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Item #: OP108B-79911
ANNAPURNA FIRST CONQUEST OF AN 8000-METER PEAK [26,493 feet] 1953 5th printing Hardcover book is Near Fine, with the original DJ Near Fine [Not a Xerox copy!] SIGNED by Maurice Herzog Multiple copies available
By Herzog, Maurice
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Detailed Product Description

New York, 1953, 2,3,4 or 5th printing. 316 pp, 3 color photos, 25 b/w photos, 8 maps, 1 fold-out.  The book is in English, with no French language anywhere. Identical to the first edition, with all the original photos and text. This copy has a bright dust jacklet and book, both Near Fine to Fine condition.

Three years before the first ascent of Mount Everest, this French expedition was successful in making the first true ascent of the first 8000 peak to be climbed.

The most popular and inspiring narrative in the literature of mountaineering, and the first to become a 'bestseller.' The story of the French team that explored Dhaulagiri, discovered the approach to Annapurna, and made the 1st ascent.

SIGNED by Maurice Herzog!
 
 
 
 
 
Maurice Herzog signing Annapurnas for us in the 1990s and 2000s.
 
This is a longer description of the book: 

Annapurna ios by far the least climbed 8000 meter peak, probably because it is so dangerous. Only 191 climbers have summited Annapurna in 85 years!  Of those 191 climbers, 73 were climbing Annapurna while climbing all the 8000m peaks, both successfully or disputed. That leaves at most 112 ascents of Annapurna while not trying to complete the 8000er list. The only other 8000er that is as unpopular is Kangchenjunga, possibly because it too is deadly, and perhaps because there are no local Sherpas to depend on for load carrying and for guiding, and for rescue and for keeping the climb as safe as Everest.

This book is the gripping story of a major event in mountain climbing history. This is the official account of the 1950 French expedition to the Himalayas, written by the team leader Maurice Herzog, and is a must read for anyone who is interested in high altitude climbing. The book chronicles the successful first ascent by the French to climb any 8,000-meter peak in the Himalayas.
 
They team had a permit for two alternatives: Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. In those days, the Himalayas were largely uncharted and any topographical maps which existed at the time proved to be largely incorrect. So the French expedition spent a large portion of their time in reconnaissance. 

Not only were they there to climb the mountain, they first had to find a way to get to it and then map out a route over the unknown terrain to the summit. Ultimately, they chose to climb Annapurna. The climb took place without the sophisticated equipment such as the protective clothing available today. This was before Gore-tex and freeze-dried foods or weather reports. This climb was made before trekking and climbing the Himalayas became a major tourist attraction. 
 
IOn the 1950s the conditions for Himalayan travelers were extremely primitive and difficult under the best of circumstances. When the expedition finally found a route to Annapurna, the reader almost feels like cheering for them. When they start to climb, one senses that, in comparison to latter day expeditions, they were not well equipped or savvy about the dangers of a high altitude climb, and the risks in doing it without supplemental oxygen. They were pioneers. They were paving the way for others. Today Annapurna is now considered one of the deadliest of the 8000m peaks. 
 
The climb to the summit by Maurice Herzog and his partner, Chamonix guide Louis Lachenal, is gripping, but it is their harrowing descent and return to civilization which is riveting. The two summiteers began their descent inauspiciously enough but soon ran into difficulties. They were fortunate enough to have two fellow climbers, Lionel Terray and Gaston Rebuffat, who were contemplating planning their own summit assault but, instead chose to rescue their comrades in their descent, foregoing their own quest for the summit.
 
The travails which the climbers encountered on the descent would have finished off less hardy souls. Maurice Herzog lost his gloves during the climb and had no spare pair. One of climbers fell into a crevasse which, believe it or not, turned out to be a good thing. They were caught in an avalanche. They got lost in a storm. They became frostbitten and Herzog and Lachenal two of them were forced to endure finger and toe amputations. In the photo above you can see that Herzog lost 2/3 of every finger on both hands (this photo of Maurice Herzog holding a pen was taken in 1992 by Michael Chessler in San Francisco.)
 
The medical treatment they received by the expedition doctor was unbelievable and primitive. Employing treatments for frostbite that have since fallen onto disrepute (excruciatingly painful arterial injections, for example), the doctor was frightening. The reader cannot help but feel pity for the suffering the injured climbers endured: maggot ridden flesh, amputations without anesthesia, and lack of proper medical care for a protracted period of time. 

Every step taken by Herzog and his companions on this historic climb was charged with adventure – the days of travel through the Nepalese jungle, zigzagging through a wilderness of gorges and torrent streams, the preliminary exploration of the approaches to 'The Goddess of Harvests,' as the Nepalese call Annapurna, the back-breaking task of establishing a chain of camps (Base Camp at 14,750 feet, Camp 1 about 2,000 feet above, Camp 2 another 2,500 feet up, and on to Camp 5 at 24,300 feet). The summit is 26,545 feet for Americans, and 8091 meters for everybody else.  Annapurna is the 10th highest of the 14 8000 m peaks.

Snow whipping into their faces; cold stiffening their clothes; the glaze of the tropical sun blinding them; their bodies and brains sluggish from fatigue and lack of oxygen -- finally, a jubilant sense of victory and then the discovery that the worst was still ahead -- a long series of mishaps during the descent which plunged the expedition almost into total disaster.

Annapurna by Maurice Herzog is one of the great adventure classics of all time. It is also an enduring tribute to the spirit of man which is indestructible and against which anything can prefail.

Translated from the French by Nea Morin and Janet Adam Smith. Introduction by Eric Shipton.


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