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Item #: OP1475-104
CHOGOLISA: THE JAPANESE CHOGOLISA EXPEDITION 1958, 1959 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine [First Ascent, finding Buhl's diary, given to Bonatti for Mrs Buhl, Photo of Schoening holding diary]
By Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto
Price: $250.00

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Detailed Product Description
Tokyo, Asahi Newspaper, 1959, first edition. 138 pp, 88 pages of plates, some color. In Japanese. Larger hardcover book (10'' high), Fine.

This is a large book so extra postage will be requested for Priority Mail or International Mail. 

This book describes the first ascent of Chogolisa, 25,110' or Bride Peak, in the Karakoram. This expedition was led by Prof. Takeo Kuwabara and the summit was reached by M. Fujihara and K. Hirai. This was only one year after Hermann Buhl died on Chogolisa by falling through a cornice. The team found Buhl's diary and gave it to Walter Bonatti who was also there, climbing Gasherbrum IV. It did make its way to Buhl's widow, 
 
This was an important and busy year on the Baltoro Glacier. The Japanese were doing the first ascent of Chogolisa. The Italians with Cassin, Bonatti and Carlo Mauri were doing the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV. The Americans with Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufmann were doing the first ascent of Gasherbrum I as well. There is a photo of Schoening in the book. 

If anybody can translate this page, and if it is worth while, please send me a copy. Or copy it into a format that google translate can read.   




Above. Pete Schoening is being  shown Hermann Buhl's diary that the Japanese had recovered from his tent which they found on Chogolisa, just one year after Buhl died while making an attempt with Kurt Diemberger. The two had just made the first ascent of Broad Peak.  Nearby was a glorious Italian team who made the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV. Gash IV is lower that hertwo2 800 meter sisters, Gash I and Gash II but much more challenging. 

To quickly see the history of all 8 (or 10) Gasherbrums  just go to Gasherbrum on Wikpedia.

For a well written book on that Gash IV summer of 1958 on the Baltoro read Fosco Maraini's Karakoram.  

 

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