Chessler Books
Rock Climbing - Mountaineering - Exploration
New - Used - Collectible - Signed
Chessler Books Accepts PAYPAL Chessler Books Accepts VISA Chessler Books Accepts MASTERCARD Chessler Books Accepts DISCOVER CARD Chessler Books Accepts AMERICAN EXPRESS
All Orders Shipped via United States Postal Service   Chessler Books Ships Via USPS
Author:
Title:
Keyword:
Item #:
A B C D E F G H I
J K L M Mc N O P Q
R S T U V W X Y Z
Item #: BK2002
BROAD PEAK Richard Sale 2004 1st ed DJ New.
By Sale, Richard
Price: $44.95


Add to wish list


Detailed Product Description

UK, 2004, 1st edition. 208 pp, 48 color & 18 b/w photos, sketches, appendix. This the first full account of the 1st ascent of Broad Peak (aka K3 and Faichan Kangri) in 1957 by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger, drawing on the climbing diaries of Schmuck and Wintersteller and accounts written by Buhl. Almost none of this material has ever been published before. New hardcover with Dust Jacket.

The account is supported by conversations with Kurt Diemberger and with Qader Saeed, who was the expedition's Pakistani liaison officer. The book includes an account of Buhl's last climb and death on Chogolisa, from the protocol written by the surviving team members on the day Diemberger returned to Base Camp after the accident. The book begins with a history of Broad Peak, including the first ever drawing of the mountain (from Martin Conway's expedition of 1892), the first ever photograph (from the Eckenstein expedition of 1902) and Vittorio Sella's panorama from the Duke of Abruzzi expedition of 1909.

There is also an account of the first attempt on the Peak by the Karl Herrligkoffer expedition of 1954. The book ends with an Appendix of all summit climbs from 1957-2004. The photos from the 1957 expedition are almost entirely from previously unpublished work of Schmuck and Wintersteller. New Hardcover with dust jacket.

One of the most impressive Himalayan ascents of the last century was Austrian party of Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl’s 1957 first ascent of Pakistan’s 8,047 m Broad Peak. This was achieved by a small team without artificial oxygen who ferried all the loads to the high camps. The trip ended with the tragic death of top Austrian climber Hermann Buhl, who fell through a cornice during a reconnaissance of Chogolisa.

Now, this book by Richard Sale, Broad Peak, discusses the dynamics between the climbers themselves and the effect of Buhl’s death on the way the trip has been reported. In the past, the roles of the massively strong Schmuck and the talented Wintersteller have been downplayed, even though they performed brilliantly as a team and made the first ascent of the peak.

Another little recognized aspect of such trips is the role played by liaison officers. On the 1957 expedition, a dashing young Pakistani infantry officer, Quader Saeed was the liaison officer. Saeed emigrated to Toronto in 1971 and now runs a grocery store there.

Saeed instantly liked the climbers, an impression made stronger when Buhl had a pair of boots flown to Rawalpindi from Austria because the expedition had none that fit him. Saeed saved the men from difficulties on several occasions. “I had to explain to them that we were five men and that there were forty porters and we were a long way from any help. They demanded sunglasses, and one of the climbers said, ‘be tough, tell them no.’ Instead, I asked the porters why they needed these glasses now, when they had never needed them before, in all their travels in exactly the same areas. We had to pay them for the glasses, but avoided a conflict.”

Saeed was devastated by the death of Buhl, and tears still come to his eyes when he describes Diemberger coming to the camp with the news. Saeed stays in touch with Schmuck and Wintersteller and visits their homes in Austria every few years. He has two photographs of himself and Schmuck climbing on Broad Peak on the wall of his store and follows the climbing news about Broad Peak.

Saeed greeted Sales’ book enthusiastically because, according to him, it is the first book to set the record straight about one of the most impressive ascents in Pakistan’s history and one of his most treasured memories.

More

The first full english-language account of the first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957 by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger. This was a breakthrough climb by a small team of four using no artificial oxygen and no climbing support. Sale drew upon the climbing diaries of Schmuck and Wintersteller, accounts written by Buhl, and conversations with Diemberger and Qader Saeed, the expedition's Pakistani liaison officer. None of this material has previously been published.

Sale begins with a history of Broad Peak, including the first ever drawing of the mountain (from Conway's expedition of 1892), the first ever photograph (from the Eckenstein expedition of 1902) and Sella's panorama from the Abruzzi expedition of 1909. There is also an account of the first attempt by the Herrligkoffer expedition of 1954. The photos from the 1957 expedition are almost entirely previously unpublished work of Schmuck and Wintersteller. Additionally, there is an account of Buhl's last climb and death on Chogolisa from the protocol written by the surviving team members on the day Diemberger returned to Base Camp after the accident. The book ends with an Appendix of all summit climbs from 1957-2004. Broad Peak is long overdue for an english-language account of this important first ascent of an 8000m peak by a very small team.


Other Items You Might Like

  • Similar Items Available
  • Items From This Author
  • Items From This Category
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 DJ New SIGNED by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $250.00 ~ Regular $600.00, You Save $350.00 (58%)
- Item # OP72002AB-257A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $50.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $100.00 (67%)
- Item # OP72002AB-257C
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck tipped in
By: Sale, Richard
Price $65.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $85.00 (57%)
- Item # OP72002AB-257B
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST AND CONQUEST IN THE HIMALAYA: SCIENCE AND COURAGE ON THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAIN George Rodway & Richard Sale 2011 1st Ed NEW DJ MULTIPLE COPIES AVAILABLE
By: Rodway, George & Richard Sale
Price $8.95 ~ Regular $39.95, You Save $31.00 (78%)
- Item # BK2495-1563
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
Kilimanjaro: Complete Trekker's Guide Alexander Stewart 2004 New
By: Stewart
Price $19.95
- Item # GB2042
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ON TOP OF THE WORLD: THE NEW MILLENIUM: THE CONTINUING QUEST TO CLIMB THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAINS Richard Sale. 2012 Updated Edition DJ New
By: Sale, Richard, Eberhard Jurgalski, & George Rodway
Price $59.95
- Item # BK2592A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SELECTED CLIMBS IN ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 1980 1st ed SIGNED by Richard Dumais
By: Dumais, Richard
Price $34.95
- Item # OPG48
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1993 (10 copies available)
By: American Alpine Club
Price $2.99 ~ Regular $25.00, You Save $22.01 (88%)
- Item # AAJ1993-3789
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
HIMALAYAN DATABASE ON CD-ROM Hawley, Elizabeth & Richard Salisbury 2004 New 2 copies available
By: Hawley, Elizabeth & Richard Salisbury
Price $59.95 ~ Regular $69.95, You Save $10.00 (14%)
- Item # BK1996-257
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ICE CLIMBING IN VALTELLINA ITALY [SPECCHI DI GHIACCIO] Gaddi 2004
By: Gaddi, Andrea
Price $39.95
- Item # GB2376
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MAPPING THE HIMALAYAS: MICHAEL WARD AND THE PUNDIT HERITAGE Michael Ward Richard Sale 2009 New condition
By: Sale, Richard and Michael Ward
Price $295.00
- Item # BK2400-377
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $50.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $100.00 (67%)
- Item # OP72002AB-257C
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ON TOP OF THE WORLD: THE NEW MILLENIUM: THE CONTINUING QUEST TO CLIMB THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAINS Richard Sale. 2012 Updated Edition DJ New
By: Sale, Richard, Eberhard Jurgalski, & George Rodway
Price $59.95
- Item # BK2592A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 DJ New SIGNED by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $250.00 ~ Regular $600.00, You Save $350.00 (58%)
- Item # OP72002AB-257A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck tipped in
By: Sale, Richard
Price $65.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $85.00 (57%)
- Item # OP72002AB-257B
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
LIFE ON THE EDGE: MEMOIRS OF EVEREST AND BEYOND 2013 Edition 100 More Photos New Hardcover DJ SIGNED by Jim Whittaker
By: Whittaker, Jim with a new foreword by Ed Viesturs and a new afterword by the author
Price $39.95 ~ Regular $49.95, You Save $10.00 (20%)
- Item # BK1680D-
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
DOUGAL HASTON: THE PHILOSOPHY OF RISK Jeff Connor 2002 1st UK edition DJ New Multiple copies
By: Connor, Jeff.
Price $2.99 ~ Regular $24.00, You Save $21.01 (88%)
- Item # BK296A-789
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
DESTRUCTIVE GOAL PURSUIT: THE MOUNT EVEREST DISASTER D. Christopher Kayes 2006 1st Ed DJ
By: Kayes, D. Christopher
Price $24.95 ~ Regular $49.95, You Save $25.00 (50%)
- Item # BK2127
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
VAINCRE LE GEANT: RUDY VAN SNICK SUR LE MOUNT EVEREST [FIGHT THE GIANT: RUDY VAN SNICK ON MOUNT EVEREST] Herman Detienne 1990 1st ed Hardcover No DJ Near Fine
By: Detienne, Herman
Price $19.99 ~ Regular $40.00, You Save $20.01 (50%)
- Item # OP5131-713
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
HIGH ADVENTURE Edmund Hillary 1955 2nd UK imp Hardcover DJ Near Fine [Not signed]
By: Hillary, Edmund
Price $19.99 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $30.01 (60%)
- Item # OP138G-526
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE ABOMINABLE: A NOVEL OF MOUNT EVEREST Dan Simmons 2013 1st ed DJ
By: Simmons, Dan
Price $28.95
- Item # BK8837
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST: IMPOSSIBLE VICTORY Peter Habeler 1979 1st UK edition Hardcover DJ SIGNED by Reinhold Messner, Robert Schauer with post card SIGNED by Peter Habeler
By: Habeler, Peter.
Price $124.95 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $25.05 (17%)
- Item # OP206AB-995
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SURVIVING K2 SIGNED by van Rooijen, Wilco, Roger Thurman 2010
By: van Rooijen, Wilco (Author, Illustrator), Roger Thurman (Editor)
Price $39.95
- Item # BK2465
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MEN AGAINST EVEREST Howard Marshall 1954 1st ed DJ VG to Near Fine 2 copies available
By: Marshall, Howard
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $25.00, You Save $15.01 (60%)
- Item # OP1000-6372
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ANNAPURNA SOUTH FACE Chris Bonington 1971 1st American ed Chris Bonington DJ NF
By: Bonington, Chris.
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $65.01 (87%)
- Item # OP452D-257
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart