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Item #: OP743-110
MANASLU 1952-53 Japanese Alpine Club 1954 1st edition Tall Hardcover No DJ Near Fine
By Japanese Alpine Club
Price: $395.00

List Price: $950.00
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Detailed Product Description

Tokyo, 1954, first edition. 217 + 17 pp, b/w photos. Introduction in English, 100's of photos, maps, fold outs.  Hardcover, no DJ, Near Fine.

This is a large and heavy book so extra postage will be requested for Priority as well as International Mail.

This book includes accounts of the 1952 and 1953 Japanese Manaslu expeditions. It was amazing how many expeditions were made to the 8000m peaks right after WWII. Most amazing is how the Japanese were able to mount several well equipped and organized attempts in early 1950s.

The Japanese had an attachment to climbing Manaslu in the 1950s similar to Britain's obession with Everest and America's with K2 (which was also coveted by the Italians.) They did several books on Manaslu, the most important of which is this one on the attempts to climb it in 1952 and 1953, and then again in 1954 and 1956, which was finally successful. 

1952  A Japanese reconnaissance party of six, led by Kinji Imanishi, also examined the western side of the mountain after an unsuccessful attempt on Annapurna 4 in autumn. They, then crossed over Larkya Bhanjyang pass and made it to base camp above Sama Village. They stepped in to the Manaslu Glacier and reached just below the Naike Col to find their route up the NE Face would be the most possible line to the summit plateau. They also reached a 5275m point on the E Ridge and observed the SE Face which seemed to be impossible.

1953 A 15-member Japanese Alpine Club party, led by Yukio Mita, made the first attempt to the NE Face in spring. BC was established on April 12 on the left bank of the Manaslu Glacier at 3850m. On June 1, after making nine camps, Kiichiro Kato, Jiro Yamada and Shojiro Ishizaka made the summit bid but retreated at the highest point of 7750 m.


1950 H.W. Tilman made a reconnaissance of Manaslu and believed there was a potential route to the top via the northeast.
 
1952 Japanese reconnaissance party reached 5275 m/17,300' on the east side.
 
1953 First attempt made by a Japanese team of 15 climbers to summit via the Northeast face. Three climbers made a summit attempt reaching 7750m m, or 25,425' before turning back.
 
1956 First ascent, by T. Imanishi (Japan) and Gyalzen Norbu (Sherpa).
 
1971 On May 17, Kazuharu Kohara and Motoki, part of an 11 man Japanese team, reached the summit via the NW spur.
 
1971 Kim Ho-Sup led a Korean expedition attempt via the Northeast. Kim Ki-Sup fell to his death on May 4.
 
1972 An Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz made the first ascent via the SW face.
 
1972 Koreans attempt the Northeast Face route. On April 10, an avalanche buried their camp at 6,500 m (21,300 ft), killing 15 climbers including 10 Sherpas, the Korean expedition leader Kim Ho-sup,and Kazunari Yasuhisa from Japan. 1973 On April 22, Gerhard Schmatz, Gerhard, Sigi Hupfauer and a Sherpa climber reached the summit via the Northeast face.
 
1974 On May 4, an all female Japanese expedition makes the summit, becoming the first women to climb an 8,000 metre peak. One climber died on May 5 when she fell between camps 4 and 5.
 
1975 On April 26, Gerald Garcia, Jeronimo Lopez and Sonam Sherpa of a Spanish expedition summit via the Northeast face.
 
1984 On January 14, Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski of a Polish expedition made a first winter ascent via the normal route
 
1993 On May 2, Sepp Brunner, Gerhard Flossmann, Sepp Hinding and Dr. Michael Leuprecht reached the summit via the normal route and descended with ski from 7,000m to the basecamp. The Austrian expedition was guided by Arthur Haid.
 
1997 Colorado's Charlie Mace made the first American ascent.
 
2002 On May 13, five Americans and two Sherpas reach the summit.
 
2002 American Manaslu Expedition.
 
2006 On May 29, Australian mountaineer Sue Fear died after falling into a crevasse on her descent after summitting. She was a friend of mountaineer Lincoln Hall, who survived a night exposed near Everest's summit.


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