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Item #: BK4284A-2865
BEYOND POSSIBLE: ONE SOLDIER, FOURTEEN PEAKS: MY LIFE IN THE DEATH ZINE Nirmal Purja 2020 Rare 1st UK ed 3rd or 4th prtg New Hardcover DJ
By Purja, Nirmal "Nims"
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UK, 2020, 1st UK edition, 3rd or 4th  printing. 305 pp, 38 color photos. New hardcover with dust jacket.

Nimdai (also called Nirmal or Nims) Purja set a record in the Karakoram in January 16, 2021. He was part of an all Sherpa group that made the first winter ascent of K2.  It was the only 8000er that had not yet been climbed in winter.

But his bigger accomplishment was climbing all fourteen 8000 meter mountains in only 6 months, 6 days, with supplemental oxygen. He beat the previous record by a staggering 8 years!  That record was set my legendary Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka in 1998.

This was also a big accomplishment for all Nepal climbers as three all Nepali teams joined forces for the climb.  He did that in 2019.

What made this possible was the Covid Pandemic of 2020 that closed off most climbing in the Himalaya. Most of the climbers are professional guides, and would never have had the time during prime climbing season as they would have been guiding clients up Everest and the other 8000ers.

Of course most people, perhaps including Sherpa climbers themselves, see these accomplishments as one of great climbing ability. But anybody who has faced that wall where they are facing their physical limit knows what allows success is determination. Willpower. Mallory had it, Hillary and Tenzing had it, Bonatti and Cassin had it.  Alex Honnold has it. That is what sets these climbers apart from the rest of us.

Nirmal  or ''Nimsdai" or "Nims" Purja MBE, born 1982, is a Nepalese mountaineer and former Gurkha and soldier of the Special Boat Service (SBS), an elite special forces unit of the United Kingdom's Royal Navy, which is analogous to the US Navy Seals. Nirmal Purja was born in the Myagdi district near Dhaulagiri, at 1600 m above sea level and grew up in Chitwan District.

He joined the Brigade of Gurkhas in 2003 and the Special Boat Service in 2009, becoming the first Gurkha to pass the selection for SBS. He later served in the elite special forces as a cold-weather warfare specialist. He quit the military in 2018 as a Lance Corporal to focus on his mountaineering career.

He made his first major climb in 2012, reaching the summit of Lobuche East without any previous experience as a mountaineer.

On May 18, 2014, he made his first ascent of an eight-thousander by summiting Dhaulagiri, 8167 meters, during a round trip of only 5 days.

On May 13, 2016, Purja summited Mount Everest, his second eight-thousander.

On May 15, 2017, Purja led the Gurkha Expedition "G200E", which summited Everest together with 13 Gurkhas to commemorate 200 years of Gurkha service to the British Army.

On June 9, 2018, he was appointed a Member of the Order of the British Empire, MBE, by Queen Elizabeth II for his outstanding work in high altitude mountaineering.

Project Possible 14/7

With a plan to complete all14 summits in seven months, Purja made his first eight-thousander summit on April 23, 2019 and completed the first six-summit phase of his "Project Possible 14/7" on May 24, 2019: Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu.

He climbed with Sherpas Mingma Gyabu “David” Sherpa, Lakpa Dendi, Geljen Sherpa and Tensi Kasang, amongst other mountaineers. The last five summits were climbed in only 12 days. He broke his previous Guinness World Record by climbing Mount Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu within 2 days and 30 minutes.

Purja completed the second phase in July, 2019, climbing Nanga Parbat, 8126m on July 6), Gasherbrum I (8010 m, July 15), Gasherbrum II (8035 m, July 18 2019, K2, 8611m, July 24, 2019 and Broad Peak, 8047m, on July 26, these  peaks are all in Pakistan.

The third and last phase started in September 2019. He summited Cho Oyu, 8188m from Tibet on September 23 and Manaslu, 8163m in Nepa) on September 27. On October 1, 2019, Chinese authorities agreed to grant Purja and his team a special permit to scale Shishapangma, 8027m in Tibet, in the fall season, at the request of the Nepali government. Purja left Nepal for Tibet on October 18, 2019, leading a five-member expedition to climb the mountain and completed Project Possible 14/7 with a successful summit on October 29 using supplemental oxygen.

Other than the fastest ascent with supplemental oxygen of the 14 tallest mountains in the world, Purja broke the following records: most 8000 m mountains in the Spring season, climbing six; most 8000m mountains in the summer season, climbing five; fastest summit of the three highest mountains in the world, Everest, K2 and Kanchenjunga; fastest summit of the five highest mountains in the World, Everest, K2, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu; fastest lower 8000ers, Gasherbrum 1, 2 and Broad Peak; fastest higher 8000ers, consecutive summits of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu in 48 hours, beating his own previous record of 5 days.

K2 Winter Ascent January 2021

Nirmal Purja, along with nine other Nepali mountaineers made history on January 16, 2021 as the first to ascend K2 in the harsh weather conditions of the winter. His team consisting of Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Geljen Sherpa, Pem Chiri Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa and himself, joined by the team of Mingma G, Dawa Tenjin Sherpa and Kilu Pemba Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa from Seven Summits Treks and successfully ascended K2 at 17:00 local time in Pakistan.  This is the first successful K2 winter expedition after numerous attempts since 1987.

After terrible weather conditions hit the lower camps at the foot of K2 and some equipment was lost, Nepali mountaineers of these three teams decided to join efforts and climb the peak together, as a team.

Nims may have never seen this quotation, but he would certainly agree with it:

Persistence

Nothing in this world can take the place of persistence.
Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful people with talent.
Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb.
Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts.
Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent.

Calvin Coolidge


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