Berlin, Ullstein, 1957, abridged version of the first edition published in 1955. 157 pp, 22 b/w photos, sketch map. In German. Blue cloth hardcover with dust jacket. Near Fine.
The first ascent of Cho Oyu by the smallest team ever to do an 8000m peak first ascent; there were only three Europeans and seven Sherpas. Tichy and two others reached the summit.
This is the account of the first ascent of Cho Oyu (8201m), the sixth highest mountain on the planet. The ascent was made in 1954 by a small, lightweight team led by Herbert Tichy (1912-1987). Cho Oyu was formerly believed to be 8153m high (seventh or eighth highest mountain) but more accurate height measurements show it is 8201m high, thus the sixth highest mountain. The summit was reached by Herbert Tichy, Pasang Dawa Lama, and Sepp Jöchler.
Tichy was an itinerent scholar with a doctorate in geology, but the bulk of his work was in geography. He traveled to the Himalaya many times as well as to other remote regions of the world (Africa, Tibet, China, Alaska), usually alone with one or two locals. Thus he learned intimate details of local cultures and traditions. He became lifelong friends with many of the local people that joined him during his travels. This type of casual but intimate experience is evident in his writing and is a big part of why this is one of the best accounts of climbing an 8000er.