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Item #: OP1727E-882
THE TETON MOUNTAINS: THEIR HISTORY AND TRADITION WITH AN ACCOUNT OF... THE INSPIRING PEAKS. Nolie Mumey 1947 1st ed Hardcover Very Fine SIGNED AND NUMBERED # 472
By Mumey, Nolie
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Full Title: 

THE TETON MOUNTAINS: THEIR HISTORY AND TRADITIONS WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE EARLY FUR TRADE, TRAPPERS, MISSIONARIES, MOUNTAIN MEN AND EXPLORERS WHO BLAZED THE TRAILS AROUND THE INSPIRING PEAKS.

Denver, 1947, 1st edition. 462 pp, 130 photos.  Uncut (page edges left ragged.) Thick hardcover, Bright and Fine. This copy has a spine title label which appears on about half the copies. Underneath the label the title is stamped in gold.  This copy is pretty much flawless.  A very handsome book that will probably out shine most of your other books on American climbing!

NO. 472 OF A 700 COPY LIMITED EDITION SIGNED BY NOLIE MUMEY.

This is perhaps the major work on the Tetons. It includes information on early ascents and attempts on the peaks. It is one of the most handsome and scholarly books done on any of America's Mountain Ranges. Nolie Mumey 1891-1984 was a Denver physician and historian of the American West, who wrote and published about 100 books about the West and other subjects that interested him. 

He was not a climber, but this book of his telling the stories of the exploration and settlement of NW Wyoming, and the historic climbs of the Tetons was his best selling book. That is partly because it tells the colorful story of the Tetons better than any book previous or later. The book is also a wonderful example of the book binding craft, with a handsome binding, excellent paper, a beautiful linen cover, and of course the ''exclusivity'' of being Signed and Numbered. 

The Tetons

Grand Teton is the highest mountain within Grand Teton National Park, and the second highest in the U.S. state of Wyoming (after Gannet Peak in the Wind River Range). The origin of the name is controversial. The most common explanation is that 'Grand Teton' means 'large teat' in French, named by either French-Canadian or Iroquois members of an expedition led by Donald McKenzie of the Northwest Company. However, other historians disagree, and claim that the was named after the Teton Sioux tribe of Native Americans.

There is a controversy over who made the first ascent of Grand Teton. Nathaniel Langford and James Stevenson claimed to reach the summit on July 29, 1872. However, their description and sketches match the summit of The Enclosure, a side peak of Grand Teton. The Enclosure is named after a man-made palisade of rocks on its summit, probably constructed by Native Americans. When William O. Owen climbed the true summit, he found no trace of prior human passage. Therefore, The Enclosure was probably first climbed by Native Americans, and the true summit was first climbed by William Owen.

Grand Teton can be climbed with minimal gear via the Owen-Spalding route (5.5). However, it is highly exposed and experience is recommended. The Owen-Spalding route is named after the climbers who made the first claimed ascent: William Owen, Franklin Spalding, Frank Peterson and John Shive. There is some debate as to which person made the first ascent; however most agree this group was the first. Their route begins at the Upper Saddle which is reached by walking from Lupine Meadows Trailhead, up Garnet Canyon, to the Lower Saddle.

Another famous route up the mountain is the Exum Ridge route (5.6), a 13-pitch exposed route first climbed by Glenn Exum, co-founder of Exum Mountain Guides. This route, too, can be found on the southern face of the mountain. The Owen-Spalding and Exum Ridge routes can be climbed from the base of the mountain at Lupine Meadows in one long day but the average person takes two days (a permit is required for an overnight stay in the backcountry). Routes up the north face are more difficult but famous in the climbing world.

The Grand Teton can also be skied in the winter. The first descent on skis was made by Bill Briggs in the spring of 1971; a route on the Owen-Spalding is now named in his honor.

 

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