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Item #: OP15B-784
RED PEAK A PERSONAL ACCOUNT OF THE BRITISH SOVIET EXPEDITION 1962 Malcolm Slesser 1964 1st US ed Hardcover DJ Fine
By Slesser, Malcolm
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New York, 1964, 1st US edition. 256 pp, b/w photos. Hardcover with dust jacket. Fine.

This Pamir Expedition was the first expedition made up of British and Russian mountaineers. The fact that Western climbers got permission to ascend the 24,590 ft. Peak during the Communist era was a major achievement at the time. Malcolm Slesser, the deputy leader of the British climbers, has written this account of their trek.

Wilfrid Noyce sadly died on this mountaineering expedition, along with Robin Smith. Noyce was one of the most successful post-war British mountaineers. He made the first ascents of Machapuchare and Trivor in the Himalaya and was a member of the successful 1953 Everest expedition. It was Noyce who forced the route to the South Col.

 
The British-Soviet Pamir Expedition was for several reasons an historic one: it was the first expedition to be composed of both British and Russian mountaineers; the Pamir Range, was entirely new ground to Western mountaineers and their ascent of the 24,590 ft Peak of Communism, the highest mountain in the USSR was a considerable achievement, especially after the tragic loss of Wilfrid Noyce and Robin Smith - from the introduction to Red Peak.
 
From Wikipedia:
Ismoil Somoni Peak (then known as Peak Communism) taken in 1989.
Elevation 7,495 metres (24,590 feet)
Location Tajikistan
Range Pamirs
Prominence 3,402 m
Coordinates 3855'N, 7201'E
First ascent September 9, 1933 Yevgeniy Abalakov
Easiest route rock/snow/ice climb

Ismoil Somoni Peak (Tajik:) Qullai Ismoili Somoni, (Russian)  is the highest mountain in Tajikistan and in the former Soviet Union, named after Ismoil Somoni, the ancestor of the Samanid dynasty.

When the existence of a peak in the Soviet Pamir Mountains higher than Independence Peak was first established in 1928, the mountain was tentatively identified with Garmo Peak; but as the result of the work of further Soviet expeditions, it became clear by 1932 that they were not the same, and in 1933 the new peak, from the Akademiya Nauk Range, was named Stalin Peak (Pik Stalina), after Joseph Stalin.

In 1962, the name was changed to Communism Peak (Russian: Pik Kommunizma) and in 1998 to its current name, Ismoil Somoni Peak


The first ascent was made in 1933 by the Soviet mountaineer Yevgeniy Abalakov.

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