Chessler Books
Rock Climbing - Mountaineering - Exploration
New - Used - Collectible - Signed
Chessler Books Accepts PAYPAL Chessler Books Accepts VISA Chessler Books Accepts MASTERCARD Chessler Books Accepts DISCOVER CARD Chessler Books Accepts AMERICAN EXPRESS
All Orders Shipped via United States Postal Service   Chessler Books Ships Via USPS
Author:
Title:
Keyword:
Item #:
A B C D E F G H I
J K L M Mc N O P Q
R S T U V W X Y Z
Item #: OP2002FAB-3742
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT Richard Sale 2004 1st edition Hardcover DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck 2 copies available
By Sale, Richard
Price: $64.00

List Price: $150.00
You Save $86.00 (57%)



Add to wish list


Detailed Product Description



SIGNED (Tipped In) BY Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck.

UK, 2004, 1st UK edition. 208 pp, 48 color & 18 b/w photos, sketches, appendix. This the first full account of the 1st ascent of Broad Peak (aka K3 and Faichan Kangri) in 1957 by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger, drawing on the climbing diaries of Schmuck and Wintersteller and accounts written by Buhl. None of this material has ever been published before. 

The account is supported by conversations with Kurt Diemberger and with Qader Saeed, who was the expedition's Pakistani liaison officer. The book includes an account of Buhl's last climb and death on Chogolisa, from the protocol written by the surviving team members on the day Diemberger returned to Base Camp after the accident. The book begins with a history of Broad Peak, including the first ever drawing of the mountain (from Martin Conway's expedition of 1892), the first ever photograph (from the Eckenstein expedition of 1902) and Vittorio Sella's panorama from the Duke of Abruzzi expedition of 1909.

There is also an account of the first attempt on the Peak by the Karl Herrligkoffer expedition of 1954. The book ends with an Appendix of all summit climbs from 1957-2004. The photos from the 1957 expedition are almost entirely from previously unpublished work of Schmuck and Wintersteller. New Hardcover with dust jacket.

One of the most impressive Himalayan ascents of the last century was Austrian party of Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhls 1957 first ascent of Pakistans 8,047 m Broad Peak.This was achieved by a small team without artificial oxygen who ferried all the loads to the high camps. The trip ended with the tragic death of top Austrian climber Hermann Buhl, who fell through a cornice duringa reconnaissance of Chogolisa.

Now, this book by Richard Sale, Broad Peak, discusses the dynamics between the climbers themselves and the effect of Buhls death on the way the trip has been reported. In the past, the roles ofthe massively strong Schmuck and the talented Wintersteller have been downplayed, even though they performed brilliantly as a team and made the first ascent of the peak. Another little recognized aspect of such trips is the role played by liaison officers. On the 1957 expedition, a dashing young Pakistani infantry officer, Quader Saeed was the liaison officer.

Saeed emigrated to Toronto in 1971 and now runs a grocery store there. Saeed instantly liked the climbers, an impression made stronger when Buhl had a pair of boots flown to Rawalpindi from Austria because the expedition had none that fit him. Saeed saved the men from difficulties on several occasions. I had to explain to them that we were five men and that there were forty porters and we were a long way from any help. They demanded sunglasses, and one of the climbers said,be tough, tell them no. Instead, I asked the porters why they needed these glasses now, when they had never needed them before, in all their travels in exactly the same areas. We had to pay them for the glasses, but avoided a conflict. 

Saeed was devastated by the death of Buhl, and tears still come to his eyes when he describes Diemberger coming to the camp with the news. Saeed stays in touch with Schmuck and Wintersteller and visits their homes in Austria every few years. He has two photographsof himself and Schmuck climbing on Broad Peak on the wall of his store and follows the climbing news about Broad Peak.  Saeed greeted Sales book enthusiastically because,according to him, it is the first book to set the record straight about one of the most impressive ascents in Pakistans history and one of hismost treasured memories. Shortlisted for the 2005 Boardman Tasker Award.


Other Items You Might Like

  • Similar Items Available
  • Items From This Author
  • Items From This Category
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT Richard Sale 2004 1st edition Hardcover DJ New 2 copies available
By: Sale, Richard
Price $14.99 ~ Regular $30.00, You Save $15.01 (50%)
- Item # OP2002CAB-9282
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck tipped in
By: Sale, Richard
Price $64.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $86.00 (57%)
- Item # OP2002DAB-334B
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK 8047 M. MEINE BERGFAHRTEN MIT HERMANN BUHL Marcus Schmuck 1958 1st edition DJ Fine SIGNED by Marcus Schmuck Fritz Winterstller and Kurt Diemberger
By: Schmuck, Marcus
Price $945.00
- Item # OP2491AB-104
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST AND CONQUEST IN THE HIMALAYA: SCIENCE AND COURAGE ON THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAIN Richard Sale and George Rodway 2011 1st ed Hardcover DJ New Multiple Copies Available
By: Sale, Richard and George Rodway
Price $29.99 ~ Regular $39.95, You Save $9.96 (25%)
- Item # BK2495-1585
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SELECTED CLIMBS IN ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK Richard DuMais 1980 1st ed Like New SIGNED by Richard Dumais
By: DuMais, Richard
Price $25.00
- Item # GB48B-136
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
K2 CHOGORI DER GROSSE BERG [K2 CHOGORI THE BIG MOUNTAIN] Reinhold Messner 2004 1st ed Hardcover DJ New [Not Signed]
By: Messner, Reinhold
Price $39.99 ~ Regular $40.00, You Save $0.01 (0%)
- Item # BK1987-163
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1995 Multiple copies available
By: American Alpine Club 1995 Journal
Price $10.00 ~ Regular $35.00, You Save $25.00 (71%)
- Item # AAJ1995-2335
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SELECTED CLIMBS IN ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK Richard DuMais 1980 1st ed Very Good Multiple Copies Available [Not Signed]
By: DuMais, Richard
Price $9.95 ~ Regular $30.00, You Save $20.05 (67%)
- Item # GB48A-1363
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
CHAMONIX AND THE RANGE OF MONT BLANC: A GUIDE Edward Whymper 1907 12th edition Very Good
By: Whymper, Edward
Price $75.00 ~ Regular $125.00, You Save $50.00 (40%)
- Item # OP1597B-539
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ON TOP OF THE WORLD: CLIMBING THE WORLD'S 14 HIGHEST MOUNTAINS Richard Sale 2000 Hardcover Fine
By: Sale, Richard, John Cleare
Price $19.95 ~ Regular $60.00, You Save $40.05 (67%)
- Item # BK2592C-1032
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
CLIMBING THE WORLD'S 14 HIGHEST MOUNTAINS: THE HISTORY OF THE 8,000-METER PEAKS Richard Sale and John Cleare 2000 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine
By: Sale, Richard and John Cleare.
Price $29.95
- Item # BK1345-158
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT Richard Sale 2004 1st edition Hardcover DJ New 2 copies available
By: Sale, Richard
Price $14.99 ~ Regular $30.00, You Save $15.01 (50%)
- Item # OP2002CAB-9282
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST AND CONQUEST IN THE HIMALAYA: SCIENCE AND COURAGE ON THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAIN Richard Sale and George Rodway 2011 1st ed Hardcover DJ New Multiple Copies Available
By: Sale, Richard and George Rodway
Price $29.99 ~ Regular $39.95, You Save $9.96 (25%)
- Item # BK2495-1585
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck tipped in
By: Sale, Richard
Price $64.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $86.00 (57%)
- Item # OP2002DAB-334B
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ARCTIC ODYSSEY: TRAVELLING ARCTIC EUROPE Richard Sale and Tony Oliver 1991 Hardcover DJ Fine
By: Sale, Richard and Tony Oliver
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $19.95, You Save $9.96 (50%)
- Item # PL6340-162
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ON TOP OF THE WORLD: CLIMBING THE WORLD'S 14 HIGHEST MOUNTAINS Richard Sale 2000 Hardcover Fine
By: Sale, Richard, John Cleare
Price $19.95 ~ Regular $60.00, You Save $40.05 (67%)
- Item # BK2592C-1032
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BLANK ON THE MAP Eric Shipton 1938 1st UK ed with Rare Dust Jacket SIGNED by Eric Shipton
By: Shipton, Eric
[ SOLD ]
- Item # OP417-
View Details
COLD CLIMBS: THE GREAT SNOW AND ICE CLIMBS OF THE BRITISH ISLES Ken Wilson, Alcock, Barry 1983 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine
By: Wilson, Ken, Dave Alcock and John Barry
Price $45.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $105.00 (70%)
- Item # BK1724-144
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
K2 UOMINI ESPLORAZIONI IMPRESE [K2: MEN, EXPLORATION, EXPEDITIONS] Leonardo Bizzaro 2004 1st ed Hardcover Fine
By: Bizzaro, Leonardo. Alessandro Gogna, Carlo Pinelli, Associazione Ardito Desio
Price $85.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $65.00 (43%)
- Item # BK1402-163p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
LA SUD DEL MCKINLEY, E BREVE STORIA DEL DENALI [MCKINLEY SOUTH AND A BRIEF HISTORY OF DENALI] Riccardo Cassin, Mirella Tenderini 2000 2nd ed Paperback Fine
By: Cassin, Riccardo and Mirella Tenderini
Price $25.00 ~ Regular $45.00, You Save $20.00 (44%)
- Item # OP468-544
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THIS DISTANT AND UNSURVEYED COUNTRY: A WOMAN'S WINTER AT BAFFIN ISLAND 1857-1858 [Margaret Penny] W. Gillies Ross 1997 1st ed Hardcover Like New
By: Ross, W. Gillies
Price $23.00 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $27.00 (54%)
- Item # PL4489-167
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
FALLING UPWARDS [Balloons] Richard Holmes 2013 1st US ed Hardcover DJ Fine
By: Holmes, Richard
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $35.00, You Save $25.01 (71%)
- Item # PL6779-167
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ENDEAVOUR ON EVEREST: CELEBRATING THE 50TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF MOUNT EVEREST 2003 Softcover Program Very Good
By: Mount Everest Foundation
Price $19.95 ~ Regular $25.00, You Save $5.05 (20%)
- Item # BK7775-117
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SLENDER THREAD: ESCAPING DISASTER IN THE HIMALAYA Stephen Venables 2000 1st UK ed Hardcover DJ Fine 2 Copies Available
By: Venables, Stephen
Price $29.99 ~ Regular $40.00, You Save $10.01 (25%)
- Item # BK1613A-1582
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BUGABOOS: AN ALPINE HISTORY John Garden 1987 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine [Not signed] 4 Copies Available
By: Garden, John
Price $24.99 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $50.01 (67%)
- Item # OP222B-1054p
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE UNKNOWN MOUNTAIN Don Munday1948 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Munday, Don
Price $50.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $100.00 (67%)
- Item # OP1086G-106
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
偽物ブランド ブランドルイヴィトンコピー