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Item #: OP465-267
THE CONQUEST OF FITZROY M.A. Azema, Lionel Terray, Guido Magnone 1957 1st ed No DJ Very Good
By Azema, M.A.
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London, 1957, 1st edition. 237 pp, 12 plates. Story of the first ascent of this legendary Patagonian peak in 1952 by the two great climbers, Guido Magnone and Lionel Terray. Hardcover, No DJ, VG.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Mount Fitzroy, Also know as: Cerro Chaltén

Cerro Chaltén, also known as Cerro Fitzroy or Monte Fitzroy, is a mountain ('cerro') OF 3,375 metres (11,073 ft)
located near the El Chaltén village, in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, in Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile. It has been agreed by the two countries that the international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit, but a large part of the border to the south of the summit, as far as Cerro Murallón remains undefined.

The name Chaltén comes from a Tehuelche (Aonikenk) word meaning 'smoking mountain,' due to a cloud that usually forms in the top of the mountain, and it was considered sacred by them. The alternate name 'Fitz Roy' comes from Robert FitzRoy who explored some of the area in 1834. The mountain is the symbol of the Argentinian Santa Cruz Province, which includes its representation on its coat of arms.

Perito Francisco Moreno named it Fitzroy in 1877, after the Beagle's captain Robert Fitz Roy. It was first climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone in 1952.

The mountain has a reputation of being 'ultimate,' despite its average height (although being the highest peak in the Los Glaciares park, it is less than half the Himalayan giants), because the sheer granite faces present long stretches of arduous technical climbing. Inaddition, the weather in the area is exceptionally inclement and treacherous. It also attracts many photographers thanks to its other worldly shape.

The area, while still fairly inaccessible, was even more isolated until the recent development of El Chalten village and El Calafate International Airport. The mountain climb, however, remains extremely difficult and is the preserve of very experienced climbers. Today, when a hundred people may summit Mount Everest in a single day, Cerro Chaltén may only be successfully ascended once a year.
 

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