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Item #: OP1735A-7532
THE ASCENT OF NANDA DEVI H. W. Tilman 1937 1st US ed Hardcover Very Good 2 Copies Available [Not Signed]
By Tilman, H. W.
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Detailed Product Description
New York, MacMillan, 1937, 1st US edition. 235 pp, 35 b/w illustrations. Hardcover with faded spine. Internally bright and fine. Very Good condition overall.

Story of the 1936 first ascent of Nanda Devi with Noel Odell. Tilman's most important climb. 
 
 
The first ascent of Nanda Devi (25,645') with Arthur Emmons, Charles Houston, and Noel Odell, in 1936, without the use of crampons or pitons! Both Tilman and Odell reached the summit. Emmons was a member of the team which made the first ascent of Minya Konka (24,892', 1932). This became the highest summit climbed to date.
 
It was on this expedition that he lost most of the front of each foot. Despite this, with the use of special boots, he went high on Nanda Devi. Charles Houston is, of course, also known for his feats on K2 in 1936 and 1938. Noel Odell was a member of the British Everest expedition of 1924 and was the last person to see Mallory and Irvine alive.
 
Nanda Devi remained the highest summit climbed until 1950 when it was surpassed by Annapurna. Biography from Wikipedia: Major Harold William 'Bill' Tilman, CBE, DSO, MC and Bar (14 February 18981977) was a mountaineer and explorer, famous for his Himalayan climbs and sailing voyages.

Tilman's climbing career began with his acquaintance with Eric Shipton in Kenya, East Africa, where they were both coffee growers. Beginning with their joint traverse of Mount Kenya in 1929 and their ascents of Kilimanjaro and the fabled 'Mountains of the Moon' Ruwenzori, Shipton and Tilman formed one of the most famed partnerships in mountaineering history. When it came time to leave Africa, Tilman was not content with merely flying home but rode a bicycle across the continent to the West Coast where he embarked for England.

Tilman was involved in two of the 1930s Mount Everest expeditions,  participating in the 1935 Reconnaissance Expedition where he reached 27,200 feet without oxygen, as the expedition leader in 1938.
 
After penetrating the Nanda Devi sanctuary with Eric Shipton in 1934, Tilman went on to the first ascent of Nanda Devi with Noel Odell in 1936. During his extensive exploration of the areas of Langtang, Ganesh and Manang in 1949 he was the first to ascend Paldor, 5896 metres and found the pass named after him beyond Gangchempo. Following his military career behind enemy lines in the Second World War, Tilman took up deep sea sailing.
 

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