London, George Allen & Unwin, 1971, 1st edition. 344 pp, 88 b/w photos, 8 maps and sketches, index. Blue cloth hardcover with no dust jacket. Book has a faded spine and former owner's RSM on front cover (faint) and frontend paper. Near Fine.
Translated by Hugh Merrick. Diemberger made first ascents of Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri. One of the most desirable and well-written Himalayan books.
Kurt Diemberger (born 1932 in Austria), is the only remaining person alive that has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent of Dhaulagiri. Diemberger was also the last person to see Hermann Buhl alive before he fell through a cornice on Chogolisa. Diemberger was one of only two survivors in the 1986 K2 Disaster. On August 4, 1986, Diemberger and Julie Tullis reached the summit of K2 very late in the day.
