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Item #: BK7609-267
GOING UP: TALES TOLD ALONG THE ROAD TO EL CAPITAN 2012 1st ed New Hardcover DJ SIGNED by Joe Fitschen
By Fitschen, Joe
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Detailed Product Description
New York, 2012, 1st edition. 427 pages; 33 b/w photographs. New hardcover with dust jacket.

SIGNED on the half title page BY JOE FITSCHEN.

One of the original twenty climbers who lived the Golden Age of Yosemite climbing in the 1950s and 1960s has created a most remarkable book. Joe Fitschen acknowledges that Steve Roper's book Camp 4 is the definitive chronicle of all the major climbs in Yosemite during this period, so Joe decided to do something else, much broader, and deeper. 
 
What Fitschen has done is to go beyond Yosemite to tell us in a personal way of all the Yosemite and non-Yosemite climbs that these remarkable climbers did. So we hear of their forays to Tahquitz Rock in Southern California, their pioneering ascents in the (mostly Utah) Southwest desert, especially the grand tower climbs, Longs Peak in Colorado, and even trips to Alaska. He also recalls the personalities of that colorful group. His partners and friends included Royal Robbins of course, Gary Hemming, Layton Kor, Chuck Pratt, Bill 'Dolt' Feuerer, Allen Steck, Steve Roper, Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard, Gerry Gallwas, Warren Harding, TM Herbert, Mark Powell, Wayne Merry, Mike Sherrick, Don Wilson, Chuck Wilts plus many others.
 
Fitschen was on numerous historic climbs, perhaps most famously the second ascent of the Nose. He also did the second ascent of the regular route on Half Dome, the first one day ascent of the Steck Salathe route on Sentinal Rock with Royal Robbins, the Royal Arches Direct, and numerous routes on the Cathedral Rocks, all in Yosemite. What characterized these climbs is that already on just the second ascent, these men created the format of all subsequent climbs, the one burst, dispensing with siege tactics ascent. This was a big and unanticipated change in tactics, as nobody really knew what they were creating, or even what significance they had in the world of climbing or beyond. They reduce the time on climbs, in many cases from several days to one day.
 
It was a happy time of finding the right style and ethics of climbing, along with developing the actual techniques, as well as the gear. I don't know if this pattern of fast evolution exists in other sports, but it certainly did then, in rock climbing in Yosemite Valley and the American West. It is really America's gift to the climbing world, high standard rock climbing on big walls.
 
Fitschen was a meteor, climbing for a number of years, and then leaving to teach in a Northern California College. He spent occasional summers guiding rock climbing in Yosemite and the Tetons. Now he is retired (to New York City!), and luckily for us, decided to tell his stories in a book, and not in a paperback or E-book, but in a real honest-to-God hardcover book with a real dust jacket, with original art on the cover!

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