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THE ROOF CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO TRINITY Geoffrey Winthrop Young 1930 2nd ed Near Fine Noel Odell's copy.
By Young, Geoffrey Winthrop
Price: $299.00

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SIGNED N.E. Odell Camb. 31.5.48

UK, 1930 [1899], New edition (2nd ed). 48 pp, building diagrams. One of the first books of mountaineering humor, of building climbing (buildering), and a rare classic of British climbing. Original paperback binding, slight edge fading, no wear, no flaws, Fine.

Noel Odell was a beloved climber of the early days of Everest. He is remembered for being the partner Mallory left behind, to take the younger Sandy Irvine, on their tragic attempt on Everest in June 1924. Odell had a telescope and saw Mallory and Irvine disappear into the clouds, and found their remnant of a camp the next day. 

Less well remembered is that it was Noel Odell who took Irvine on a brutal trip to Spitsbergen the previous year, to test him, to see if he was Everest material. He was, and it was Odell who recommended that the team take Sandy Irvine along. 

Odell is well known in America because he lived here for a number of years, taught geology at Harvard, and did the first winter ascent of the forbidding Odell's Gully in Huntington Ravine on Mount Washington, NH. Perhaps that residence here is why so many of his books have appeared in the USA. 
 
Geoffrey Winthrop-Young was the father of modern climbing and set new routes in the Alps, Lake District and Wales. A pacifist, he lost his leg whilst driving an ambulance in WWI but after the war continued to climb with an artificial leg and over the next few years reached the summits of the Matterhorn and Zinal Rothorn. He was president of the Climbers' Club and of the Alpine Club and it was through his efforts that the British Mountaineering Council was created in 1945.  

'It's an enjoyable jeu d'esprit and leaves one feeling admiration for the  daring of Winthrop-Young and his fellow climbers.' - The Independent Jan 2010.

"A true parody of the 'Alpine Guides' that started to appear around the turn of the century, this narrative schematic to the 'finest view in the college Alps' is informal, amusing, informative andinspiring as well as being sophisticated, erudite and very witty.'
 
Geoffrey Winthrop Young

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Geoffrey Winthrop Young (1876 – 1958) was a British climber, poet and educator, and author of several notable books on mountaineering.

Young began rock climbing shortly before his first term at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he studied Classics and won the Chancellor's Medal for English Verse two years running. While there, Young wrote a humorous college climbing guide called The Roof-Climber's Guide to Trinity, in part a parody of early alpine guidebooks, in part a useful reference work for those, like him, who were keen to clamber up Cambridge's highest spires.

During the Edwardian Period, and up until the outbreak of hostilities heralding World War I, Young made several new and difficult ascents in the Alps, including noted routes on the Zermatt Breithorn (the 'Younggrat'), the west ridge of the Gspaltenhorn, on the west face of the Weisshorn, and a dangerous and rarely repeated route on the south face of the Täschhorn. His finest rock climb was the Mer de Glace face of the Aiguille du Grépon. In 1911, with H. O. Jones, he ascended the Brouillard ridge of Mont Blanc and made the first complete traverse of the west ridge of the Grandes Jorasses, and the first decent of the ridge to the Col des Hirondelles. His favoured, but not only, guide was Joseph Knubel of St Niklaus.

Winthrop Young also put up new routes on the crags of the Lake District and Wales. He was elected president of the Climbers' Club in 1913, and he organised the Pen-y-Pass gatherings that propelled the advancement of rock climbing and included such technical luminaries as J. M. Archer Thompson, George Leigh Mallory, Siegfried Herford, John Percy Farrar and Oscar Eckenstein. These parties, beginning in earnest about 1907, and sometimes reaching sixty men, women and children, flooded the hotel and overflowed into Eckenstein's miner's cabin and various tents. They came to an end in 1914.

During the war, Young was at first a correspondent for the liberal Daily News, but later, as a conscientious objector, was active in the FAU, the Friends' Ambulance Unit. He received several decorations, but on 31 August 1917 an explosion caused injuries requiring the amputation of one of his legs. After the amputation, Young walked sixteen miles in two days to avoid being captured by the Austrians. He continued alpine climbing for a number of years – using a specially designed artificial leg that accepted a number of attachments for snow and rock work – and climbed the Matterhorn in 1928.

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