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Item #: OP744B-9392
MANASLU 1954-56 FIRST ASCENT Japanese Alpine Club 1958 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By Japanese Alpine Club
Price: $399.00

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Detailed Product Description
Tokyo, The Mainichi Newspapers, 1958, 1st edition. 353 pp, 13 page introduction in English, 100s of photos, maps, foldouts. Described in Neate J17 and Yakushi j526. Sivalaya pages 141-142. Some English.  Tall hardcover, 10 1/2'', or 26 cm, bound in handsome red cloth hardcover.  The DJ is very clean and bright, and has slight edge wear, one chip, and is Near Fine. The book is utterly flawless, and is Fine. 

Includes accounts of the 1954 and 1956 Japanese Manaslu expeditions, which includes the first ascent. This is the most important Japanese language book for collectors as this is an official account of the first ascent of an 8000m peak. 

After WW2, all the major belligerents burst out of their gates and headed for the Himalaya and Karakoram. In ten years all the 8000, peaks except Shishapangma were climbed. The Japanese had their heart set on Manaslu, and in 4 years, 1952-1956, they sent 4 expeditions to climb Manaslu. This resulted in three books, mostly in Japanese, but with photo captions and a summary of the expedition in English.   
The titles of the three Manaslu books are:
Manaslu 1952-53.  Japanese Alpine Club
Manaslu 1954-56    Japanese Alpine Club
ASCENT OF MANASLU IN PHOTOGRAPHS 1952-56.  Mainichi Newspapers

Manaslu Timeline

1950 H.W. Tilman made a reconnaissance of Manaslu and believed there was a potential route to the top via the northeast.
 
1952 Japanese reconnaissance party reached 5275 m/17,300' on the east side.
 
1953 First attempt made by a Japanese team of 15 climbers to summit via the Northeast face. Three climbers made a summit attempt reaching 7750 m/25,425' before turning back.  
 
1956 First ascent, by T. Imanishi (Japan) and Gyalzen Norbu (Sherpa). DESCRIBED IN THIS BOOK
 
1971 On May 17, Kazuharu Kohara and Motoki, part of an 11 man Japanese team, reached the summit via the NW spur.
 
1971 Kim Ho-Sup led a Korean expedition attempt via the Northeast. Kim Ki-Sup fell to his death on May 4.
 
1972 An Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz made the first ascent via the SW face.
 
1972 Koreans attempt the Northeast Face route. On April 10, an avalanche buried their camp at 6,500 m (21,300 ft), killing 15 climbers including 10 Sherpas, the Korean expedition leader Kim Ho-sup,and Kazunari Yasuhisa from Japan. 1973 On April 22, Gerhard Schmatz, Gerhard, Sigi Hupfauer and a Sherpa climber reached the summit via the Northeast face.
 
1974 On May 4, an all female Japanese expedition makes the summit, becoming the first women to climb an 8,000 metre peak. One climber died on May 5 when she fell between camps 4 and 5.
 
1975 On April 26, Gerald Garcia, Jeronimo Lopez and Sonam Sherpa of a Spanish expedition summit via the Northeast face.
 
1984 On January 14, Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski of a Polish expedition made a first winter ascent via the normal route
 
1993 On May 2, Sepp Brunner, Gerhard Floßmann, Sepp Hinding and Dr. Michael Leuprecht reached the summit via the normal route and descended with ski from 7,000m to the basecamp. The Austrian expedition was guided by Arthur Haid.
 
1997 Charlie Mace makes the first American ascent.
 
2002 On May 13, five Americans and two Sherpas reach the summit. See the
 
2002 American Manaslu Expedition.
 
2006 On May 29, Australian mountaineer Sue Fear died after falling into a crevasse on her descent after summitting. She was a friend of mountaineer Lincoln Hall, who survived a night exposed near Everest's summit. 

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