Chessler Books
Rock Climbing - Mountaineering - Exploration
New - Used - Collectible - Signed
Chessler Books Accepts PAYPAL Chessler Books Accepts VISA Chessler Books Accepts MASTERCARD Chessler Books Accepts DISCOVER CARD Chessler Books Accepts AMERICAN EXPRESS
All Orders Shipped via United States Postal Service   Chessler Books Ships Via USPS
Author:
Title:
Keyword:
Item #:
A B C D E F G H I
J K L M Mc N O P Q
R S T U V W X Y Z
Item #: OP72002AB-334B
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck tipped in
By Sale, Richard
Price: $54.99

List Price: $150.00
You Save $95.01 (63%)



Add to wish list


Detailed Product Description

SIGNED (Tipped In) BY Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck.

UK, 2004, 1st UK edition. 208 pp, 48 color & 18 b/w photos, sketches, appendix. This the first full account of the 1st ascent of Broad Peak (aka K3 and Faichan Kangri) in 1957 by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger, drawing on the climbing diaries of Schmuck and Wintersteller and accounts written by Buhl. None of this material has ever been published before. 

The account is supported by conversations with Kurt Diemberger and with Qader Saeed, who was the expedition's Pakistani liaison officer. The book includes an account of Buhl's last climb and death on Chogolisa, from the protocol written by the surviving team members on the day Diemberger returned to Base Camp after the accident. The book begins with a history of Broad Peak, including the first ever drawing of the mountain (from Martin Conway's expedition of 1892), the first ever photograph (from the Eckenstein expedition of 1902) and Vittorio Sella's panorama from the Duke of Abruzzi expedition of 1909.

There is also an account of the first attempt on the Peak by the Karl Herrligkoffer expedition of 1954. The book ends with an Appendix of all summit climbs from 1957-2004. The photos from the 1957 expedition are almost entirely from previously unpublished work of Schmuck and Wintersteller. New Hardcover with dust jacket.

One of the most impressive Himalayan ascents of the last century was Austrian party of Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl’s 1957 first ascent of Pakistan’s 8,047 m Broad Peak.This was achieved by a small team without artificial oxygen who ferried all the loads to the high camps. The trip ended with the tragic death of top Austrian climber Hermann Buhl, who fell through a cornice duringa reconnaissance of Chogolisa.

Now, this book by Richard Sale, Broad Peak, discusses the dynamics between the climbers themselves and the effect of Buhl’s death on the way the trip has been reported. In the past, the roles ofthe massively strong Schmuck and the talented Wintersteller have been downplayed, even though they performed brilliantly as a team and made the first ascent of the peak. Another little recognized aspect of such trips is the role played by liaison officers. On the 1957 expedition, a dashing young Pakistani infantry officer, Quader Saeed was the liaison officer.

Saeed emigrated to Toronto in 1971 and now runs a grocery store there. Saeed instantly liked the climbers, an impression made stronger when Buhl had a pair of boots flown to Rawalpindi from Austria because the expedition had none that fit him. Saeed saved the men from difficulties on several occasions. “I had to explain to them that we were five men and that there were forty porters and we were a long way from any help. They demanded sunglasses, and one of the climbers said,‘be tough, tell them no.’ Instead, I asked the porters why they needed these glasses now, when they had never needed them before, in all their travels in exactly the same areas. We had to pay them for the glasses, but avoided a conflict.” 

Saeed was devastated by the death of Buhl, and tears still come to his eyes when he describes Diemberger coming to the camp with the news. Saeed stays in touch with Schmuck and Wintersteller and visits their homes in Austria every few years. He has two photographsof himself and Schmuck climbing on Broad Peak on the wall of his store and follows the climbing news about Broad Peak.  Saeed greeted Sales’ book enthusiastically because,according to him, it is the first book to set the record straight about one of the most impressive ascents in Pakistan’s history and one of hismost treasured memories. Shortlisted for the 2005 Boardman Tasker Award.


Other Items You Might Like

  • Similar Items Available
  • Items From This Author
  • Items From This Category
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 DJ New SIGNED by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $199.99 ~ Regular $600.00, You Save $400.01 (67%)
- Item # OP72002AB-334A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK Richard Sale 2004 1st ed DJ New.
By: Sale, Richard
Price $44.95
- Item # BK2002
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $44.99 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $105.01 (70%)
- Item # OP72002AB-334C
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
GROSSE BERGFAHRTEN [BIG MOUNTAIN RIDES] Hermann Buhl 1974 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By: Buhl, Hermann
Price $99.00
- Item # OP5273-178
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
NANGA PARBAT PILGRIMAGE: LONELY CHALLENGE Hermann Buhl 2009 New Paperback 4 Copies Available
By: Buhl, Hermann.
Price $9.95 ~ Regular $21.95, You Save $12.00 (55%)
- Item # BK215-7894
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
K2 CHOGORI DER GROSSE BERG [K2 CHOGORI THE BIG MOUNTAIN] Reinhold Messner 2004 1st ed Hardcover DJ New [Not Signed]
By: Messner, Reinhold
Price $39.99
- Item # BK1987-851
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
K2 LA MIA AVVENTURA: DIARIO DI UNA SPEDIZIONE IN CIMA AL MONDO [K2 MY ADVENTURE: DIARY OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD] Michele Comi 2004 1st ed New Softcover
By: Comi, Michele
Price $99.00
- Item # OP5327-178
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
Kilimanjaro: Complete Trekker's Guide Alexander Stewart 2004 New
By: Stewart
Price $19.95
- Item # GB2042
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
GASHERBRUM 2 POSTER SIGNED BY KURT DIEMBERGER
By: Diemberger, Kurt
Price $45.00
- Item # PS103
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
KHANGCHENDZONGA: SACRED SUMMIT. Pema Wangchuk 2007 1st edition Hardover DJ Fine SIGNED by Tony Streather, Joe Brown and Pema Wangchuk
By: Wangchuk, Pete and Zulca, Mita.
Price $195.00 ~ Regular $250.00, You Save $55.00 (22%)
- Item # OP9999AB-N
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK Richard Sale 2004 1st ed DJ New.
By: Sale, Richard
Price $44.95
- Item # BK2002
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MAPPING THE HIMALAYAS: MICHAEL WARD AND THE PUNDIT HERITAGE Michael Ward Richard Sale 2009 New condition
By: Sale, Richard and Michael Ward
Price $295.00
- Item # BK2400-377
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $44.99 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $105.01 (70%)
- Item # OP72002AB-334C
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ON TOP OF THE WORLD: THE NEW MILLENIUM: THE CONTINUING QUEST TO CLIMB THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAINS Richard Sale. 2012 Updated Edition DJ New
By: Sale, Richard, Eberhard Jurgalski, & George Rodway
Price $59.95
- Item # BK2592A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 DJ New SIGNED by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $199.99 ~ Regular $600.00, You Save $400.01 (67%)
- Item # OP72002AB-334A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE LIST: AN ICE CLIMBER'S SAD DIARY James P. Sweeney 2012
By: Sweeney, James P.
Price $17.95
- Item # BK2582
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EIGER DREAMS: VENTURES AMONG MOUNTAINS AND MEN. 1990 1st edition DJ Fine. SIGNED by Jon Krakauer, John Gill and Kurt Diemberger
By: Krakauer, Jon
Price $294.99 ~ Regular $450.00, You Save $155.01 (34%)
- Item # OP807AB-334
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MEIN LEBEN [MY LIFE] 2003 Hardcover DJ New 2 Copies Available SIGNED by Heinrich Harrer
By: Harrer, Heinrich
Price $99.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $51.00 (34%)
- Item # BK1892-6112
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
STORIES OF A YOUNG CLIMBER Pat Ament 1996 1st ed Paperback Multiple copies available
By: Ament, Pat
Price $2.99 ~ Regular $25.00, You Save $22.01 (88%)
- Item # BK1790B-7965
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
DER VERZAUBERTE BERG [THE ENCHANTED MOUNTAIN, MESSNER MOUNTAIN MUSEUM: ENCOUNTERS WITH THE MOUNTAINS IN THE WORLD AND THE PHILOSOPHY OF MOUNTAINEERING] 2006 1st ed Hardcover DJ New 2 Copies Available SIGNED by Reinhold Messner
By: Messner, Reinhold and Georg Tappeiner
Price $79.99 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $70.01 (47%)
- Item # BK2277A-8512
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MAN IN THE ICE: A 5,000-YEAR-OLD BODY REVEALS SECRETS OF THE STONE AGE Konrad Spindler 1994 1st ed DJ
By: Spindler, Konrad.
Price $15.00 ~ Regular $34.95, You Save $19.95 (57%)
- Item # BK1469
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
A PASSAGE TO HIMALAYA Harish Kapadia 2001 1st ed Hardcover DJ New SIGNED by Chris Bonington
By: Kapadia, Harish (Editor)
Price $9.95 ~ Regular $34.95, You Save $25.00 (72%)
- Item # BK2290A-274
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
WHERE MEN WIN GLORY THE ODYSSEY OF PAT TILLMAN Jon Krakauer 2009 First Edition Hardcover DJ New SIGNED by Jon Krakauer
By: Krakauer, Jon
Price $25.99 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $24.01 (48%)
- Item # OP2508AB-334
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
HIGH SUMMER: BACKPACKING THE CANADIAN ROCKIES Chris Townsend Hardcover
By: Townsend, Chris.
Price $1.99 ~ Regular $25.00, You Save $23.01 (92%)
- Item # BK1572
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SPIRIT OF THE ROCK Ron Kauk 2003 1st ed Hardcover DJ New Multiple Copies Available
By: Kauk, Ron. Photos by Galen Rowell, Greg Epperson
Price $1.95 ~ Regular $16.95, You Save $15.00 (88%)
- Item # BK1928-27414
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart