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Item #: OP1770C-854
ON THE HEIGHTS Walter Bonatti 1964 1st UK ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Walter Bonatti (See our translation below of Bonatti's Italian inscription)
By Bonatti, Walter, Bonatti, Walter
Price: $650.00


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Detailed Product Description

London, 1964, 1st UK edition. 248 pp, 20 b/w photos. Brown cloth hardcover with dust jacket. No internal writing, no wear, no flaws of any kind. Dust jacket has no wear, chips or fading and is not price clipped. Very Fine condition. An excellent copy of one of the true classics of modern extreme mountaineering.


This copy is SIGNED by Walter Bonatti, and inscribed in Italian, and dated 1995.

Incredibly, I have Italian speakers in my family, and we got a quick translation of what Bonatti has written in Italian:

In Italian:

Caro Alan Lamb,
mi rallegra sapere che già da bambino lei seguiva il mio alpinismo.  ordialmente,

Valter Bonatti
febbraio 1995

…and in English:

Dear Alan Lamb,
I am glad to know that even as a child you followed my alpinism.
Kind regards,

Valter Bonatti
February 1995

Bonatti was one of the greatest Alpine climbers of the 1950's, and this book is one of the classics of mountaineering. Bonatti is one of the world's most important mountaineers and made the first ascents of K2 and Gasherbrum 4.


He describes here his climbs in the Peruvian Andes and the Southern Patagonian Cordillera, as well as his classic climbs in the Alps and the Dolomites. This is the first volume of Bonatti's memoirs. Includes the ill-fated attempt to scale the Freney Pillar in which four of his six strong team died. 
  
Wikipedia:

Walter Bonatti (1930 - 2011) was an Italian climber who set new standards in post-war Alpine climbing.

Famed for his climbing panache, he pioneered little known and technically difficult climbs in the Alps, Himalaya and Patagonia. Among his notable climbs are a solo climb of a new route on the south-west pillar of the Aiguille du Dru in August 1955 and the first solo winter ascent of the Matterhorn north face in 1965.

At the age of 21 in 1951, Bonatti made the first ascent of The Grand Capucin, an extraordinary red granite pinnacle in the Mont Blanc Massif, from July 20 to the 23. This was the climb that brought him to public notice. 

At the tender age of eighteen, Bonatti had already made the fourth ascent of the formidable North Face of the Grand Jorasses with very poor equipment over a period of two days. Bonatti was awarded the French Legion d'Honneur for saving the lives of two fellow-climbers in a disaster in the Alps.

Walter Bonatti was at the center of a climbing controversy regarding the first successful ascent of K2 by Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni in 1954, where as a 24-year old he helped ferry oxygen cylinders to the summiters at Camp 9. 

Bonatti was accused of using some of the vital oxygen during his enforced bivouac at 26,600 ft when in fact, it was physically impossible for him to do so - he had no mask or regulator. He descended the next day leaving the oxygen intact for Lacedelli and Compagnoni to use in their successful summit climb. They used oxygen to the very summit of K2, oxygen that Bonatti had risked his life to get to them. In the early 1990s, two summit photos proved his story that the climbers were using oxygen. 

Lacedelli. on his deathbed, admitted that he had lied in 1954, and that Bonatti had brought the oxygen. His motive was, as Bonatti said all along, to prevent the young Bonatti getting the credit for making the first ascent of K2.


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