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Item #: OP405C-863
CHOUINARD EQUIPMENT CATALOG 1972-1974 Yvon Chouinard Near Fine
By Chouinard, Yvon, Tom Frost and Doug Robinson
Price: $395.00

List Price: $750.00
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Detailed Product Description
The 1972-1974 Chouinard Equipment Catalog marked a watershed in climbing culture/technology by establishing a standard for clean climbing ethics in the United States.



 In addition to lots of nice photos of gear, features in the catalog include:
  • “A Word..” An essay on clean climbing by Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost   
  • A History of Chouinard Firsts (from 1957-1972) with a photo of Yvon Chouinard and John Salathe in 1964.
  • The essay, “The Whole Natural Art of Protection,” by Doug Robinson
  • Short pieces on “the Yosemite Method,” “A simple rappelling system and the Yosemite Hammer,” Nailing Flexible Flakes,” “Method of Removing,” and “Safety Considerations.”
  • There are also a number of ads for Chouinard equipment.
Ventura, 1972-1974. The front cover of this catalog is a reproduction of a sixteenth century Chinese painting. This 72 page Catalog contains a number of lovely black and white photos of mountain scenes and climbers. The dimensions are approx 6 1/4'' x 11''.   The catalog is fine, with a previous owner's initial visible outside, and her name written on the bottom lower side of the cover inside. Overall Fine.  

The catalog was used for several years by Chouinard, and is commonly referred to as the 1972 catalog, and indeed on page 4 listing ''History of Chouinard Firsts,'' the list of new products stops at 1972 (Crag Hammer, Stoppers, Climaxe.) However, on page 71 is a price list, and it clearly states ''Prices effective March 15, 1974 through June 15, 1974;'' also, ''This listing includes all new items  planned for the '74 season; please write for estimated delivery dates on items not shown in our latest catalog.''  

What is most important of course is that with this catalog Chouinard knew he was changing the protection techniques of rock climbers with the shift to nuts from pitons, and the phrase ''clean climbing'' and other articles had an instant and major impact on climbers across America and around the world. 

Unique to this catalog is that even today there is an entire independent website devoted to describing and explaining the new gear and techniques in this catalog.  

Check this 1972 catalog here: http://climbaz.com/chouinard72/chouinard.html - every page of the catalog is scanned in and discussed.

On the site is an interview with Steve Grossman

''Another thing that really affected me ethically early on was the 1972 Chouinard climbing catalog. It made a strong push for clean climbing in terms of free protection and people relying less on hammered protection. It had a lot of affect on everybody pretty much in climbing at the time in a way that’s really unparalleled.'' 

''It laid out the ethics of British rock climbing. You have a small island with a fairly finite amount of rock and a lot of heavy use. They really, in contrast to what was happening in the rest of Europe, developed a low impact ethic. It allowed their routes to see heavy traffic and minimal damage. The big push was toward that same kind of ethic.''

''Fortunately, at the same time, Chouinard equipment came out with hexes and stoppers, equipment that made all that kind of low impact climbing possible. Prior to those innovations, the kind of nuts that were available out there were just not really all that effective.'' 

''The synergy of that catalog pushing that ethic and equipment that was being produced revolutionized climbing as we know it. Thinking about it now, had that not happened, and had people continued to pound pins and bust flakes off and scar and damage rock, things would be much uglier out there. It’s really pretty horrifying what would have gone on if that revolution hadn’t happened.''


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