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Item #: BK5515-8613
TONY STREATHER SOLDIER AND MOUNTAINEER 1926-2018 Turner, Edmundson 2021 1st ed Softcover New Multiple copies available
By Turner, Robert and Henry Edmundson
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UK, 2021, 1st UK edition. 143 pages, photos. Softcover (only edition. Fine to New.

This biography of Tony Streather describes a man who was one of the very great trailblazers of the golden age of Himalayan climbing in the 1950s. Tony Streather was a professional soldier to the core, serving in the North-West Frontier of India, Germany, Cyprus, North Borneo and Northern Ireland among many assignments. 

But through a chance meeting in post-Partition Pakistan, he became transport officer to a Norwegian expedition to Tirich Mir  (7,708 meters 25,289 ft), highest peak in the Hindu Kush. 

He joined the summit team that scaled the mountain for the first time. From that moment onwards, he combined soldiering with a distinguished mountaineering career. He summited Kangchenjunga as a member of the second rope in 1955 and survived tragedies on K2 and Haramosh. 

Many expeditions followed. His military career, which included co-founding the Army Mountaineering Association, was exemplary. For the first time, this authorized biography tells the full story of Tony Streather, soldier and mountaineer.



Mountaineering achievements

As a captain posted to the Chitral region of Pakistan, Streather was the official government representative in a Norwegian expedition that made the first ascent in 1951 of Tirich Mir (7,708 m), the highest mountain of the Hindu Kush. He was initially appointed transport officer, but became a member of the successful summiting team. 

On his return to Britain he was invited to join the Alpine Club (he later became its president from 199093), and was selected for trials for the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition. 

He was rejected for the latter because of a lack of technical experience, but nearly at the same time was invited to join the 1953 American Karakoram Expedition, which attempted a far more technical route up K2, the second highest mountain in the world. Though again originally in charge of logistics, he climbed as high as anyone else and was involved in the dramatic events at 7,800 m. This was the famous K2 the Savage Mountain expedition, where Streather was on one of the three rope teams saved by Pete Schoening. 

In 1955, Streather participated in the successful 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition, the third highest mountain in the world. With Norman Hardie, he reached the summit the day after the first summit party of Joe Brown and George Band. This made him the first man ever to climb two peaks of over 25,000 feet (7,600 m). 

In 1957 he survived an epic near-ascent of Haramosh (7,397 m). 

In 1959 he led a successful expedition that included an ascent of Malubiting Southeast (6,970 m).

Streather led the 1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest, which successfully put two British Army climbers on the summit: Bronco Lane and Brummie Stokes.






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