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Item #: OP869A-113
LES TROIS DERNIERS PROBLEMES DES ALPES [THE THREE LAST PROBLEMS OF THE ALPS] Anderl Heckmair 1951 1st French ed Paperback DJ Near Fine
By Heckmair, Anderl
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Detailed Product Description

Paris and Grenoble, 1951, 1st edition. 173 pp, 39 photos, map. In French. Original paperback with black and red lettering; dust jacket with minor chipping. Book is Near Fine

Heckmair, who was with Harrer on the Eiger Nordwand first ascent, describes the three great Alpine Nordwands (North Faces): Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Eiger.

Anderl Heckmair, who died in 2005 at age 98, guided and climbed worldwide, making ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, Canadian Rockies, Coast Range of BC, Hunza, Karakoram, Hoggar and Ruwenzori of Africa and the Alps. Among his best ascents were the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand, early ascents of Matterhorn North Face, Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur, and Mount Waddington.

Heckmair was invited by Karl Herrligkoffer to join the 1953 Nanga Parbat expedition where Hermann Buhl made the first ascent. Due to a personality clash with Karl Herrligkoffer, the leader of the expedition, Heckmair withdrew from the team before it left Europe. It would have been interesting to see Buhl teamed with Heckmair. Heckmair, a really tough and fit climber, may have been able to keep pace with Buhl to the summit.


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