RECORD A L'HIMALAYA [WHITE FURY: GAURISANKAR AND CHO OYU] Raymond Lambert, Claude Kogan 1955 1st ed Softcover Wrappers Fine (Lambert, Raymond and Claude Kogan)

	Item #: OP264A-935 RECORD A L'HIMALAYA [WHITE FURY: GAURISANKAR AND CHO OYU] Raymond Lambert, Claude Kogan 1955 1st ed Softcover Wrappers Fine By Lambert, Raymond and Claude Kogan Price: $35.00 List Price: $75.00 You Save $40.00 (53%) Add to wish list Click Here For Related Selections
Detailed Product Description
Paris, 1955, 1st French edition. 315 pp, b/w photos. In French. Softcover with stiff wrappers. Page edges have yellowed and many are still uncut. Fine condition. French-Swiss reconnaissance of Gaurisankar, Cho Oyu and Menlungtse in 1954. [Neate L05.] Account of the Franco-Swiss expedition of 1954, reconnoitering the difficult Gaurisankar (7145m) and Menlungtse. The party then attempted Cho Oyu (8156m) being beaten by winter gales. Lambert, a Swiss guide, made an heroic attempt to gain Everest's south summit in 1952. Claude Kogan, a leading French climber, died on Cho Oyu in 1959. Wikipedia: Raymond Lambert (18 October 1914 � 25 February 1997) was a Swiss mountaineer, who with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay reached an altitude of 8611 metres (just 237 metres from the summit) of Mount Everest in May 1952. By that time it was the highest point that a climber had ever reached. There was a second Swiss expedition in autumn 1952, but a party including Lambert and Tenzing was forced to turn back at a slightly lower point. The following year Tenzing returned with Edmund Hillary to reach the summit on 29 May 1953. He was born Raymond Jules Eugene Lambert in Geneva, where he made his home for his entire life. Lambert was member to a group of elite Genevois climbers. With this group, Lambert tested his skills against French, German and Italian rivals to become the first ascenders of the hardest new climbs in the Mont Blanc Range. Second ascents of the Croz Spur on the Grandes Jorasses and the North Face of the Drus (where his name is immortalised in the Fissure Lambert) put him at the forefront of international mountaineering; however, it was one climb in particular, in 1938, that gave Lambert true legendary status: a winter ascent of the Aiguilles Diables. Caught in a violent February storm, the climbing party found themselves stranded on the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Lambert was the only one capable of contacting rescue. After three days sheltering in a crevasse, all of Lambert's toes were severely frostbitten. Subsequently, all of his toes were amputated. Everest Within a year after the amputation, Lambert was climbing again. His mountaineering career continued through the Second World War and in 1952 he was an obvious choice for Edouard Wyss-Dunant's Genevois expedition to Everest. Tibet was now closed to foreigners but Nepal had just opened up. The previous year Eric Shipton's British-New Zealand reconnaissance had climbed the Khumbu Icefall and reached the elusive Western Cwm, proving that Everest could be climbed from Nepal. Unfortunately for the British, who had enjoyed exclusive access to the mountain for 21 years, the Nepal government gave the 1952 permit to the Swiss. Building on Shipton's experience, the Genevans reached the head of the Western Cwm and climbed the huge face above to the desolate, wind-swept plateau of the South Col. Three Swiss climbers and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay continued towards the summit, pitching a tent at 8,400m. Two returned, leaving Tenzing and Lambert, who had become firm friends, to make a summit attempt. High altitude mountaineering in 1952 was still in its infancy. Even Swiss organisation and technology were not up to the job and, apart from Tenzing, the Sherpas had little experience. Despite the best plans, Tenzing and Lambert now had to spend a night at 8,400m with no sleeping bags and no stove, producing a trickle of drinking water by melting snow over a candle. The oxygen sets were barely operable and when the two men continued in the morning, they were effectively climbing without oxygen. They struggled heroically, at times crawling on all fours, hindered by the dead weight of malfunctioning oxygen sets, finally grinding to a halt near 8595m, approximately 250m short of the summit. Assuming that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did not reach higher in 1924, this was the highest than anyone had ever been. Lambert's extraordinary determination was further confirmed that autumn when, alone out of the spring team, he returned for the second Swiss attempt on Everest. This time he and Tenzing were driven back from the South Col by the November jet stream winds and, to the immense relief of the British team, preparing for 1953, the Swiss admitted defeat. After Everest Lambert returned to Nepal in 1954, trespassing across the Tibetan frontier to attempt Gaurisankar, and in 1955 to make the first ascent with Eric Gauchat and Claude Kogan of Ganesh I (7,429m). Subsequent expeditions took him to Pakistan and South America. Then in 1959 he embarked on a completely new career and by 1963, now married with two children, he was a fully qualified glacier pilot, flying to remote and inaccessible icy areas - a vocation which brought him considerable fame until he finally stopped flying in 1987 at the age of 72. Honor & Respect John Hunt recalls meeting Raymond Lambert in 1953 to learn as much as he could about the Swiss attempt on Everest: 'Despite their disappointment, the Swiss were most helpful. However, Raymond told me tactfully, `Monsieur Colonel, vous aurez gros problemes', meaning, that we hadn't a hope in hell [You will have big problems.].' On 26 May 1953, exactly a year after Lambert's attempt, Hunt himself photographed the skeletal remains of the tent at 8,400m. Said Hunt: 'It brought home the significance of their performance and made me force myself 50m higher up the ridge, to deposit the supplies for our final camp.' Three days later Tenzing and Hillary reached the summit. On the way home, the team stopped off at Zurich airport and met the Swiss trailblazers again. Lord Hunt recalls: "They offered us unreserved applause. In later years Raymond and I became close friends. He was not a demonstrative person, but the warmth of personality, once bestowed, was very precious to me."
Other Items You Might Like
Similar Items Available Items From This Author Items From This Category G.H.M ANNALES: GROUP DE HAUTE MONTAGNE SWITZERLAND *By: Group De Haute Montagne Swiss* Price $10.00 *- Item # JR254* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart CHO OYU: BY FAVOR OF THE GODS. Herbert Tichy 1957 1st UK edition Hardcover DJ *By: Tichy, Herbert.* Price $349.95 *- Item # OP433C-829* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart SUMMIT MAGAZINE USA BACK ISSUES 1960s: This List is of Available Issues between 1960-1969 *By: Summit Magazine* Price $10.00 ~ Regular $20.00, You Save $10.00 (50%) *- Item # JR154J-868* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart THE CLIMBING ART MAGAZINE Individual Back Issues Numbers 1 to 31 *By: Climbing Art Magazine, Pat Ament* Price $10.00 *- Item # JR156-869* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart FORERUNNERS TO EVEREST: THE STORY OF THE TWO SWISS EXPEDITIONS OF 1952 Dittert, Chevalley, Lambert 1954 1st US ed Hardcover Fine *By: Dittert, Rene, Gabriel Chevalley and Raymond Lambert* Price $19.99 ~ Regular $35.00, You Save $15.01 (43%) *- Item # OP37C-830* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart FORERUNNERS TO EVEREST: THE STORY OF THE TWO SWISS EXPEDITIONS OF 1952 Dittert, Chevalley, Lambert 1954 1st US ed Hardcover Near Fine *By: Dittert, Rene, Gabriel Chevalley and Raymond Lambert* Price $39.99 *- Item # OP37G-832* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart CHO OYU: WEST OF EVEREST DVD EASIEST 8000 METER PEAK! ON SALE *By: Â* [ SOLD ] *- Item # V2085* View Details CHO OYU: WEST OF EVEREST DVD: THE EASIEST 8000 METER PEAK! *By: Â* [ SOLD ] *- Item # V2085-1208* View Details SUMMIT MAGAZINE USA BACK ISSUES 1950s: 1958-1959 See This List of Available Issues *By: Summit Magazine* Price $20.00 ~ Regular $40.00, You Save $20.00 (50%) *- Item # JR154E-868* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart 1977-79 Sportscaster MOUNTAIN CLIMBING complete set (17) w/High #'s *By: 1977-79 Sportscaster MOUNTAIN CLIMBING complete set (17) w/High #'s* [ SOLD ] *- Item # HW* View Details Sorry, we were unable find any similar items available by this author. SHERPA HIMALAYA NEPAL Mario Fantin 1974 Hardcover DJ Fine in Original Slipcase *By: Fantin, Mario* Price $9.99 ~ Regular $45.00, You Save $35.01 (78%) *- Item # OP302A-879p* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart MOUNTAIN WORLD 1953 Hardcover DJ Near Fine-Fine Multiple Copies Available *By: Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research* Price $29.95 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $45.05 (60%) *- Item # MW1953-8612* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart CHRIS BONINGTON, MOUNTAINEER: THIRTY YEARS OF CLIMBING THE WORLD'S GREAT PEAKS Chris Bonington 1990 1st US ed Hardcover DJ Fine-Fine Multiple Copies Available (Not Signed) *By: Bonington, Chris* Price $9.99 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $40.01 (80%) *- Item # BK453C-7993p* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart K2: 8611M Charles Houston, Bob Bates, George Bell 1954 1st ed Like New *By: Houston, Charles, Bob Bates and George Bell* Price $95.00 ~ Regular $250.00, You Save $155.00 (62%) *- Item # OP250A-799* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart ULTIMATE HIGH: MY EVEREST ODYSSEY Goran Kropp 1999 Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Goran Kropp *By: Kropp, Goran* Price $95.00 ~ Regular $174.95, You Save $79.95 (46%) *- Item # BK833F-853* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart TREKKING IN THE HIMLAYAS Tomaya Iozawa 1985 3rd prtg Softcover Near Fine-Fine 2 Copies Available *By: Iozawa, Tomaya* Price $9.99 ~ Regular $30.00, You Save $20.01 (67%) *- Item # GB7955-8912* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart TO THE GREATEST HEIGHTS: FACING DANGER, FINDING HUMILITY, AND CLIMBING A MOUNTAIN OF TRUTH Vanessa O'Brien 2021 1st ed New Hardcover Multiple copies available *By: O'Brien, Vanessa* Price $14.95 ~ Regular $27.00, You Save $12.05 (45%) *- Item # BK4455-8614* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart ANNAPURNA FIRST CONQUEST OF AN 8000-METER PEAK [26,493 feet] 1st US ed Hardcover No DJ Near Fine SIGNED by Maurice Herzog Multiple copies available *By: Herzog, Maurice* Price $50.00 ~ Regular $400.00, You Save $350.00 (88%) *- Item # OP106D-7993* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT 1999 1st UK ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED as Ed Hillary Our Last copy *By: Hillary, Edmund* Price $350.00 *- Item # BK653C-837* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart LIGHTWEIGHT EXPEDITIONS Rob Collister 1989 1st US ed Hardcover DJ New Multiple Copies Available *By: Collister, Rob* Price $2.99 ~ Regular $24.95, You Save $21.96 (88%) *- Item # BK7290-79937* View Details Add To Cart Adding... Added! Click To View Cart