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Item #: OP473F-246
KANGCHENJUNGA: THE UNTRODDEN PEAK Charles Evans 1956 1st US edition DJ Fine
By Evans, Charles
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Detailed Product Description
New York, 1957, 1st US edition. 187 pp, 32 B&W photos, 2 maps, 5 diagrams. Black hardcover with gold lettering and embossed image of Kangchenjunga. Dust jacket, Near Fine. 

First ascent of the third highest peak in the Himalaya by George Band and Joe Brown in 1955. In only three years, Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga fell. 

Account of the British Expedition led by Everester Charles Evans via the SW Face using oxygen. The now classic route follows the Yalung Glacier to the base of the SW Face, over the Western Buttress to the Great Shelf which lies below the amphitheater formed by the Main summit and Yalung Kang.
 
Above the Great Shelf the route is pushed up The Gangway to near the West Ridge, where the pinnacled ridge crest is avoided by climbing the headwall until the summit ridge can be reached. The first assault pair of Joe Brown and George Band are successful, followed by a second successful ascent by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather. Out of respect for local beliefs, the actual summit itself remained virgin, a tradition that continued until recent years.

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