Chessler Books
Rock Climbing - Mountaineering - Exploration
New - Used - Collectible - Signed
Chessler Books Accepts PAYPAL Chessler Books Accepts VISA Chessler Books Accepts MASTERCARD Chessler Books Accepts DISCOVER CARD Chessler Books Accepts AMERICAN EXPRESS
All Orders Shipped via United States Postal Service   Chessler Books Ships Via USPS
Author:
Title:
Keyword:
Item #:
A B C D E F G H I
J K L M Mc N O P Q
R S T U V W X Y Z
Item #: OP1289-106
EVEREST 1952 Andre Roch 1952 1st ed Softcover Very Fine
By Roch, Andre
Price: $75.00

List Price: $300.00
You Save $225.00 (75%)



Add to wish list


Detailed Product Description

Switzerland, 1952, 1st edition. 110 pp, 100+ color and b/w photos. Text in French but this is primarily a photo book. Tall paperback with dust jacket (Wrappers). Wrapper is unchipped, clean and as bright as if it was just printed. 

This is a scarce, large format wrapper-bound book to commemorate the first Swiss Everest expedition of 1952. It was on this expedition that Tenzing Norgay and Raymond Lambert reached 8600 meters at the South Summit, and many feel that Tenzing certainly could have made the top. This book was written and published before plans for the second attempt was launched in the fall of 1952. Due to weather that attempt was even less successful than this one.  

The book Forerunners to Everest was produced later detailing both the Spring and Fall Swiss expeditions, of which this was the more successful. A film,  MAN AGAINST MOUNT EVEREST, was also released, combining both the Spring and Fall expeditions. We have a copy in 8mm for sale elsewhere on this website.  

Expedition supported by the SFAR Everest, spring 1952

Excerpt from: Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1939 to 1970. Published in Zurich in 1972

Participants: Dr. med. Edouard Wyss-Dunant, expedition leader; 

René Dittert, lead climber; 

Dr. med. Gabriel Chevalley, expedition doctor; 

Jean-Jacques Asper; 

René Aubert; 

Léon Flory; 

Ernest Hofstetter; 

Raymond Lambert; 

André Roch, all from Geneva. 

They were joined by a study group from the University of Geneva, made up of the geologist Prof. Dr. Augustin Lombard, the ethnologist Mme Marguerite Lobsiger and the botanist Albert Zimmermann.

Outcomes: Conquest of the Khumbu ice fall; ascent of the South Col (7986 m). Lambert and Sherpa Tenzing reached a height of about 8500 metres on the south-west ridge of Everest.

The doctor from Geneva, Edouard Wyss-Dunant, was appointed leader of this expedition. He was circumspect, calm, widely-educated and already experienced in the Himalayas. All the expedition’s participants were from Geneva, they almost all belonged to the exclusive L'Androsace climbing club, they knew each other very well, and they formed a first-class mountaineering team. There had hardly ever been such a close-knit, fully homogenous group of mountain climbers, all inspired by the same sense of enthusiasm. As well as the leader, Wyss-Dunant, Dr. Gabriel Chevalley, André Roch and Rene Dittert also had experience of the Himalayas. 

The city and Canton of Geneva provided moral and financial support for the expedition, and the University of Geneva provided the scientific contingent. It was no exaggeration to say that this was a Genevan expedition.

The task that this team had set itself in relation to mountaineering comprised primarily of the exploration of the access to the South Col, the conquest of the labyrinthine Khumbu ice fall and possibly the advance to the South Col. No attempt at an ascent of Everest was ever under consideration in this case.

The results of this first Swiss Everest expedition are remarkable, and exceeded even the most optimistic expectations. At the first attempt, they had opened up a new route to Everest, and had reached an extraordinary height on the south-western ridge in difficult conditions. In the opinion of the extremely critical Marcel Kurz, this expedition could almost be compared to a victory.

Expeditions supported by the SFAR Everest, autumn 1952

Excerpt from: Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1939 to 1970. Published in Zurich in 1972

Participants: Dr. med. Gabriel Chevalley, doctor and expedition leader; Raymond Lambert, lead climber; Jean Buzio; Gustave Gross; Ernst Reiss; Arthur Spöhel; Norman G. Dyhrenfurth, cameraman.

Outcomes: Ascent of the south-west ridge of Everest, up to a height of 8100 metres. Exploration of the Lhotse glacier. Important meteorological results. Expedition film. Comprehensive photographic records.

Approval had been granted for an additional ascent of Everest in the autumn, and the results of the spring expedition had led to new hope. Preparations were therefore made for an autumn expedition as soon as the participants had returned, in the middle of July. The intention was to have one last chance, since approval had already been granted to the British for the following year. It was intended that the new expedition should benefit directly from the experience gained previously. Only Dr. Gabriel Chevalley and Raymond Lambert were available from the past members. The former was appointed leader of the undertaking, while Lambert was appointed lead climber.

Two French-speaking Swiss men, Gustave Gross and Jean Buzio and two German-speaking Swiss men, Ernst Reiss and Arthur Spöhel were also chosen. Each of these men already had a glittering mountaineering career behind them, but no experience in the Himalayas. Time ran out before a sufficiently strong assault party could be assembled, so the gap would have to be filled by the best available Sherpas. This new team did not have the same inner cohesion as the first, nor its irresistible flair. The combination of the functions of expedition leader and doctor in the same person also proved to be less than perfect. The expedition was equipped in a record time of one month, though much more material had to be ordered because much lower temperatures were to be expected. They took new oxygen equipment and more oxygen cylinders with them.

This expedition was not blessed with particularly good luck from the very beginning. The influence of the first expedition was too powerful, although the conditions and circumstances were quite different. Nevertheless, further valuable experience was gathered. This included the proof that the Lhotse glacier was passable, and that it offered the opportunity to set camps. From a meteorological viewpoint, the expedition showed that an early-autumn period of fine weather lasting two to three months could be expected, which might present some advantages. However, the winds in the upper regions are so strong, and the temperatures so low, that these might well represent insurmountable obstacles to an ascent to the summit.



Other Items You Might Like

  • Similar Items Available
  • Items From This Author
  • Items From This Category
WALKA O SZCZYT SWIATA [FIGHT FOR THE TOP OF THE WORLD: 1952 SWISS EVEREST EXPEDITIONS] Jan Kazimierz Dorawski 1955 Softcover Near Fine
By: Dorawski, Jan
Price $19.00 ~ Regular $49.95, You Save $30.95 (62%)
- Item # OP6394-473
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MAN AGAINST MOUNT EVEREST MOVIE [Swiss Everest 1952] 1954 Castle 16mm Film
By: Everest 1952 Swiss Castle Film
Price $35.00
- Item # V4122AB-692
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
IN SYMPHONY AUSTERE Richard Frere 1989 Softcover Fine
By: Frere, Richard
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $20.00, You Save $15.01 (75%)
- Item # BK496-967
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
DER KAMPF UMS MATTERHORN [THE FIGHT FOR THE MATTERHORN Novel] Carl Haensel 1952 Softcover Near Fine
By: Haensel, Carl
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $99.95, You Save $89.96 (90%)
- Item # OP7204-164
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN VOL. XXXVII NO. 10 December 1952 Softcover Near Fine-Fine Multiple Copies Available
By: Sierra Club
Price $5.00 ~ Regular $10.00, You Save $5.00 (50%)
- Item # JR479-13613
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
PROGRESS REPORT JUNEAU ICE FIELD RESEARCH PROJECT, ALASKA 1952 Arthur F. Gilkey 1953 1st ed Softcover Near Fine
By: Gilkey, Arthur F. [The same Art Gilkey who died on K2 in 1953]
Price $19.95 ~ Regular $40.00, You Save $20.05 (50%)
- Item # OP3628-968
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE DIFFERENTIATION OF A COMPOSITE APLITE FROM THE PRIBILOF ISLANDS, ALASKA Thomas Barth 1952 Softcover Near Fine
By: Barth, Thomas F.W.
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $15.00, You Save $5.01 (33%)
- Item # OP7846-958
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
PROGRESS IN SNOWMELT INVESTIGATIONS AT THE FRASER EXPERIMENTAL FOREST: THE 1950 SNOWMELT SEASON REPORT NO. 3 (Colorado) 1952 1st ed Softcover Fine
By: USFS & Bureau of Reclamation
Price $9.95 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $40.05 (80%)
- Item # OP3630-968
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATIONS OF THE JUNEAU ICE FIELD RESEARCH PROJECT, ALASKA 1949 FIELD SEASON Maynard M. Miller 1952 1st ed Softcover Near Fine
By: Miller, Maynard M.
Price $19.95 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $30.05 (60%)
- Item # OP3625-968
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
HIMALAYA SCHWEIZERISCH EXPEDITION 1947 LOHNER-SUTTER [HIMALAYA SWISS EXPEDITION 1947 LOHNER-SUTTER] 1947 Hardcover Fine
By: Lohner, Annelies and Alfred Sutter
Price $29.99 ~ Regular $99.95, You Save $69.96 (70%)
- Item # OP6557-374
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
CLIMBS OF MY YOUTH Andre Roch 1949 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Roch, Andre
Price $19.99 ~ Regular $45.00, You Save $25.01 (56%)
- Item # OP1379-110
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
LES CONQUETES DE MA JEUNESSE [CLIMBS OF MY YOUTH] Andre Roch 1942 1st ed Softcover Near Fine
By: Roch, André
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $40.00, You Save $35.01 (88%)
- Item # OP1379A-966
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
GARHWAL HIMALAYA: EXPEDITION SUISSE 1939 [GARHWAL HIMALAYAL: SWISS EXPEDITION 1939] André Roch 1947 1st ed Recased Hardcover Fine
By: Roch, André
Price $19.99 ~ Regular $39.95, You Save $19.96 (50%)
- Item # OP2657A-110
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
CLIMBS OF MY YOUTH Andre Roch 1949 1st ed Hardcover No DJ Fine
By: Roch, Andre
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $20.00, You Save $10.01 (50%)
- Item # OP1379-928
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ATLANTA WEEKLY MAGAZINE February 26, 1984 THE 1983 MEN AND WOMEN ON EVEREST EXPEDITION
By: Atlanta Weekly, Journal and Constitution
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $35.00, You Save $25.01 (71%)
- Item # JR283-693
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SNOW IN THE KINGDOM: MY STORM YEARS ON EVEREST 2000 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine INSCRIBED by Ed Webster Multiple Copies Available
By: Webster, Ed
Price $24.95 ~ Regular $49.99, You Save $25.04 (50%)
- Item # BK1661C-1333
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST THE WEST RIDGE 2005 Softcover Fine SIGNED/DATED by Tom Hornbein 2 Copies Available
By: Hornbein, Tom
Price $45.00
- Item # BK679D-9482
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
CAMP SIX: AN ACCOUNT OF THE 1933 MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION Frank Smythe 1956 reprint Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Smythe, Frank
Price $14.99 ~ Regular $125.00, You Save $110.01 (88%)
- Item # OP374D-106
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST: THE UNFINISHED ADVENTURE Hugh Ruttledge 1937 1st UK ed Hardcover Scarce DJ Near Fine
By: Ruttledge, Hugh
Price $350.00 ~ Regular $450.00, You Save $100.00 (22%)
- Item # OP364D-965p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
LAST CLIMB: THE LEGENDARY EVEREST EXPEDITIONS OF GEORGE MALLORY LIMITED EDITION Audrey Salkeld and David Breashears 1999 1st ed Hardcover Limited Ed
By: Salkeld, Audrey and David Breashears
Price $39.99 ~ Regular $65.00, You Save $25.01 (38%)
- Item # BK635-952p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
HIGH CONQUEST THE STORY OF MOUNTAINEERING James Ramsey Ullman 1941 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Ullman, James Ramsey
Price $25.00 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $25.00 (50%)
- Item # OP1396-103
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE TURQUOISE MOUNTAIN: BRIAN BLESSED ON EVEREST Brian Blessed 1991 1st UK ed Hardcover DJ Fine
By: Blessed, Brian
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $24.95, You Save $14.96 (60%)
- Item # BK150-967
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE MOUNTAINEER'S COMPANION Michael Ward 1966 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine-Fine 2 Copies Available
By: Ward, Michael
Price $19.95 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $30.05 (60%)
- Item # OP391-9492
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST: THE MOUNTAINEERING HISTORY Walt Unsworth 2000 3rd ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Chris Bonington
By: Unsworth, Walt
Price $49.95
- Item # BK1595B-949
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart