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Item #: OP7823AB-966p
A PHOTOGRAPHIC RECORD OF THE MOUNT SHISHA PANGMA SCIENTIFIC EXPEDITION [CHINA] 1966 1st Ascent 1st ed In English Hardcover DJ Fine
By China, Science Press and Shih Ya-Feng (Expedition Leader)
Price: $550.00

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Above: Shishapangma First ascent 2 May 1964 by the Chinese expedition.

Peking China, Science Press, 1966, 1st edition. 90 pp, many color and b/w photos. The text and captions are all entirely in English.  It is a larger format hardcover with a dust jacket. The front board is slightly canted, otherwise  Fine condition.

This book is not heavy, but it is larger than average, 11 1/2'' x 9 1/4'', so extra postage will be requested for Priority Mail or International Mail. 

This is THE book about the true first ascent of Shishapangma, the only 8000 meter peak entirely in Tibet, and the last one to be climbed. It was actually published in English just two years after the climb, but there was little interest until the 1990s when climbing the peak became more common. It is very hard to find, and this is our first copy in several years! 
 
Shishapangma, also called Gosainthan, is the fourteenth-highest mountain in the world and, at 8,013 m (26,289 ft), the lowest of the eight-thousanders. It was the last 8,000 metre peak to be climbed, due to its location entirely within Tibet and the restrictions on visits by foreigners to the region imposed by Tibetan and Chinese authorities.

Shishapangma was first climbed via the northwest face and northeast ridge and face ('Northern Route') on 2 May 1964 by a Chinese expedition led by Shih Ya-Feng. In addition, the summit team consisted of Zhang Jnyn, Wang Fuzhou, Wu Zongyu, Chn San, Soinam Dorj, Chng Tianling, Migmar Zhaxi, Mima Zhxi, Dorj  and Yn Deng.

Up to 2020, 31 people have died climbing Shishapangma, including Alex Lowe and Dave Bridges, both USA, in 1999, and veteran Portuguese climber Bruno Carvalho. Nevertheless, Shishapangma is one of the easier eight-thousanders to climb.
 
The standard route ascends from the north side, and boasts relatively easy access, with vehicle travel possible to base camp at 5,000 m, 16,400 feet. Routes on the steeper southwest face are more technically demanding and involve 2,200 metres, 7,218 feet of ascent on a 50-degree slope.

This is the climbing history of Shishapangma from Wikipedia as of 2021:

First ascent

Shishapangma was first climbed via the Northern Route on 2 May 1964 by a Chinese expedition led by Xǔ Jng. In addition to Xǔ Jng, the summit team consisted of Zhāng Jnyn, Wang Fuzhou, Wū Zōngyu, Chn Sān, Soinam Dorj, Chng Tiānling, Migmar Zhaxi, Dorj, and Yn Dēng.

Later ascents and attempts

1980 7 May, "Northern Route", second ascent by Michael Dacher, Wolfgang Schaffert, Gunter Sturm, Fritz Zintl, Sigi Hupfauer and Manfred Sturm (12 May); as part of a German expedition.

1980: 13 October, "Northern Route", 3rd ascent by Ewald Putz and Egon Obojes, as part of an Austrian expedition.

1981: 30 April, "Northern Route", 4th ascent by Junko Tabei, Rinzing Phinzo and Gyalbu Jiabu, as part of a Japanese women's expedition.

1981: 28 May, "Northern Route", 5th ascent by Reinhold Messner and Friedl Mutschlechner, as part of an Austrian expedition.

1982: 28 May, "British Route", southwest face, also known as "Right-hand couloir," alpine style, FA by Doug Scott, Alex Macintyre and Roger Baxter-Jones, all UK. Route follows the right-hand couloir on the southwest face

1987: 18 September, Elsa vila and Carlos Carsolio become the first Mexicans to summit Shishapangma. For vila, her first eight-thousander and for Carsolio, his second, via the northern face/ridge to the central summit, then along the arete to the main summit, with Wanda Rutkiewicz, Ramiro Navarrete, and Ryszard Warecki.

1987: 18 September, west ridge, FA by Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer, both Poland. A new route along the ridge west, by the western summit, first entry, and continue through by the middle summit on the main summit. Kukuczka skied down from near the summit. This was his last of fourteen eight-thousanders.

1987: 19 September, central couloir, north face, FA by Alan Hinkes, UK and Steve Untch, US.

1989: 19 October, Central buttress, southwest face, FA by Andrej Stremfelj and Pavle Kozjek.

1990: Left-hand couloir, southwest face, not reaching the main summit, Wojciech Kurtyka, Poland, FA by Erhard Loretan, Switzerland and Jean Troillet, Switzerland.

1993: Far-right couloir, southwest face, FA solo by Krzysztof Wielicki, Poland.

1993: May 22, Marcos Couch and Nicols De la Cruz, Argentinian expedition.

1994: Left-hand couloir, southwest face, not reaching the main summit, Erik Decamp, France, Catherine Destivelle, France.

1996: 9 October, Anatoli Boukreev completed a solo ascent.

1999: 28 September, Edmond Joyeusaz, Italy. first ski descent from central summit.

2002: 5 May, "Korean Route" on southwest face, FA by Park Jun Hun and Kang Yeon Ryoung, both South Korea.

2002 26 October: Toma Humar, Slovenia, Maxut Zhumayev, Denis Urubko, Alexey Raspopov and Vassily Pivtsov got to the summit. Toma Humar climbed last 200 m (80/5060, 200 m) of ascent and descent (6575, 700 m)

2004: 11 December, Jean-Christophe Lafaille, France provokes controversy when he climbs the "British Route" on the southwest face, solo, and claims a winter ascent. Since this was not calendar winter, he changes his claim to an ascent "in winter conditions."

2005: 14 January, first (calendar) winter ascent by Piotr Morawski, Poland and Simone Moro, Italy.

2011: 1617 April, Ueli Steck, Switzerland solos the southwest face in 10.5 hours, leaving base camp, 5,306m at 10:30 pm on 16 April and returning to base camp 20 hours later.

2014: September 24, Sebastian Haag died together with the Italian mountaineer Andrea Zambaldi in an avalanche. Haag was 36 years old.

2018: May 3, Bulgarian climber Boyan Petrov disappeared after having been last seen at Camp 3, ~7,400 m. A subsequent two-week long search effort found only a few personal items and medicine.


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