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Item #: OP133B-106p
KARAKORAM AND WESTERN HIMALAYA 1909: 2 Volumes Filippo de Filippi London 1912 1st UK edition Deluxe Half Vellum Binding. Near Fine
By Filippi, Filippo de, Photos by Vittorio Sella
Price: $2900.00


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Full Title: KARAKORAM AND WESTERN HIMALAYA 1909: AN ACCOUNT OF THE EXPEDITION OF H.R.H. PRINCE LUIGI AMEDEO OF SAVOY, DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI

This is a handsome example of a book that truly celebrates the Golden Age of Himalayan Mountaineering. For many collectors this is the crown jewel of books on the 8000 meter peaks.

London, Constable, 1912, 1st UK edition. 2 volumes including a 2nd volume box with panoramas and maps. 469 pp. Preface by H.R.H. the Duke of the Abbruzzi. Translated by Caroline De Filippi & H.T. Porter. Text volume illustrated with 27 photogravure plates, including the frontispiece, with printed tissue guards; 5 double-page panoramas (2 with 2 images); numerous illustrations in the text; all from photographs by Vittorio Sella; plus 2 color plates of rocks. Box volume with 18 folding panoramas (on 17 sheets) from photographs by Vittorio Sella, and 3 folding maps; all laid in loose, as issued, along with a booklet listing the illustrations and giving an index to the work. Both 26.3x21 cm (10x8"), in vellum-backed green cloth, gilt-lettered spine, fresh front endpapers in text volume. 

Condition: Both volumes have good solid bindings with no evidence of repairs.  The pages are clean with no stains or foxing.  This is a Presentation copy embossment on title page. Bookseller label on front pastedown. The Vellum binding is somewhat soiled, with faded lettering on atlas spine, exterior cloth shows dampstaining and light rippling, with rubbing at the extremities; slight bump to lower right corner of textblock; the panoramas are loose in their case as issued with some ill-creasing, bumped corners and toning; Condition is Very Good or Near Fine. 

This book is heavy so extra postage will be requested for Media, Priority and International Mail. 

There are 2 Rubber Stamps Marks (RSM) of ''The Glasgow Herald Library,'' one on each side of the title page, but with no library spine marks, no pockets,  no bookplates, no RSM's on the plates. This was not a library as we use the term. It was the internal research library of a Scottish newspaper founded in 1783. The Herald is the longest running national newspaper in the world and is the eighth oldest daily paper in the world. The title was simplified from The Glasgow Herald in 1992.

Detailed and profusely illustrated account of an important expedition to the Roof of the World, with spectacular views of the towering peaks and formidable glaciers. Luigi Amedeo of Savoy, The Duke of the Abruzzi made an attempt on K2 in May 1909, accompanied by guides and porters from Courmayeur, Italy on the Italian side of Mont Blanc. They reached 6250m on the SE or Abruzzi Ridge but were turned back by the difficulty of the route. The expedition explored, mapped and photographed the Baltoro Glacier area. This route has now become the standard route taken by most parties. There is no safe and easy way up K2. The route they pioneered, now called the Abruzzi Ridge, sees over 75% of all ascents. 

As of February 2022, only 377 people have completed the ascent to K2's summit and there have been 91 deaths during attempted climbs. On Everest 305 people have died, but 6098 people have summited, and they have done it 10,656 times! K2 is much harder and deadlier, and rescue is more remote and unlikely. 

K2, the world's second highest mountain, is in the Karakoram, a great mountain system in Northeast Pakistan and Northern India near the Chinese border. It extends 300 miles southeastwardly from the Pamir Knot, and includes many of the world's highest peaks, and many of the world's longest glaciers. Among the high peaks is K2 (8611 m), the second highest mountain in the world. Its glaciers include, among others, the 47-mile Siachen glacier, the 36-mile Baltoro glacier, and the 76-mile combination of Hispar and Biafo, which connect at a pass.
 
The Baltoro glacier is especially significant, as ten of the world's thirty highest peaks cluster around it, including four 8,000 meter peaks, K2, Broad Peak and three peaks of the Gashberbrum massif, that rise very close together at the northeast head of the glacier. The Karakoram closely parallels the Himalaya, but its peaks differ from those of the Himalaya in their sharp, angular forms. Their icy peaks are often surrounded by incredible clusters of towers and spires.
 
The Karakoram also receives less monsoon activity than the Nepal Himalaya. In fact, many of the valleys deep in the range are very dry. The peaks, however, receive heavy winter precipitation, and, with or without monsoon rains, travel is made difficult by the run-off of melting snow and ice in July and August, which otherwise are the best months for mountaineering. The range is largely uninhabited, so approach to the mountains requires expedition-style planning.
 


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