New York, Vanguard, 1968, 1st US edition. 157 pp, b/w photos, maps. Hardcover with dust jacket and former owner's gift inscription on FEP, else Fine.
Fine tale of the second ascent of the West Face of Mount Huntington in Alaska. The publication of The Mountain of My Fear in 1968 changed the face of the mountaineering narrative. With this book, the world of climbing and the world of literature witnessed the emergence of a man whose brilliance in both fields is legendary. In The Mountain of My Fear, Roberts and Don Jensen come together only a year after the Deborah climb. In this account, they and two other Harvard students attempt an ascent of Mount Huntington, for the first time via its treacherous west face. The peak had been reached only once before, by Lionel Terray, via one of its less dangerous ridges. The Mountain of My Fear is the story of a magnificent achievement. It is also the story of how the perfect adventure turned into tragedy in a single instant when Roberts' partner plunged, silently and swiftly, off the face of the mountain.
This is the account of the first ascent of the West Face of Mt Huntington in Alaska. This was the first big face to be climbed on an Alaskan peak. It was a remarkable ascent for the time, especially since it was achieved by a relatively unknown, young team of 4 Harvard students. Mt Huntington had only been climbed one time prior to the Harvard expedition. The first ascent was made by a large-scale expedition led by Lionel Terray in 1964, the last major first ascent by the great alpinist.
This was David Roberts' first book. He continues to write award-winning books and articles that are published worldwide. He has made several pioneering, significant first ascents in Alaska including the Wickersham Wall on Mt McKinley, Kachatna Spire, East Face of Mt Dickey, etc. He co-authored with Bradford Washburn the magnificent book, Mount McKinley, The Conquest of Denali and ghost wrote Ed Viesturs' story of his 8000 meter climbs.
