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Item #: BK1317-539
LAST DAYS 1991 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine INSCRIBED by John Roskelley
By Roskelley, John
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Detailed Product Description
Pennsylvania, 1991, 1st edition. 211 pp, color photos. Hardcover with chipped dust jacket. Near Fine condition.

SIGNED/INSCRIBED by John Roskelley (also includes a card from Roskelley to the former owner)


Leading American alpinist John Roskelley writes about his climbs in the Himalaya, Tawoche (1989) and Menlungtse (1990), and the people of Nepal and Tibet. Roskelley, one of mountain climbing's more prominent figures, describes two of his Himalayan climbs: Tawoche's East Face in Nepal (summited 1984) and Menlungste's Southeast Ridge in Tibet (attempted 1990).

In addition to detailing the climbs, Roskelley offers his climbing ethics: a quick alpine-style climb is preferable to porter-supported battering of the route by teams of climbers; depend on skill and experience; opt out when luck is given too big a part in the climb. His point of view is that of a family man approaching middle age, yet his language is that of latter-day climbers.
 

Notable ascents:
1973 Northeast Ridge Dhaulagiri, Nepal. Third ascent of peak. Summit reached with Louis Reichardt and Nawang Samden, May 12, 1973.

1976 Northwest Face Nanda Devi, U.P., India. New route and fifth ascent of peak. Summit reached by Roskelley, Louis Reichardt and Jim States on September 1, 1976. Because Nanda Devi Unsoeld, the daughter of Willi Unsoeld, died on the mountain, Roskelley's article describing the climb was called 'Nanda Devi; the Tragic Expedition'.

1977 First Ascent of Great Trango Tower with Galen Rowell, Dennis Hennek, Kim Schmitz and Jim Morrissey.

1978 Northeast Ridge/East Face and Abruzzi Ridge K2, Pakistan. New route and third ascent of peak. Summit reached by Louis Reichardt and Jim Wickwire on September 6, 1978; Roskelley and Rick Ridgeway reached the summit the next day.] This was the first ascent of K2 by a team from the United States.

1979 West Face Gauri Sankar, Rolwaling Himalaya, Nepal. FA of Route and peak, with Sherpa Dorje, summitting on May 8, 1979.

1979 East Face (VII F8 A4) Uli Biaho, Karakorum, Pakistan. FA of route and peak with Ron Kauk, Bill Forrest and Kim Schmitz.

1989 Northeast Face Taboche, Nepal. First ascent of route by Jeff Lowe and John Roskelley, reaching the summit on February 13, 1989. Climb chronicled in 'Last Days' by John Roskelley

1995 Roskelley, Tim Macartney-Snape, Stephen Venables, Jim Wickwire and Charlie Porter attempted a new route on Monte Sarmiento, on the western shores of Tierra del Fuego, where Roskelley, Macartney-Snape and Venables summited via new route up the southwest face of the western summit.


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