London, 1971, 1st edition. 344 pp, 88 photos, 8 maps and sketches, index. Translated by Hugh Merrick. Hardcover with Dust Jacket, Fine.
Diemberger made first ascents of Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri. One of the most desirable and well-written Himalayan books.
Kurt Diemberger (born 1932 in Austria), is the only remaining person alive that has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres.
This is Kurt's first climbing autobiography. Described his climbs of the North Face Matterhorn, Giant Meringue, North Face of the Face Eiger, Walker Spur, Peuteret Ridge, 1st ascent Broad Pk, 1st ascent Dhaulagiri, Tirich Mir, Greenland. Details of the death of Buhl on Chogolisa.
In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent of Dhaulagiri. Diemberger was also the last person to see Hermann Buhl alive before he fell through a cornice on Chogolisa.
Diemberger was one of only two survivors in the 1986 K2 Disaster. On August 4, 1986, Diemberger and Julie Tullis reached the summit of K2 very late in the day.
