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EVEREST INC: THE RENEGADES AND ROGUES WHO BUILT AN INDUSTRY AT THE TOP OF THE WORLD Will Cockrell 2024 1st ed New Hardcover
By Cockrell, Will
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2024, 1st edition. 331 pages, over 50 color photos which are printed on glossy stock for better detail. New hardcover with Dust Jacket. 

This is a great book, please ignore the stupid title ''THE RENEGADES AND ROGUES...'' The people who lead climbs in 8000 meter peaks and the Seven Summits are all proven, competent climbers and businessmen. Please read on, as guided climbing is not what it is criticized for. 

What Cockrell has discovered about those crowds of climbers being guided up Mount Everest in 2024 for huge amounts of money is not what I expected at all. In contrast to the rumors, almost everybody who goes on a guided climb to Everest summits safely, or turns around early enough. And since the Sherpas now own most of the guide services, prices have been reduced but not safety. 

Maybe mountain climbing is not just an elite sport for experts who devote their lives to alpinism. Maybe climbing can be an outlet for for anybody who wants to feel that she or he is the best at something. They can do that something dangerous by standing on the top of the world. That crazy act can give them a meaning to their life like nothing else. 

The mission of guided climbing that is almost rarely talked about, and beyond criticism,  is that many people who use professional guides and guiding companies do so not for help in the actual climbing. They do so for the almost impossible task for an ordinary climber of planing the logistics of creating an expedition. The only two of the Seven Summits that require having partners and serious expeditions are Denali and Everest. Even Aconcagua, Vinson and Elbrus are feasible for a solo climber. The new guiding industry fills a need for non-elite climbers to make the difficult expeditionary climbs possible.   

The closest I ever came to an expedition was a 2 week trek  of the Ptarmigan Traverse in the North Cascades. I went on a 10 person trip led by leader in the Appalchian Mountain Club in 1970. The logistics simply was buying and re-packing the food into baggies (did we have baggies in 1970?) Before they allowed me to join the trip I had to rock climb up the the Pinnacle in Huntington Ravine, Mt Washington with the trip leader, as nobody on the trip had ever climbed with me. (I was slow on the climb, because the bushes of blueberries were ripe on the ledges, and I kept stopping to eat them.)    

On a bigger scale, William Hackett climbed five of the Seven Summits by 1956, but was unable to get permit for Everest and Vinson (still unclimbed.) Eugene Mason climbed four by the early 1970s. He wrote Minus Three in 1970 as he thought he was the first man to climb all three: Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, McKinley. He later climbed Elbrus, so he bagged four of the seven summits long before Dick Bass and Frank Wells started their quest. 

Cockrell starts Everest Inc, and the story of guided climbs of 8000 meter peaks, with the story of Dick Bass, the first person to climb the seven summits. Dick Bass is also the first person to use professional guides on Everest, most famously David Breashears and Rick Ridgeway, to climb Mount Everest safely. The fact that Bass was not a life-long climber clearly demonstrated that almost anybody in good physical and financial shape can still live their dream of accomplishing one of the greatest feats of mankind. 

Anyone who has read Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air or has seen a recent photo of climbers standing in line to get to the top of Everest may think they have the mountain pretty well figured out. However, all 14 8000 meter peaks are still an extreme landscape where bad weather and extreme altitude can kill.  Some say that Everest is now an overcrowded, trashed-out recreation destination where rich clients pad their egos — and social media feeds — while exploiting local Sherpas.

There’s some truth to these clichés, but they’re a sliver of the story. Unlike any book to date, Everest, Inc. gets of the definitive story the new invention: the Professional Himalayan Guiding Industry. It all began in the 1980s with a climbing entrepreneurs who paired raw courage and naked ambition with a new style of expedition planning. Many of them are still living and climbing today, and as a result of their astonishing success, ninety percent of the people now on Everest are clients or employees of guided expeditions. 

Studded with quotes from original interviews with more than a hundred western and Sherpa climbers, clients, writers, filmmakers, and even a Hollywood actor, Everest, Inc. foregrounds the voices of the people who have made the mountain what it is today. And while there is plenty of high-altitude drama in examining the last forty years of Everest tragedy and triumph, it ultimately transcends stereotypes and tells the uplifting counternarrative of the army of journeymen and women who have made people’s dreams come true, and of the Nepalis who are pushing the industry into the future.



Eventually the Everest craze will be satiated. It will always be on bucket-lists, but no more so than what Mont Blanc has become with over 20,000 -30,000 ascents each summer. Don't laugh, Everest today is what Mont Blanc looked like in the 19th century. 

Nowadays 10-20 climbers a year die on Mont Blanc. Wikipedia says 6,000 to 8,000 alpinists have died on Mont Blanc in total, more than on any other mountain. Google says 30,000 that on Mont Blanc 200 summit each day, and there have been 1400 deaths. Arnette's website says over 100 climbers died on Mount Blanc just in the summer of 2008. Can you imagine the outcry if 100 people died on Mount Everest in one summer?

Eventually new climbing destinations will replace Everest as the climb to do. The other 8000 meter peaks are already there, as Cho Oyu has had 3138 ascents and Gasherbrum II has had 930 ascents! That is because they are the easiest and the safest to climb.  The popularity of Cho Oyu is as much ten to fifteen times what each of the other 8000 meter peaks have been climbed.  

Then what is next?
  
Aconcagua at 6,961 meters or 22,838 feet is the highest climb in the world not in Asian mountain ranges. 6,961 meters is the same as 7000 meters. 

The new altitude to climb may become the 7000 meter peaks. The current list shows 132 peaks between 7000 meters and 8000 meters., and only a few are unclimbed. Most are climbed, but by only one or two routes. Maybe 7000 (or 6000 or 5000) meters will become the new 8000 meters!  
Someday people will try to climb all the 7000 meter peaks. 
Someday, somebody will climb them all. 
You heard it here first.

Then the list stretches to 6000 meters and then 5000 meters. I live in Colorado where the bucket list climbing the 53 peaks over 14,000 feet or 4267 meters. There are 96 peaks in the USA over 14,000 meters. I can see one from my desk as I type this.   

 



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