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Item #: OP1793-862
TALUS: A HISTORY OF THE DARTMOUTH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB Dean Engle 1993 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine
By Engle, Dean
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Detailed Product Description
New Hampshire, 1993, 1st ed. 253 pp, b/w photos. Hardcover, Dust Jacket, Fine condition.

The Dartmouth Outing Club is well known for producing excellent skiers and olympians. Less well known are the climbers who also attended Dartmouth. This is the only book about them, and we were unsuccessful in ever getting copies when it was ''in print.'' This book is uncommon as 1993 was pre-internet, and I don't think it was ever in any bookshops except in Hanover NH. I doubt if more than 100 copies were printed. 

The history of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, which along with Harvard was a leading source of pre- and post-WW2 climbers who went on to great things. Dartmouth of course was a fount of great skiers before WW2 and the 1950s-1960s explosion of American skiing. 

The book described expeditions to the mountains of Bugaboos and Canada, McKinley and Alaska, Everest and the Himalaya, K2 and the Karakoram, the Andes,

Notable Dartmouth Alumni mountaineers include Jake Breitenbach who was the first American to die on Mount Everest 1963. He was the first climber to die in the Khumbu Icefall, which was predicted at that time to be the great people muncher on Everest. As it turned out of course the altitude and weather have been greater killers on Everest than avalanches, probably because it may be easier to avoid avalanches and there is no way to avoid the weather or severe altitude sickness. So the mountain has no ''safe'' routes, and the best way to survive is to not spend a lot of time up high. 

Other Dartmouth Alumni climbers include Jack Durrance (K2 1939, Tetons, Devils Tower), Barry Corbett (Everest 1963), Henry Coulter (1947 Tetons Guidebook), Andrew Harvard and Boyd Everett (both on Dhaulagiri 1969).

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club 

Organizes rock and ice climbing trips and competitions. Founded in 1936 by Jack Durrance, the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club is a student-run club dedicated to exploring climbing around the world and introducing beginners to the sport. The nearby climbing areas most frequented by members of the club are Winslow Cliffs near the Dartmouth Skiway; Rumney, an East Coast sport climbing venue that attracts climbers from as far away as Montreal and Boston; Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch; and Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges near North Conway.

Every term, the club runs four beginner trips out to either Rumney or Winslow, one intermediate/advanced trip to Cathedral or Cannon, and one weekend trip to the Shawangunks in New Paltz, New York. In the winter, DMC clubbers ice climb at Holt's Ledge, Rumney, and Crawford Notch near Mt. Washington. When spring break rolls around, the DMC ventures out West to climb in a warmer locale for two weeks. 

For the past two years, Red Rocks, Nevada has been the destination of choice. DMC members seeking adventure can apply for money from the Mountaineering Club Expeditionary Fund. Initially established in 1963 as the John E. Breitenbach Memorial Fund and later renamed in 1973, its stated purpose is to fund expeditions planned and executed by club members. After their travels, once they are back on campus, the students present a slide-show of their experiences to the Dartmouth community, so sharing what they learned and accomplished.
 

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