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Item #: OP4-489
THE SHINING MOUNTAIN: TWO MEN ON CHANGABANG'S WEST WALL Peter Boardman 1982 1st USA ed. No DJ Near Fine SIGNED by Chris Bonington and Doug Scott
By Boardman, Peter (epilogue by Chris Bonington)
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Detailed Product Description
SIGNED by Chris Bonington and Doug Scott

New York, 1982, 1st USA edition. 193 pp, photos, glossary, index. The ascent of Changabang with Joe Tasker. [Neate B120.] No dust jacket, Near Fine.


Changabang (6,864 m or 22,520 ft) is a mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many world-class climbs. It does not have a high topographic prominence, being slightly lower than its near neighbor Kalankato the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity. But its steep rocky profile has made it a much more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate.


Changabang was first climbed on June 4, 1974 by a team led by Chris Bonington, via the Southeast Face, leading to the East Ridge. This is the easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow and ice climb, as opposed to a rock climb with some snow, ice, or mixed terrain. The whole team summited: Chris Bonington, Martin Boysen, Alan Hankinson, Dougal Haston, Balwant 'Ballu' Sandhu and Doug Scott.


Other notable ascents of Changabang include some of the hardest climbs ever done in the Himalaya. The first of these is the ascent of the West Face by Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker in 1976. The route took over 25 days to ascend, and their use of big wall climbing techniques to overcome the serious, sustained difficulties was revolutionary.


In 1997, Andy Cave and Brendan Murphy made the first ascent of the North Face of Changabang, a 1,600 m (5,250 ft) route involving steep, sustained ice, mixed, and rock climbing. Unfortunately Murphy was hit by an avalanche and swept off the face to his death on the descent.


On October 12, 2006, two Mexican climbers, Andrés Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra, were successful in climbing Changabang by a new route. However, while descending, they encountered a storm and went missing on October 15, when they last made contact via satellite phone. India put on a rescue effort despite harsh weather conditions. On November 8, 2006, the search for them had been canceled due to inclement weather. (Adapted from Wikipedia).

The Shining Mountain by Peter Boardman was first published in 1978, three years after he had reached the summit of Everest on Chris Bonington's large-scale South West Face expedition (which Boardman irreverently described as 'the last great colonial experience'). The two-man ascent of Changabang, with Tasker, could not have been a more different undertaking, and was rated the hardest climb achieved in the Himalaya to that date. The book went on to win the John Llewelyn Rhys Prize in 1979.

Pete Boardman was a brilliant climber and an exceptional writer. Whilst still at school in the Alps he made the first British ascents of the North Face Direct of the Olan, the North Face of the Nesthorn and the North Face Direct of the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn. At the University of Nottingham he undertook his first expedition to the Hindu Kush of Afghanistan, climbing the North Face of Koh-I-Khaaik and making the first ascent of Kohi-Mundi.


A number of expeditions followed, and in 1975, he summited Everest via the South West face, as part of the second assault team, on an expedition on which fellow climber Mick Burke was tragically killed. In 1976 he joined forces with Joe Tasker and climbed the West Wall of Changabang, at its time probably the hardest Himalayan climb in the world.


Boardman successfully climbed Kangchenjunga in 1979 via the North Ridge. He returned to K2 in 1980, reaching a height of 7975 metres.


The book Sacred Summits covers his climbs of three sacred mountains over one climbing year. The first, in the new year, was the South Face of the Carstensz Pyramid in the Snow Mountains of New Guinea, one of the most inaccessible of peaks and the highest peak in Southeast Asia. In the spring with Doug Scott, Joe Tasker, and Georges Bettembourg, they made a four-man oxygenless attempt on Kanchenjunga, the world’s third highest peak, by the unclimbed North Ridge.


Twice beaten back by hurricane-force winds, on the third attempt they stood within feet of the summit, leaving the couple of yards untrodden in deference to the diety said to inhabit the very peak.


In October, with four others, he tackled the mountain most sacred to the Sherpas, Gauri Sankar, and made the first ascent of the South summit by the heavily corniced 4km long West Ridge which took an incredibly grueling 23 days.


He was killed on the North-North East ridge of Everest in 1982, along with his climbing partner Joe Tasker. In 1992 Boardman's body was found by climbers from Kazakhstan in a sitting position near the Second Pinnacle 'looking like he was asleep'. Boardman's body was identified through photographs by relatives in the UK.



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