Chessler Books
Rock Climbing - Mountaineering - Exploration
New - Used - Collectible - Signed
Chessler Books Accepts PAYPAL Chessler Books Accepts VISA Chessler Books Accepts MASTERCARD Chessler Books Accepts DISCOVER CARD Chessler Books Accepts AMERICAN EXPRESS
All Orders Shipped via United States Postal Service   Chessler Books Ships Via USPS
Author:
Title:
Keyword:
Item #:
A B C D E F G H I
J K L M Mc N O P Q
R S T U V W X Y Z
Item #: BK2002
BROAD PEAK Richard Sale 2004 1st ed DJ New.
By Sale, Richard
Price: $44.95


Add to wish list


Detailed Product Description

UK, 2004, 1st edition. 208 pp, 48 color & 18 b/w photos, sketches, appendix. This the first full account of the 1st ascent of Broad Peak (aka K3 and Faichan Kangri) in 1957 by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger, drawing on the climbing diaries of Schmuck and Wintersteller and accounts written by Buhl. Almost none of this material has ever been published before. New hardcover with Dust Jacket.

The account is supported by conversations with Kurt Diemberger and with Qader Saeed, who was the expedition's Pakistani liaison officer. The book includes an account of Buhl's last climb and death on Chogolisa, from the protocol written by the surviving team members on the day Diemberger returned to Base Camp after the accident. The book begins with a history of Broad Peak, including the first ever drawing of the mountain (from Martin Conway's expedition of 1892), the first ever photograph (from the Eckenstein expedition of 1902) and Vittorio Sella's panorama from the Duke of Abruzzi expedition of 1909.

There is also an account of the first attempt on the Peak by the Karl Herrligkoffer expedition of 1954. The book ends with an Appendix of all summit climbs from 1957-2004. The photos from the 1957 expedition are almost entirely from previously unpublished work of Schmuck and Wintersteller. New Hardcover with dust jacket.

One of the most impressive Himalayan ascents of the last century was Austrian party of Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl’s 1957 first ascent of Pakistan’s 8,047 m Broad Peak. This was achieved by a small team without artificial oxygen who ferried all the loads to the high camps. The trip ended with the tragic death of top Austrian climber Hermann Buhl, who fell through a cornice during a reconnaissance of Chogolisa.

Now, this book by Richard Sale, Broad Peak, discusses the dynamics between the climbers themselves and the effect of Buhl’s death on the way the trip has been reported. In the past, the roles of the massively strong Schmuck and the talented Wintersteller have been downplayed, even though they performed brilliantly as a team and made the first ascent of the peak.

Another little recognized aspect of such trips is the role played by liaison officers. On the 1957 expedition, a dashing young Pakistani infantry officer, Quader Saeed was the liaison officer. Saeed emigrated to Toronto in 1971 and now runs a grocery store there.

Saeed instantly liked the climbers, an impression made stronger when Buhl had a pair of boots flown to Rawalpindi from Austria because the expedition had none that fit him. Saeed saved the men from difficulties on several occasions. “I had to explain to them that we were five men and that there were forty porters and we were a long way from any help. They demanded sunglasses, and one of the climbers said, ‘be tough, tell them no.’ Instead, I asked the porters why they needed these glasses now, when they had never needed them before, in all their travels in exactly the same areas. We had to pay them for the glasses, but avoided a conflict.”

Saeed was devastated by the death of Buhl, and tears still come to his eyes when he describes Diemberger coming to the camp with the news. Saeed stays in touch with Schmuck and Wintersteller and visits their homes in Austria every few years. He has two photographs of himself and Schmuck climbing on Broad Peak on the wall of his store and follows the climbing news about Broad Peak.

Saeed greeted Sales’ book enthusiastically because, according to him, it is the first book to set the record straight about one of the most impressive ascents in Pakistan’s history and one of his most treasured memories.

More

The first full english-language account of the first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957 by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger. This was a breakthrough climb by a small team of four using no artificial oxygen and no climbing support. Sale drew upon the climbing diaries of Schmuck and Wintersteller, accounts written by Buhl, and conversations with Diemberger and Qader Saeed, the expedition's Pakistani liaison officer. None of this material has previously been published.

Sale begins with a history of Broad Peak, including the first ever drawing of the mountain (from Conway's expedition of 1892), the first ever photograph (from the Eckenstein expedition of 1902) and Sella's panorama from the Abruzzi expedition of 1909. There is also an account of the first attempt by the Herrligkoffer expedition of 1954. The photos from the 1957 expedition are almost entirely previously unpublished work of Schmuck and Wintersteller. Additionally, there is an account of Buhl's last climb and death on Chogolisa from the protocol written by the surviving team members on the day Diemberger returned to Base Camp after the accident. The book ends with an Appendix of all summit climbs from 1957-2004. Broad Peak is long overdue for an english-language account of this important first ascent of an 8000m peak by a very small team.


Other Items You Might Like

  • Similar Items Available
  • Items From This Author
  • Items From This Category
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 DJ New SIGNED by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $199.99 ~ Regular $600.00, You Save $400.01 (67%)
- Item # OP72002AB-334A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $44.99 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $105.01 (70%)
- Item # OP72002AB-334C
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck tipped in
By: Sale, Richard
Price $54.99 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $95.01 (63%)
- Item # OP72002AB-334B
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST AND CONQUEST IN THE HIMALAYA: SCIENCE AND COURAGE ON THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAIN Richard Sale and George Rodway 2011 1st ed Hardcover DJ New Multiple Copies Available
By: Sale, Richard and George Rodway
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $39.95, You Save $34.96 (88%)
- Item # BK2495-5838
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
Kilimanjaro: Complete Trekker's Guide Alexander Stewart 2004 New
By: Stewart
Price $19.95
- Item # GB2042
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
HIMALAYAN DATABASE ON CD-ROM Hawley, Elizabeth & Richard Salisbury 2004 New 2 copies available
By: Hawley, Elizabeth & Richard Salisbury
Price $59.95 ~ Regular $69.95, You Save $10.00 (14%)
- Item # BK1996-257
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
K2 LA MIA AVVENTURA: DIARIO DI UNA SPEDIZIONE IN CIMA AL MONDO [K2 MY ADVENTURE: DIARY OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD] Michele Comi 2004 1st ed New Softcover
By: Comi, Michele
Price $99.00
- Item # OP5327-178
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1993 (26 copies available)
By: American Alpine Club
Price $2.99 ~ Regular $25.00, You Save $22.01 (88%)
- Item # AAJ1993--29826
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
K2 CHOGORI DER GROSSE BERG [K2 CHOGORI THE BIG MOUNTAIN] Reinhold Messner 2004 1st ed Hardcover DJ New [Not Signed]
By: Messner, Reinhold
Price $39.99
- Item # BK1987-851
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
GROSSE BERGFAHRTEN [BIG MOUNTAIN RIDES] Hermann Buhl 1974 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Buhl, Hermann
Price $99.00
- Item # OP5273-178
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $44.99 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $105.01 (70%)
- Item # OP72002AB-334C
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST AND CONQUEST IN THE HIMALAYA: SCIENCE AND COURAGE ON THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAIN Richard Sale and George Rodway 2011 1st ed Hardcover DJ New Multiple Copies Available
By: Sale, Richard and George Rodway
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $39.95, You Save $34.96 (88%)
- Item # BK2495-5838
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 DJ New SIGNED by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $199.99 ~ Regular $600.00, You Save $400.01 (67%)
- Item # OP72002AB-334A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck tipped in
By: Sale, Richard
Price $54.99 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $95.01 (63%)
- Item # OP72002AB-334B
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
FIVE MILES HIGH: THE STORY OF AN ATTACK ON THE SECOND HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD BY THE MEMBERS OF THE FIRST AMERICAN KARAKORAM EXPEDITION 2000 New Paperback SIGNED by Charles Houston and Robert Bates
By: Houston, Charles and Robert Bates
Price $75.00 ~ Regular $200.00, You Save $125.00 (62%)
- Item # BK690-611
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
GREAT CLIMBS: A CELEBRATION OF WORLD MOUNTAINEERING 1994, 1st UK edition SIGNED by Bonington , Scott, Salkeld, Diemberger, Webster
By: Bonington, Chris
Price $99.99 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $50.01 (33%)
- Item # BK168B
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
GRASPING FOR HEAVEN: INTERVIEWS WITH NORTH AMERICAN CLIMBERS Frederic V. Hartemann and Robert Hauptman 2011 1st ed New Paperback
By: Hartemann, Frederic V. and Robert Hauptman
Price $14.99 ~ Regular $40.00, You Save $25.01 (63%)
- Item # BK2482-611
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
K2 AND THE NORTHERN BALTORO MUSTAGH GUIDE Kielkowski 1997 4 copies left
By: Kielkowski, Jan
Price $19.95 ~ Regular $37.95, You Save $18.00 (47%)
- Item # GB334-489
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SPIRITS OF THE AIR Kurt Diemberger 1994 1st USA ed DJ As New
By: Diemberger, Kurt.
Price $29.99 ~ Regular $34.95, You Save $4.96 (14%)
- Item # OP7387-559
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE HEART OF A CONTINENT Francis Younghusband 1994 New Hardcover MULTIPLE COPIES AVAILABLE
By: Younghusband, Capt Frank E
Price $14.95 ~ Regular $44.95, You Save $30.00 (67%)
- Item # BK1749-1210
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ON BELAY! THE LIFE OF LEGENDARY MOUNTAINEER PAUL PETZOLDT Ringholz 1998 1st ed New Hardcover DJ Multiple Copies Available
By: Ringholz, Raye C.
Price $1.99 ~ Regular $24.95, You Save $22.96 (92%)
- Item # BK1268A-29712
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
VINTAGE WOOD HANDLE AUSTRIAN, SWISS, GERMAN, FRENCH OR ITALIAN ICE AXES 30-36 inches. 50-90 years old. 5 copies available
By: Ice Axe Wood Handle
Price $174.99 ~ Regular $250.00, You Save $75.01 (30%)
- Item # HW98AB-33410
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
LOU WHITTAKER: MEMOIRS OF A MOUNTAIN GUIDE Whittaker and Gabbard 1994 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine Multiple Copies Available [Not Signed]
By: Whittaker, Lou, and Andrea Gabbard
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $30.00, You Save $25.01 (83%)
- Item # BK1684F-1353
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
NO PLACE TO FALL: SUPERALPINISM IN THE HIMALAYA Saunders 1994 1st edition SIGNED by Chris Bonington
By: Saunders, Victor
Price $49.99 ~ Regular $100.00, You Save $50.01 (50%)
- Item # BK1364-614
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart