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Item #: OP646DAB-104
ACHTTAUSEND: DRUBER UND DRUNTER [NANGA PARBAT PILGRIMAGE] 1954 1st Austrian edition Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Kurt Diemberger
By Buhl, Hermann
Price: $65.00


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SIGNED by Kurt Diemberger

Donauland, Wien 1954, 1st Austrian edition. 288 pp, 20 photos. In German.   Hardcover with a "frosty" photo of Buhl on the DJ, DJ and book are in  Fine condition.  

Hermann Buhl was one of the greatest Alpine and Himalayan climbers of all time, and is most famous for making the first ascent of Nanga Parbat solo and without oxygen. This is one of the classics of the literature. He died while descending from Chogolisa with Diemberger.

Hermann Buhl (September 21, 1924 - June 27, 1957) is considered one of the best post-war Austrian climbers and one of the best climbers of all time. His accomplishments include: 1953 First ascent of Nanga Parbat, 8,125 metres (26,658 ft.) 1957 First ascent of Broad Peak, 8,047 metres (26,400 ft.) Before his successful Nanga Parbat expedition, 31 people had already died trying to make the first ascent. 

Buhl is the only mountaineer to have made the first ascent of an Eight-thousander solo. Just a few weeks after their success on Broad Peak, Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted nearby Chogolisa peak (7,654 metres). Buhl died when he fell through a cornice on the SE ridge near the summit of Chogolisa. His body has never been found.

Only one year later his diary was found by Japanese climbers while making the first ascent of Chogolisa. There were three notable basecamps next to each other on the Baltoro Glacier that spring of 1958. The Japanese were there for Chogolisa, Americans for Gasherbrum I or Hidden Peak, and the Italians making the first ascent of the difficult Gasherbrum IV. Everybody got to see the diary and it was intrusted to no less a legend than Walter Bonatti to take the diary home to Europe and finally to Buhl's widow.  


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