whittaker & Barry Corbet 2 copies available
By: Hornbein, Thomas F.
Price $345.00 ~ Regular $450.00, You Save $105.00 (23%)
- Item # OP327D-8602p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE WHITE TOWER (Novel) James Ramsey Ullman 1945 Reprint Hardcover Very Good-Near Fine
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $25.00, You Save $20.01 (80%)
- Item # OP1168-957
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AMERICANS ON EVEREST: THE OFFICIAL ACCOUNT Hardcover 1965 1st ed SIGNED by Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein, West Ridge Team RARE!
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $1200.00 ~ Regular $1500.00, You Save $300.00 (20%)
- Item # OP389G-853p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
KINGDOM OF ADVENTURE: EVEREST James Ramsey Ullman 1947 1st US ed Hardcover No DJ Very Multiple Copies Available
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $20.00, You Save $15.01 (75%)
- Item # OP390D-8776
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
HIGH CONQUEST THE STORY OF MOUNTAINEERING James Ramsey Ullman 1941 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $35.00 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $15.00 (30%)
- Item # OP1396D-849
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
KINGDOM OF ADVENTURE: EVEREST James Ramsey Ullman 1947 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine 3 Copies Available
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $19.99
- Item # OP390B-8552
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AMERICANS ON EVEREST: THE OFFICIAL ACCOUNT James Ramsey Ullman 1964 BOMC ed Hardcover DJ/No DJ Near Fine Multiple Copies Available
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $10.00, You Save $5.01 (50%)
- Item # OP389C-8614
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
STRAIGHT UP: THE LIFE AND DEATH OF JOHN HARLIN James Ramsay Ullman 1968 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine Multiple Copies Available
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $9.95 ~ Regular $29.95, You Save $20.00 (67%)
- Item # OP99-8416
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AMERICANS ON EVEREST: THE OFFICIAL ACCOUNT James Ramsey Ullman 1964 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $49.95, You Save $39.96 (80%)
- Item # OP389B-882
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
HIGH CONQUEST THE STORY OF MOUNTAINEERING James Ramsey Ullman 1941 5th-6th imp Hardcover DJ Very Good - Near Fine
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $35.00, You Save $30.01 (86%)
- Item # OP1396-893
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
KINGDOM OF ADVENTURE: EVEREST James Ramsey Ullman 1947 1st ed Hardcover DJ Very Good Multiple Copies Available
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $60.00, You Save $55.01 (92%)
- Item # OP390C-8495
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
VINTAGE ICE AXE WOOD HANDLE ICE AXE 40 3/4 inches long 70-90 years old SIGNED by Kurt Diemberger
By: Ice Axe
Price $155.00
- Item # HW981AB-884
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
TOUCHING THE VOID Joe Simpson 1988 1st US ed Hardcover SIGNED by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates RARE!
By: Simpson, Joe
Price $295.00
- Item # OP1817-835
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BLACK CANYON ROCK CLIMBS COLORADO 2002 Fine INSCRIBED by Robbie Williams
By: Williams, Robbie
Price $19.95 ~ Regular $28.00, You Save $8.05 (29%)
- Item # GB627-942
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
NANDA DEVI: THE TRAGIC EXPEDITION John Roskelley 1987 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by John Roskelley
By: Roskelley, John
Price $125.00
- Item # OP189E-844
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AMONG THE ALPS WITH BRADFORD Bradford Washburn 1927 1st edition Fine With A Rare and Fine Dust Jacket SIGNED by Bradford Washburn
By: Washburn, Bradford
Price $395.00
- Item # OP495C-835
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
JUST FOR THE LOVE OF IT: THE FIRST WOMAN TO CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST FROM BOTH SIDES 2003 Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Cathy O'Dowd
By: O'Dowd, Cathy
Price $39.99 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $35.01 (47%)
- Item # BK1245-861
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE TOTEM POLE AND A WHOLE NEW ADVENTURE 1999 Hardcover DJ Fine 3 Copies Available SIGNED or INSCRIBED by Paul Pritchard
By: Pritchard, Paul
Price $29.95 ~ Regular $60.00, You Save $30.05 (50%)
- Item # BK1215-8613
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ADVENTURES WITH ARCTIC WILDLIFE Staender, G. & V. 1970 1st edition Hardcover INSCRIBED by both authorsD
By: Staender, Gilbert & Vivian
Price $9.95
- Item # OP4867-840
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ON TOP OF THE WORLD: MY ADVENTURES WITH MY MOUNTAIN-CLIMBING HUSBAND Patricia Petzoldt 1954 1st edition Hardcover DJ Near Fine SIGNED by Paul Petzoldt + ephemera
By: Petzoldt, Patricia
Price $225.00
- Item # OP613C-854
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
NORTH TO THE POLE Will Steger with Paul Schurke 1987 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Carl Schurke
By: Steger, Will with Paul Schurke
Price $25.00 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $25.00 (50%)
- Item # PL268A-874
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart