Chessler Books
Rock Climbing - Mountaineering - Exploration
New - Used - Collectible - Signed
Chessler Books Accepts PAYPAL Chessler Books Accepts VISA Chessler Books Accepts MASTERCARD Chessler Books Accepts DISCOVER CARD Chessler Books Accepts AMERICAN EXPRESS
All Orders Shipped via United States Postal Service   Chessler Books Ships Via USPS
Author:
Title:
Keyword:
Item #:
A B C D E F G H I
J K L M Mc N O P Q
R S T U V W X Y Z
Item #: OP264-931
WHITE FURY: GAURISANKAR AND CHO OYU Raymond Lambert and Claude Kogan 1956 1st ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine
By Lambert, Raymond and Claude Kogan
Price: $49.00

List Price: $75.00
You Save $26.00 (35%)



Add to wish list


Detailed Product Description
London, 1956, 1st edition. 176 pp, b/w photos. Blue cloth hardcover with repaired dust jacket. Book is fine. Near Fine overall.  

French-Swiss reconnaissance of Gaurisankar, Cho Oyu and Menlungtse in 1954. [Neate L05.] Account of the Franco-Swiss expedition of 1954, reconnoitering the difficult Gaurisankar (7145m) and Menlungtse. The party then attempted Cho Oyu (8156m) being beaten by winter gales. Lambert, a Swiss guide, made an heroic attempt to gain Everest's south summit in 1952. Claude Kogan, a leading French climber, died on Cho Oyu in 1959. 

From Wikipedia: Raymond Lambert (18 October 1914 25 February 1997) was a Swiss mountaineer, who with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay reached an altitude of 8611 metres (just 237 metres from the summit) of Mount Everest in May 1952. By that time it was the highest point that a climber had ever reached. There was a second Swiss expedition in autumn 1952, but a party including Lambert and Tenzing was forced to turn back at a slightly lower point. The following year Tenzing returned with Edmund Hillary to reach the summit on 29 May 1953.

He was born Raymond Jules Eugene Lambert in Geneva, where he made his home for his entire life. Lambert was member to a group of elite Genevois climbers. With this group, Lambert tested his skills against French, German and Italian rivals to become the first ascenders of the hardest new climbs in the Mont Blanc Range.

Second ascents of the Croz Spur on the Grandes Jorasses and the North Face of the Drus (where his name is immortalised in the Fissure Lambert) put him at the forefront of international mountaineering; however, it was one climb in particular, in 1938, that gave Lambert true legendary status: a winter ascent of the Aiguilles Diables. Caught in a violent February storm, the climbing party found themselves stranded on the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Lambert was the only one capable of contacting rescue. After three days sheltering in a crevasse, all of Lambert's toes were severely frostbitten. Subsequently, all of his toes were amputated.

Everest

Within a year after the amputation, Lambert was climbing again. His mountaineering career continued through the Second World War and in 1952 he was an obvious choice for Edouard Wyss-Dunant's Genevois expedition to Everest. Tibet was now closed to foreigners but Nepal had just opened up.

The previous year Eric Shipton's British-New Zealand reconnaissance had climbed the Khumbu Icefall and reached the elusive Western Cwm, proving that Everest could be climbed from Nepal. Unfortunately for the British, who had enjoyed exclusive access to the mountain for 21 years, the Nepal government gave the 1952 permit to the Swiss. Building on Shipton's experience, the Genevans reached the head of the Western Cwm and climbed the huge face above to the desolate, wind-swept plateau of the South Col. Three Swiss climbers and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay continued towards the summit, pitching a tent at 8,400m. Two returned, leaving Tenzing and Lambert, who had become firm friends, to make a summit attempt.

High altitude mountaineering in 1952 was still in its infancy. Even Swiss organisation and technology were not up to the job and, apart from Tenzing, the Sherpas had little experience. Despite the best plans, Tenzing and Lambert now had to spend a night at 8,400m with no sleeping bags and no stove, producing a trickle of drinking water by melting snow over a candle.

The oxygen sets were barely operable and when the two men continued in the morning, they were effectively climbing without oxygen. They struggled heroically, at times crawling on all fours, hindered by the dead weight of malfunctioning oxygen sets, finally grinding to a halt near 8595m, approximately 250m short of the summit.

Assuming that George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did not reach higher in 1924, this was the highest than anyone had ever been. Lambert's extraordinary determination was further confirmed that autumn when, alone out of the spring team, he returned for the second Swiss attempt on Everest. This time he and Tenzing were driven back from the South Col by the November jet stream winds and, to the immense relief of the British team, preparing for 1953, the Swiss admitted defeat.

After Everest

Lambert returned to Nepal in 1954, trespassing across the Tibetan frontier to attempt Gaurisankar, and in 1955 to make the first ascent with Eric Gauchat and Claude Kogan of Ganesh I (7,429m). Subsequent expeditions took him to Pakistan and South America. Then in 1959 he embarked on a completely new career and by 1963, now married with two children, he was a fully qualified glacier pilot, flying to remote and inaccessible icy areas - a vocation which brought him considerable fame until he finally stopped flying in 1987 at the age of 72.

Honor & Respect

John Hunt recalls meeting Raymond Lambert in 1953 to learn as much as he could about the Swiss attempt on Everest: ''Despite their disappointment, the Swiss were most helpful. However, Raymond told me tactfully, 'Monsieur Colonel, vous aurez gros problemes,' meaning, that we hadn't a hope in hell [You will have big problems.].'

On 26 May 1953, exactly a year after Lambert's attempt, Hunt himself photographed the skeletal remains of the tent at 8,400m. Said Hunt: ''It brought home the significance of their performance and made me force myself 50m higher up the ridge, to deposit the supplies for our final camp.'' Three days later Tenzing and Hillary reached the summit.

On the way home, the team stopped off at Zurich airport and met the Swiss trailblazers again. Lord Hunt recalls: ''They offered us unreserved applause. In later years Raymond and I became close friends. He was not a demonstrative person, but the warmth of personality, once bestowed, was very precious to me.''

Other Items You Might Like

  • Similar Items Available
  • Items From This Author
  • Items From This Category
RECORD A L'HIMALAYA [WHITE FURY: GAURISANKAR AND CHO OYU] Raymond Lambert, Claude Kogan 1955 1st ed Softcover Wrappers Fine
By: Lambert, Raymond and Claude Kogan
Price $35.00 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $40.00 (53%)
- Item # OP264A-931
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MAN AGAINST MT. EVEREST MOVIE [Swiss Everest 1952] 1954 Castle 8 mm Film
By: Everest Swiss Castle Film
Price $24.99
- Item # V4122AB-677
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EAST OF KATMANDU Tom Weir 1956 1st US ed Hardcover DJ Very Good
By: Weir, Tom
Price $19.99 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $30.01 (60%)
- Item # OP1627-959
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
JEAN-CLAUDE KILLY'S GUIDE TO SKIING: THE PROVEN TECHNIQUES OF AN OLYMPIC GOLD MEDAL WINNER Jean-Claude Killy and Honore Bonnet 1978 Hardcover Fine
By: Killy, Jean-Claude and Honore Bonnet
Price $4.99 ~ Regular $99.95, You Save $94.96 (95%)
- Item # OP6266-471
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
G.H.M ANNALES: GROUP DE HAUTE MONTAGNE SWITZERLAND
Price $10.00
- Item # JR254
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
OSTERREICHISCHER SCHILEHRPLAN [AUSTRIAN SKI CURRICULUM] 1956 Hardcover Fine
By: Austrian Professional Ski Instructors (Editors)
Price $6.99 ~ Regular $99.95, You Save $92.96 (93%)
- Item # OP6596-363
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
FORERUNNERS TO EVEREST: THE STORY OF THE TWO SWISS EXPEDITIONS OF 1952 Dittert, Chevalley, Lambert 1954 1st US ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine 2 Copies Available
By: Dittert, Rene, G. Chevalley, R. Lambert
Price $35.00 ~ Regular $45.00, You Save $10.00 (22%)
- Item # OP37A-9312
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
FORERUNNERS TO EVEREST: THE STORY OF THE TWO SWISS EXPEDITIONS OF 1952 Rene Dittert, Gabriel Chevalley, Raymond Lambert 1954 1st UK edition Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Ernst Reiss
By: Dittert, Rene, Gabriel Chevalley, Raymond Lambert
Price $149.95
- Item # OP2237AB-877
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MOUNTAIN WORLD 1953 Hardcover DJ Near Fine-Fine 3 Copies Available
By: Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research
Price $75.00
- Item # MW1953-3
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
AFTER EVEREST AN AUTOBIOGRAPHY Tenzing Norgay Sherpa 1st ed 1977 Hardcover DJ Fine
By: Tenzing Norgay Sherpa as told to Malcolm Barnes
Price $39.99 ~ Regular $50.00, You Save $10.01 (20%)
- Item # OP384-959
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
RECORD A L'HIMALAYA [WHITE FURY: GAURISANKAR AND CHO OYU] Raymond Lambert, Claude Kogan 1955 1st ed Softcover Wrappers Fine
By: Lambert, Raymond and Claude Kogan
Price $35.00 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $40.00 (53%)
- Item # OP264A-931
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
EVEREST THE UNCLIMBED RIDGE 1983 1st UK ed Hardcover DJ Fine SIGNED by Chris Bonington
By: Bonington, Chris and Charles Clarke
Price $65.00 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $10.00 (13%)
- Item # OP16A-866
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE WORLD AT THEIR FEET: NEW ZEALAND MOUNTAINEERS IN THE GREAT RANGES OF THE WORLD Philip Temple 1969 1st ed Hardcover DJ Fine
By: Temple, Philip
Price $39.99 ~ Regular $100.00, You Save $60.01 (60%)
- Item # OP243-443
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THIS MY VOYAGE Tom Longstaff 1951 1st UK or 2nd UK edition Hardcover DJ Fine 4 copies available
By: Longstaff, Tom
Price $19.99
- Item # OP1794C-8774
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
THE 1963 AMERICAN MOUNT EVEREST EXPEDITION SCIENCE IN AN EXTREME ENVIRONMENT Philip W. Clements 2018 Hardcover New
By: Clements, Philip W.
Price $34.95
- Item # BK4154-
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ALL FOURTEEN EIGHT-THOUSANDERS 1999 3rd ed Hardcover DJ New Multiple Copies Available SIGNED by Reinhold Messner
By: Messner, Reinhold
Price $69.99 ~ Regular $150.00, You Save $80.01 (53%)
- Item # BK1013-2888
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
IN THE THRONE ROOM OF THE MOUNTAIN GODS Galen Rowell 1977 1st ed Large Hardcover DJ Fine 2 copies available
By: Rowell, Galen
Price $39.99 ~ Regular $75.00, You Save $35.01 (47%)
- Item # OP1720-9422
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
MOUNTAIN MAGAZINE BACK ISSUES: #11, #12, #13, #15 as available. Price $25 each. This is not a set, order individual issues. NEW ISSUES ADDED
By: Mountain Magazine. Ken Wilson
Price $25.00
- Item # JR158B-902
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
ALL FOURTEEN EIGHT-THOUSANDERS 1988 1st US ed Hardcover DJ Near Fine SIGNED by Reinhold Messner
By: Messner, Reinhold
Price $129.99 ~ Regular $200.00, You Save $70.01 (35%)
- Item # BK1014E-288
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
K2: 8611M Charles Houston, Bob Bates, George Bell 1954 1st ed Softcover Fine
By: Houston, Charles, Bob Bates and George Bell
Price $119.99 ~ Regular $250.00, You Save $130.01 (52%)
- Item # OP250-443
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart
RISING: BECOMING THE FIRST NORTH AMERICAN WOMAN ON EVEREST Sharon Wood 2019 1st edition New Hardcover
By: Wood, Sharon
Price $24.95
- Item # BK4167-931
View Details
Add To Cart
Adding...
Added! Click To View Cart