Chessler Books
Rock Climbing - Mountaineering - Exploration
New - Used - Collectible - Signed
Chessler Books Accepts PAYPAL Chessler Books Accepts VISA Chessler Books Accepts MASTERCARD Chessler Books Accepts DISCOVER CARD Chessler Books Accepts AMERICAN EXPRESS
All Orders Shipped via United States Postal Service   Chessler Books Ships Via USPS
Author:
Title:
Keyword:
Item #:
A B C D E F G H I
J K L M Mc N O P Q
R S T U V W X Y Z
Item #: OP264A-931
RECORD A L'HIMALAYA [WHITE FURY: GAURISANKAR AND CHO OYU] Raymond Lambert, Claude Kogan 1955 1st ed Softcover Wrappers Fine
By Lambert, Raymond and Claude Kogan
Price: $35.00

List Price: $75.00
You Save $40.00 (53%)



Add to wish list


Detailed Product Description
Paris, 1955, 1st French edition. 315 pp, b/w photos. In French. Softcover with stiff wrappers. Page edges have yellowed and many are still uncut. Fine condition.

French-Swiss reconnaissance of Gaurisankar, Cho Oyu and Menlungtse in 1954. [Neate L05.] Account of the Franco-Swiss expedition of 1954, reconnoitering the difficult Gaurisankar (7145m) and Menlungtse.

The party then attempted Cho Oyu (8156m) being beaten by winter gales. Lambert, a Swiss guide, made an heroic attempt to gain Everest's south summit in 1952. Claude Kogan, a leading French climber, died on Cho Oyu in 1959. 

Wikipedia: Raymond Lambert (18 October 1914 – 25 February 1997) was a Swiss mountaineer, who with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay reached an altitude of 8611 metres (just 237 metres from the summit) of Mount Everest in May 1952. By that time it was the highest point that a climber had ever reached. There was a second Swiss expedition in autumn 1952, but a party including Lambert and Tenzing was forced to turn back at a slightly lower point. The following year Tenzing returned with Edmund Hillary to reach the summit on 29 May 1953.

He was born Raymond Jules Eugene Lambert in Geneva, where he made his home for his entire life. Lambert was member to a group of elite Genevois climbers. With this group, Lambert tested his skills against French, German and Italian rivals to become the first ascenders of the hardest new climbs in the Mont Blanc Range.

Second ascents of the Croz Spur on the Grandes Jorasses and the North Face of the Drus (where his name is immortalised in the Fissure Lambert) put him at the forefront of international mountaineering; however, it was one climb in particular, in 1938, that gave Lambert true legendary status: a winter ascent of the Aiguilles Diables. Caught in a violent February storm, the climbing party found themselves stranded on the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Lambert was the only one capable of contacting rescue. After three days sheltering in a crevasse, all of Lambert's toes were severely frostbitten. Subsequently, all of his toes were amputated.

Everest

Within a year after the amputation, Lambert was climbing again. His mountaineering career continued through the Second World War and in 1952 he was an obvious choice for Edouard Wyss-Dunant's Genevois expedition to Everest. Tibet was now closed to foreigners but Nepal had just opened up.

The previous year Eric Shipton's British-New Zealand reconnaissance had climbed the Khumbu Icefall and reached the elusive Western Cwm, proving that Everest could be climbed from Nepal. Unfortunately for the British, who had enjoyed exclusive access to the mountain for 21 years, the Nepal government gave the 1952 permit to the Swiss. Building on Shipton's experience, the Genevans reached the head of the Western Cwm and climbed the huge face above to the desolate, wind-swept plateau of the South Col. Three Swiss climbers and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay continued towards the summit, pitching a tent at 8,400m. Two returned, leaving Tenzing and Lambert, who had become firm friends, to make a summit attempt.

High altitude mountaineering in 1952 was still in its infancy. Even Swiss organisation and technology were not up to the job and, apart from Tenzing, the Sherpas had little experience. Despite the best plans, Tenzing and Lambert now had to spend a night at 8,400m with no sleeping bags and no stove, producing a trickle of drinking water by melting snow over a candle.

The oxygen sets were barely operable and when the two men continued in the morning, they were effectively climbing without oxygen. They struggled heroically, at times crawling on all fours, hindered by the dead weight of malfunctioning oxygen sets, finally grinding to a halt near 8595m, approximately 250m short of the summit.

Assuming that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did not reach higher in 1924, this was the highest than anyone had ever been. Lambert's extraordinary determination was further confirmed that autumn when, alone out of the spring team, he returned for the second Swiss attempt on Everest. This time he and Tenzing were driven back from the South Col by the November jet stream winds and, to the immense relief of the British team, preparing for 1953, the Swiss admitted defeat.

After Everest

Lambert returned to Nepal in 1954, trespassing across the Tibetan frontier to attempt Gaurisankar, and in 1955 to make the first ascent with Eric Gauchat and Claude Kogan of Ganesh I (7,429m). Subsequent expeditions took him to Pakistan and South America. Then in 1959 he embarked on a completely new career and by 1963, now married with two children, he was a fully qualified glacier pilot, flying to remote and inaccessible icy areas - a vocation which brought him considerable fame until he finally stopped flying in 1987 at the age of 72.

Honor & Respect

John Hunt recalls meeting Raymond Lambert in 1953 to learn as much as he could about the Swiss attempt on Everest: 'Despite their disappointment, the Swiss were most helpful. However, Raymond told me tactfully, `Monsieur Colonel, vous aurez gros problemes', meaning, that we hadn't a hope in hell [You will have big problems.].'

On 26 May 1953, exactly a year after Lambert's attempt, Hunt himself photographed the skeletal remains of the tent at 8,400m. Said Hunt: 'It brought home the significance of their performance and made me force myself 50m higher up the ridge, to deposit the supplies for our final camp.' Three days later Tenzing and Hillary reached the summit.

On the way home, the team stopped off at Zurich airport and met the Swiss trailblazers again. Lord Hunt recalls: "They offered us unreserved applause. In later years Raymond and I became close friends. He was not a demonstrative person, but the warmth of personality, once bestowed, was very precious to me."

Other Items You Might Like

  • Similar Items Available
  • Items From This Author
  • Items From This Category
MAN AGAINST MOUNT EVEREST MOVIE [Swiss Everest 1952] 1954 Castle 8 mm Film
By: Everest Swiss Castle Film
Price $21.99
- Item # V4122AB-677
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1955 Last Copy
By: American Alpine Club 1955
Price $45.00 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $30.00 (40%)
- Item # AAJ1955-539
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE ASCENT OF ALPAMAYO: AN ACCOUNT OF THE FRANCO-BELGIAN EXPEDITION TO THE CORDILLERA BLANCA IN THE HIGH ANDES Georges Kogan, Nicole Leininger 1954 1st UK ed Hardcover Near Fine
By: Kogan, Georges and Nicole Leininger
Price $45.00 ~ Regular $65.00, You Save $20.00 (31%)
- Item # OP1734A-498
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ALPINISME POLAIRE: L'EXPEDITION MAILLARD AU SPITZBERG [POLAR MOUNTAINEERING: THE MAILLARD EXPEDITION IN SPITSBERGEN] 1951 1st ed Softcover Near Fine SIGNED by Bernard Cabanes
By: Cabanes, Bernard
Price $25.00 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $25.00 (50%)
- Item # PL5338-412
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MON ODYSSEE MONTAGNARDE [THIS MY VOYAGE] Tom Longstaff 1955 1st French ed Paperback with wrappers Near Fine
By: Longstaff, Tom
Price $3.99 ~ Regular $40.00, You Save $36.01 (90%)
- Item # OP1794C-584
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AVANT PREMIERES A L'EVEREST [FORERUNNERS TO EVEREST: THE STORY OF THE TWO SWISS EXPEDITIONS OF 1952] Gabriel Chevalley, Dittert, Lambert 1953 1st ed Softover Near Fine
By: Chevalley, Gabriel, Rene Dittert and Raymond Lambert
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $40.01 (80%)
- Item # OP37B-178
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
REGARDS VERS L'ANNAPURNA [MEMORIES OF ANNAPURNA] 1951 1st ed Softcover Near Fine SIGNED by Maurice Herzog
By: Herzog, Maurice and Marcel Ichac
Price $129.00 ~ Regular $250.00, You Save $121.00 (48%)
- Item # OP852A-718
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
DAS WUNDERLAND DER DOLOMITEN [THE WONDERS OF THE DOLOMITES] Georg Neumann c. 1930 Softcover Very Good
By: Neumann, Georg
Price $19.99 ~ Regular $99.95, You Save $79.96 (80%)
- Item # OP6547-374
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SNOW COVER AND CLIMATE IN THE SIERRA NEVADA CALIFORNIA David H. Miller 1955 Softcover Fine Rare
By: Miller, David H.
Price $29.00 ~ Regular $99.95, You Save $70.95 (71%)
- Item # OP6470-406
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
WALKA O SZCZYT SWIATA [FIGHT FOR THE TOP OF THE WORLD] Jan Kazimierz Dorawski 1955 Softcover Near Fine
By: Dorawski, Jan
Price $19.00 ~ Regular $49.95, You Save $30.95 (62%)
- Item # OP6394-473
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
Sorry, we were unable find any similar items available by this author.


VALLESIAE DESCRIPTIO LIBRO DVO DE ALPIBUS COMMENTARIUS [VALLESIAE DESCRIPTION OF TWO BOOKS: THE ALPINE DIARY] Josia Simler 1970 Facsimile Hardcover Fine
By: Simler, Josia
Price $29.00 ~ Regular $99.95, You Save $70.95 (71%)
- Item # OP3946-942
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
CALIFORNIA CONQUERED: THE ANNEXATION OF A MEXICAN PROVINCE 1846-1850 Neal Harlow 1989 Paperback Near Fine
By: Harlow, Neal
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $99.95, You Save $89.96 (90%)
- Item # OP6873-792
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST DIARY: BASED ON THE PERSONAL DIARY OF LUTE JERSTAD John D. McCallum 1966 1st ed DJ Very Good-Near Fine 2 Copies Available [Not Signed]
By: McCallum, John and Lute Jerstad
Price $19.99 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $30.01 (60%)
- Item # OP344C-7532
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE CLIMB: TRAGIC AMBITIONS ON EVEREST Anatoli Boukreev 1997 1st edition Hardcover DJ New SIGNED postcard from Gasherbrum II Anatoli Boukreev
By: Boukreev, Anatoli and G. Weston Dewalt
Price $349.95
- Item # OP2284AB-877
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE ASCENT [Novel] Jeff Long 1992 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine Multiple Copies Available [Not Signed]
By: Long, Jeff
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $20.00, You Save $15.01 (75%)
- Item # BK884A-5393
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
GARHWAL HIMALAYA: EXPEDITION SUISSE 1939 [HIMALAYAN GARHWAL: SWISS EXPEDITION 1939] Andre Roch 1947 1st ed Softcover Near Fine
By: Roch, Andrι
Price $19.99 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $30.01 (60%)
- Item # OP2657B-753
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST: EXPEDITION TO THE ULTIMATE 1979 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine 3 Copies Available [Not Signed]
By: Messner, Reinhold
Price $29.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $121.00 (81%)
- Item # BK52E-9423
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SECOND DEATH OF GEORGE MALLORY: THE ENIGMA AND SPIRIT OF MOUNT EVEREST Reinhold Messner 2001 1st ed Hardcover DJ New Multiple Copies Available
By: Messner, Reinhold
Price $1.99 ~ Regular $23.95, You Save $21.96 (92%)
- Item # BK1038-8530
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE ASCENT OF DENALI Hudson Stuck 1989 Paperback Near Fine 2 Copies Available
By: Stuck, Hudson
Price $1.99 ~ Regular $15.00, You Save $13.01 (87%)
- Item # OP1503G-2122
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE SPOILS OF ARART Robert Katz 1978 1st ed DJ
By: Katz, Robert
Price $5.00
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
偽物ブランド γƒ–γƒ©γƒ³γƒ‰γƒ«γ‚€γƒ΄γ‚£γƒˆγƒ³γ‚³γƒ”γƒΌ