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Item #: OP99-4983
STRAIGHT UP: THE LIFE AND DEATH OF JOHN HARLIN James Ramsay Ullman 1968 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine-Fine 3 Copies Available
By Ullman, James Ramsey
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New York, 1968, 1st edition. 288 pp, 51 b/w illustrations. Hardcover with dust jacket. Near Fine to Fine.

John Harlin was the driving force on the Eiger Direct climb, on which he fell to his death. 

John Harlin was an American mountaineer and US Air Force Pilot who was killed making an ascent of the north face of the Eiger. Harlin conceived the ambition of climbing the Eiger by the direttissima (Italian for 'most direct' route). He introduced the use of real reconnoitering of mountaineering routes. 2,000 feet from the summit his rope broke and he fell to his death. The Scottish mountaineer Dougal Haston, who was climbing with Harlin, successfully reached the summit with a German party following the same route, which was renamed the 'Harlin route' in Harlin's honor. His son, John Harlin III, who was nine at the time of is father's death, is also a mountaineer.

Possibly, Harlin was one of the climbers - the other likely being Gary Hemming - who served as model for the character Rand in James Salter's acclaimed novel Solo Faces.

Harlin's son, an accomplished climber himself and writer, eventually climbed the Eiger by the 'original' or Heckmair route. He has written a book about his experience entitled 'The Eiger Obsession.' A film of the son's climb to exorcise the ghosts left by his father's death came out in May 2007: 'The Alps,' is an Imax movie and DVD with remarkable views of the north face of the Eiger as well as other Alpine peaks.
 

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