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Item #: BK524-9364
THE WILDEST DREAM: MALLORY: HIS LIFE AND CONFLICTING PASSIONS Peter Gillman 2000 1st UK ed Hardcover DJ New Multiple copies available
By Gillman, Peter and Leni, Gillman, Peter and Leni
Price: $45.00


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London, Headline, 2000, 1st UK edition. 306 pp, photos on glossy stock. Hardcover with Dust Jacket, condition is New. A nicer production than the USA edition. WINNER of the Boardman Tasker Prize in year 2000.

We have two brand new copies of this book because we have been putting aside books that had won the Boardman Tasker Prize to sell as a full set. After twenty years, 1984-2004 we stopped advertising the set, but we continued building the sets until 2021 when it had 38 books. Many were autographed. But the price became sky high, and  serious collectors would already have many of the titles. A whike ago we had started to deacquisition, and now are selling what is left, about twenty titles.  

The Gillmans examine Mallory the man, his literary and artist associates, how his mind worked. His relationship with wife is covered. Then of course the three Everest expeditions are probed, in light of who Mallory really was.

George Mallory is a name that still resonates within the climbing community. You only have to ask anyone with an interest in climbing “Do you think he got to the top” and they will know whom you are talking about and will have an opinion as to whether he did.

There were probably few moments in mountaineering history as moving as when the bleached but almost intact body of Mallory was found on 1 May 1999 on Everest.

Mallory was without doubt an extraordinary man, an aesthete, a friend of the Bloomsbury set, a man who passed through a brief, or depending on your view of his motivation for taking Irvine to the summit, an extended or permanent homosexual phase. A socialist, a soldier, a brilliant but mercurial climber. A different kettle of fish to most of the modern breed of climbers. No one has come close to him for the pull his name still exerts.

What is the essence of that fascination? Many books have been written about Mallory, from the debunking to the hagiography. In the 2000 Boardman Tasker deservedly awarding winning biography by Peter and Leni Gillman 'The Wildest dream Mallory His Life and Conflicting passions” the Gillmans come closer than anyone in getting to the heart of the man. They were able to draw on an extensive collection of the Mallory’s letters, many previously unpublished and surviving members of the family helped them.

They give a true, well balanced portrait of a man whose whole life was driven and torn between compelling and competing desires. . It is one of the few mountaineering books that you can thrust upon those with no interest in climbing and they will be enthralled.

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