Chessler Books
Rock Climbing - Mountaineering - Exploration
New - Used - Collectible - Signed
Chessler Books Accepts PAYPAL Chessler Books Accepts VISA Chessler Books Accepts MASTERCARD Chessler Books Accepts DISCOVER CARD Chessler Books Accepts AMERICAN EXPRESS
All Orders Shipped via United States Postal Service   Chessler Books Ships Via USPS
Author:
Title:
Keyword:
Item #:
A B C D E F G H I
J K L M Mc N O P Q
R S T U V W X Y Z
Item #: OP72002AB-257A
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 DJ New SIGNED by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By Sale, Richard
Price: $250.00

List Price: $600.00
You Save $350.00 (58%)



Add to wish list


Detailed Product Description



SIGNED BY Richard Sale, Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck (who is now deceased). 

UK, 2004, 1st UK edition. 208 pp, 48 color & 18 b/w photos, sketches, appendix. This the first full account of the 1st ascent of Broad Peak (aka K3 and Faichan Kangri) in 1957 by Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger, drawing on the climbing diaries of Schmuck and Wintersteller and accounts written by Buhl. None of this material has ever been published before.  New Hardcover with dust jacket.

The account is supported by conversations with Kurt Diemberger and with Qader Saeed, who was the expedition's Pakistani liaison officer. The book includes an account of Buhl's last climb and death on Chogolisa, from the protocol written by the surviving team members on the day Diemberger returned to Base Camp after the accident. The book begins with a history of Broad Peak, including the first ever drawing of the mountain (from Martin Conway's expedition of 1892), the first ever photograph (from the Eckenstein expedition of 1902) and Vittorio Sella's panorama from the Duke of Abruzzi expedition of 1909.

There is also an account of the first attempt on the Peak by the Karl Herrligkoffer expedition of 1954. The book ends with an Appendix of all summit climbs from 1957-2004. The photos from the 1957 expedition are almost entirely from previously unpublished work of Schmuck and Wintersteller.

One of the most impressive Himalayan ascents of the last century was Austrian party of Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl’s 1957 first ascent of Pakistan’s 8,047 m Broad Peak.This was achieved by a small team without artificial oxygen who ferried all the loads to the high camps. The trip ended with the tragic death of top Austrian climber Hermann Buhl, who fell through a cornice duringa reconnaissance of Chogolisa.

Now, this book by Richard Sale, Broad Peak, discusses the dynamics between the climbers themselves and the effect of Buhl’s death on the way the trip has been reported. In the past, the roles ofthe massively strong Schmuck and the talented Wintersteller have been downplayed, even though they performed brilliantly as a team and made the first ascent of the peak. Another little recognized aspect of such trips is the role played by liaison officers. On the 1957 expedition, a dashing young Pakistani infantry officer, Quader Saeed was the liaison officer.

Saeed emigrated to Toronto in 1971 and now runs a grocery store there. Saeed instantly liked the climbers, an impression made stronger when Buhl had a pair of boots flown to Rawalpindi from Austria because the expedition had none that fit him. Saeed saved the men from difficulties on several occasions. “I had to explain to them that we were five men and that there were forty porters and we were a long way from any help. They demanded sunglasses, and one of the climbers said,‘be tough, tell them no.’ Instead, I asked the porters why they needed these glasses now, when they had never needed them before, in all their travels in exactly the same areas. We had to pay them for the glasses, but avoided a conflict.” 

Saeed was devastated by the death of Buhl, and tears still come to his eyes when he describes Diemberger coming to the camp with the news. Saeed stays in touch with Schmuck and Wintersteller and visits their homes in Austria every few years. He has two photographsof himself and Schmuck climbing on Broad Peak on the wall of his store and follows the climbing news about Broad Peak.  Saeed greeted Sales’ book enthusiastically because,according to him, it is the first book to set the record straight about one of the most impressive ascents in Pakistan’s history and one of hismost treasured memories. Shortlisted for the 2005 Boardman Tasker Award.


Other Items You Might Like

  • Similar Items Available
  • Items From This Author
  • Items From This Category
BROAD PEAK Richard Sale 2004 1st ed DJ New.
By: Sale, Richard
Price $44.95
- Item # BK2002
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck tipped in
By: Sale, Richard
Price $65.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $85.00 (57%)
- Item # OP72002AB-257B
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $50.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $100.00 (67%)
- Item # OP72002AB-257C
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST AND CONQUEST IN THE HIMALAYA: SCIENCE AND COURAGE ON THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAIN George Rodway & Richard Sale 2011 1st Ed NEW DJ MULTIPLE COPIES AVAILABLE
By: Rodway, George & Richard Sale
Price $4.95 ~ Regular $39.95, You Save $35.00 (88%)
- Item # BK2495-156
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SELECTED CLIMBS IN ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK 1980 1st ed SIGNED by Richard Dumais
By: Dumais, Richard
Price $20.00 ~ Regular $35.00, You Save $15.00 (43%)
- Item # OPG48
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
NANGA PARBAT PILGRIMAGE: LONELY CHALLENGE Hermann Buhl 2009 New Paperback 5 copies available
By: Buhl, Hermann.
Price $9.95 ~ Regular $21.95, You Save $12.00 (55%)
- Item # BK215-7895
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
DER SIEBTE SINN [THE SEVENTH SENSE] 2004 1st ed Hardcover DJ New SIGNED by Kurt Diemberger
By: Diemberger, Kurt.
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $65.00, You Save $55.01 (85%)
- Item # BK2099-765
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ON TOP OF THE WORLD: THE NEW MILLENIUM: THE CONTINUING QUEST TO CLIMB THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAINS Richard Sale. 2012 Updated Edition DJ New
By: Sale, Richard, Eberhard Jurgalski, & George Rodway
Price $59.95
- Item # BK2592A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
SHAWANGUNK ROCK CLIMBING NEW 2ND EDITION. 2006 DJ New SIGNED by Richard Dumais
By: Dumais, Richard.
Price $40.00
- Item # OP72B-375
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AUFBRUCH INS UNGEWISSE: ABENTEUER ZWISCHEN K2, SINKIANG UND AMAZONAS [DEPARTURE INTO THE UNKNOWN: ADVENTURE BETWEEN K2, SINKIANG AND THE AMAZON] 2004 Hardcover DJ New 2 Copies Available SIGNED by Diemberger
By: Diemberger, Kurt
Price $9.99 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $65.01 (87%)
- Item # BK2279-7652
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK Richard Sale 2004 1st ed DJ New.
By: Sale, Richard
Price $44.95
- Item # BK2002
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MAPPING THE HIMALAYAS: MICHAEL WARD AND THE PUNDIT HERITAGE Michael Ward Richard Sale 2009 New condition
By: Sale, Richard and Michael Ward
Price $295.00
- Item # BK2400-377
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Richard Sale
By: Sale, Richard
Price $50.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $100.00 (67%)
- Item # OP72002AB-257C
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ON TOP OF THE WORLD: THE NEW MILLENIUM: THE CONTINUING QUEST TO CLIMB THE WORLD'S HIGHEST MOUNTAINS Richard Sale. 2012 Updated Edition DJ New
By: Sale, Richard, Eberhard Jurgalski, & George Rodway
Price $59.95
- Item # BK2592A
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
BROAD PEAK FIRST ASCENT. 2004 1st ed DJ New SIGNED by Fritz Wintersteller and Marcus Schmuck tipped in
By: Sale, Richard
Price $65.00 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $85.00 (57%)
- Item # OP72002AB-257B
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
CHO OYU HIMAL AND KYAJO RI HIMAL GUIDEBOOK Kilekowski 1995
By: Kielkowski, Jan
Price $85.00
- Item # GB296
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST A TREKKER'S GUIDE: TREKKING ROUTES IN NEPAL AND TIBET
By: Reynolds, Kev
Price $22.95
- Item # GB2224
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
TIBET: ROOF OF THE WORLD. PASSPORT BOOKS
By: Booz, Elisabeth
Price $9.95 ~ Regular $19.95, You Save $10.00 (50%)
- Item # GB465
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
DIE GOTTIN DES TURKIS: DER WEG ZUM CHO OYU [THE GODDESS OF TURQUOISE: THE WAY TO CHO OYU] Hardcover DJ Near Fine SIGNED by Reinhold Messner
By: Messner, Reinhold
Price $49.99 ~ Regular $100.00, You Save $50.01 (50%)
- Item # OP5121-324
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
FLIGHT OF THE WIND HORSE Niema Ash 1992 1st ed New Paperback 2 Copies Available
By: Ash, Niema
Price $4.95 ~ Regular $20.00, You Save $15.05 (75%)
- Item # BK61-7882
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
NAMJAG-BARWA MOUNTAINEERING MAP. 1:50,000. NAMCHA BARWA MAP
Price $29.95
- Item # MP77
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
CLIMBING BEIJING CHINA
By: Otto
Price $19.95
- Item # GB21
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
DIE GROSSEN KALTEN BERGE VON SZETSCHUAN: ERLEBNISSE, FORSCHUNGEN UND KARTIERUNGEN IM MINYA-KONKA-GEBIRGE [THE GREAT COLD MOUNTAINS OF SZETSCHUAN: EXPERIENCES, RESEARCH AND MAPPING IN THE MINYA KONKA MOUNTAINS] Eduard Imhof 1974 1st ed Hardcover Fine
By: Imhof, Eduard
Price $19.99 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $55.01 (73%)
- Item # OP4087-874
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ZELTE IM GLETCHEREIS IN DEN HOCHGEBIRGEN MITTELASIENS [TENTS IN GLACIAL ICE IN THE HIGHLANDS OF CENTRAL ASIA] Gunter Skeib, Georg Dittrich 1960 1st ed Hardcover No DJ Fine
By: Skeib, Gunter and Dittrich, Georg
Price $9.99
- Item # OP3719-629
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
PAMIR EAST, CHINA, KYRGYSTAN, TADJIKISTAN TOPOGRAPHIC MAP 1:500,000
Price $19.95
- Item # MP255
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart